MightyP

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have any good ideas on how to remove a nut if the stud is loose?

I installed the Ichiba wheel spacers last night and one of the studs came loose as I was torquing down the nut. It's tight enough to be safe, but obviously I need to replace the stud. Problem is, I can't get the nut to loosen with the stud just spinning.

I'd rather not have to drill/break the stud...

Thanks

EOIO3

I've always said that spacers are a bad idea...

That spacer is junk anyway - you're goning to have to pitch it anyway...drill it!

KidJustin

lefty loose, righty tighty

lol jk, sorry man no clue. if i find anything out i'll let you know

Scion202

hmmm

you sayin: "I've always said" indicating that you've told us forum folks and yet it says that you just barely joined and most of those post say nothing about spacers:

Join Date
12-29-2011
Total Posts
92
Scionlife Profile
EOIO3
First Name
<@¿@>



Bottom line is most everyone knows that you're 2tCornot2tC

so stop dodging legitimate questions and throwing up I-told-you-so's

EOIO3

LOL

I've always said...does not mean to you specifically...just that I've always said that.

Let it go…it’s getting annoying.

Oh and thanks for my statistics Юрий

Scion202

knowing your style of writing and tone, everything written by your new SL name screams 2tCornot2tC

and to answer your q, YES YOU SHOULD tC

EOIO3

I like it! Everybody here likes 2tC...

criminaltc

You're stud isn't "loose". Studs can't be loose??? Think about it. That doesn't make sense. What you did is you snapped it off. That is why it keeps spinning. You gotta watch your torque poundage. Don't crank that thing or you'll stretch the studs and snap them like you did this one. I'd replace all twenty just to be safe because they will all eventually snap like this one did if you over tightened them all. If it isn't snapped, raise the car and get behind the hub and hold the stud as you loosen it. You might need two people. Try that, otherwise you have a go a different route.

EOIO3

Paul,

Either the spacer was machined with stud bore too large or the material was too weak. You’ve got to reduce the torque required to remove the nut…Consumer Reports did testing on liquid wrenches and found that the best one (required the least amount of torque to remove a rusted bolt) was a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid – I’d use Ford type and not Dextron but was not mentioned what type in the article) and use an impact…air powered.

MightyP

iTrader: (1)

@Scion202: Don't pick fights in my thread.

@criminaltc: I didn't overtighten the stud. It's on a spacer I installed and I didn't have the chance to over tighten it. Thanks though.

@EOIO3: Interesting idea! I've really never heard of mixing the two. So if I'm interpreting what you're saying correctly... Mix 50/50 paint thinner/nail polish remover with ATF from say, Walmart? Then squirt it on the lug and go? Will that hurt the paint since the wheels are painted silver? (I'm not worried about the Plasti Dip)

MightyP

iTrader: (1)

I felt like I should really add this.

Posts like these are exactly why I love this forum. I've never heard of this before but I'm about ready to go to Walmart and make me a batch! A quick google search shows how much better this solution is than any of the lubricants for sale!

EOIO3

It might be called F-Type (or Type F) ATF and not "Ford"...but that is what the F stands for.

EOIO3

Don't use paint thinner! go to Home Depot or Lowes...they have all the acetone you need. Nail polish remover has oils and it might be MEK and not acetone. Acetone is needed as a penetrant...it has the smallest molecule. The acetone thins the ATF to cary it in between the nut and bolt.

I don't know about the paint...acetone will disolve a lot of stuff...be careful on the paint.

MightyP

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I found pure acetone. I'll give it a shot tonight.

MightyP

iTrader: (1)

Gave it a shot, but still didn't separate. Ironically enough, the nut spun much more easily than it had, but wasn't loosening.

Guess I'm going to a tire place tomorrow to have them break or drill the lug.

And the formula dissolves Plasti Dip like a champ! Couldn't tell with the lighting whether it dissolved the silver paint too or not.

EOIO3

Drill as big a hole as you can in the end of the lug nut and then put some of this juice in there…between the nut and the stud…that is where the juice needs to be. Not between the lug nut and the wheel.

EOIO3

Don't forget to blow the chips out of there when you are done drilling...they will bind too. Also, do you have an air impact? It should come off with an impact. I doubt you will be able to get it off by hand.

MightyP

iTrader: (1)

No, I don't have that size drill or an impact gun.

Druidiron

Personally? I am DAMN glad to have you back!

MightyP

iTrader: (1)

Found a brake shop just down the road that will remove it for me and just charge their hourly rate for actual hours worked. Sigh...