Alternator/power steering belt replacement
My belts have been squeaking for some time now. I just went and purchased new belts this evening. Before I get hand on are there any pointers to make this job any easier. And any tricks on getting the belts off. I watched a few videos on YouTube but they were pretty shotty and camera was all over the place. I appreciate the help and thanks in advance!!
the only thing I think of is getting at the lower alternator bolt is way easier reaching up from the bottom than trying to loosen it from the top.
also i think that lower bolt head is like super weak/the bolt gets seized up bad... mine is sorta wrecked and im like 98% sure i remember reading other people bolts were getting rounded so try and get a box end on it... the water pump pulley is kind of close, almost in the way, but its undoable
also i think that lower bolt head is like super weak/the bolt gets seized up bad... mine is sorta wrecked and im like 98% sure i remember reading other people bolts were getting rounded so try and get a box end on it... the water pump pulley is kind of close, almost in the way, but its undoable
When we changed the belts on my sons car, we used a krikit device to check the tension.
I was really surprised how tight the belts had to be to get the tension correct (??) and yes it did stop the squeaking
I was really surprised how tight the belts had to be to get the tension correct (??) and yes it did stop the squeaking
Hi, For belt noises are used the belt dressing/conditioning. Sometimes, depending on the cause of the squeak. Belt dressing is intended as a tool to help you maintain your belts. It’s not an easy fix for all squeaks. If your belt is slipping because the rubber is starting to dry out, then belt conditioner will stop the squeak by softening it and moisturizing it. If your belt is getting dried out, spray both sides with belt dressing and let it soak into the belt before spraying it again. Once you put the belt back on, the squeak will seem louder than before, but will start to go away as you drive the vehicle.
In my Scion xB 2004 that dressing spray never worked. So, because I get a cheap deal in e-bay for 2 belts, I replace them like 3 years ago. Yes, there must tensioned them, and check with your finger (like my old car mechanic). When one push the belt will just go 1/8" of a inch inside.
I miss my old car mechanic. He was just driving a car and do diagnostics "live" by listening to the car engine (engine behavior) and other noises.
In my Scion xB 2004 that dressing spray never worked. So, because I get a cheap deal in e-bay for 2 belts, I replace them like 3 years ago. Yes, there must tensioned them, and check with your finger (like my old car mechanic). When one push the belt will just go 1/8" of a inch inside.
I miss my old car mechanic. He was just driving a car and do diagnostics "live" by listening to the car engine (engine behavior) and other noises.
"Belt dressing' is another Band-Aid fix for a larger problem...if belts are dry, cracked, glazed, stretched, or worn beyond their useful life then they should be replaced and not slathered in some crap to 'hide' the noise.
And a Krikit, which you can order for about $5, is the correct way to check belt tension. Done at the points called out in the Service Manual I don't know about your mechanic but most people's fingers likely aren't as 'well-calibrated' as his.
And a Krikit, which you can order for about $5, is the correct way to check belt tension. Done at the points called out in the Service Manual I don't know about your mechanic but most people's fingers likely aren't as 'well-calibrated' as his.
Last edited by MileHightC; Apr 25, 2021 at 04:27 PM.
Krikit belt-tension gauge is popular in Porsche groups to replace factory $1500 gauge. Saves on guessing about cam timing-belt which can cost you $5k+ in repairs if belt lets go. NO ONE, can accurately determine belt-tension by just pushing on it. If you can push 1/8", I bet I can push it 2/8" or 3/8". What is real tension?
If your belt is squealing, measure tension 1st, might be easy fix. Next, if it still squeals under proper tension, just replace it. You're already there.
HINT: squirt PB-blaster on all nuts & bolts needing to be loosed and let sit overnight.
If your belt is squealing, measure tension 1st, might be easy fix. Next, if it still squeals under proper tension, just replace it. You're already there.
HINT: squirt PB-blaster on all nuts & bolts needing to be loosed and let sit overnight.
Hi, For belt noises are used the belt dressing/conditioning. Sometimes, depending on the cause of the squeak. Belt dressing is intended as a tool to help you maintain your belts. It’s not an easy fix for all squeaks. If your belt is slipping because the rubber is starting to dry out, then belt conditioner will stop the squeak by softening it and moisturizing it. If your belt is getting dried out, spray both sides with belt dressing and let it soak into the belt before spraying it again. Once you put the belt back on, the squeak will seem louder than before, but will start to go away as you drive the vehicle.
In my Scion xB 2004 that dressing spray never worked. So, because I get a cheap deal in e-bay for 2 belts, I replace them like 3 years ago. Yes, there must tensioned them, and check with your finger (like my old car mechanic). When one push the belt will just go 1/8" of a inch inside.
I miss my old car mechanic. He was just driving a car and do diagnostics "live" by listening to the car engine (engine behavior) and other noises.
In my Scion xB 2004 that dressing spray never worked. So, because I get a cheap deal in e-bay for 2 belts, I replace them like 3 years ago. Yes, there must tensioned them, and check with your finger (like my old car mechanic). When one push the belt will just go 1/8" of a inch inside.
I miss my old car mechanic. He was just driving a car and do diagnostics "live" by listening to the car engine (engine behavior) and other noises.
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