Dioxicide

Hi all, I have a 2004 Xa automatic. I recently got my car serviced at the dealer cause I've been hearing this sorta clunk noise after I take my foot off the brake to back up or go into drive after backing up. They said it was gear lash and to not worry about it but it just started happening and i don't like it. Then, after I get the car back I noticed that the engine is now vibrating more noticeably when I put it in reverse? It does the same thing when in drive stopped at idle but not while driving. These issues are driving me nuts cause apparently the Toyota dealership didn't notice them or didn't care? Any help? The mileage is around 134000. ThanksIt's my first time posting and I don't know much about vehicles so please pardon me if it sounds dumb.

18TTony

Inspect motor mounts and transmission mounts.

RichBinAZ

Probably not the transmission (gear lash). The clunk can be motor mounts or just the brake pads shifting a bit in the caliper.
For engine vibes, If the engine rpm is lower than normal, it is likely carbon deposits in the IAC valve.
Easiest fix is to shift to neutral at stop lights etc, just make sure you put it back in D before stomping on the throttle.

Dioxicide

Well....I had all my mounts checked and they said they were fine. Now it's 30° outside and the sound is even louder. Kinda at my wits end. Everybody that looks at it says everything is fine but it sure sounds like something is broken with that loud clunking noise when I first start backing up or first start going forward. It's fine when I'm going down the road tho. I'm the type of guy that doesn't like weird noises coming from his car. 😏
Any other thoughts? I was doing research online but I'm just shooting in the dark. Coming up with anything from torque converter to tie rods? Urgh

armygreenxb

Same dealership or new mechanic?

When you're in D at a red light and you shift into N, does the vibration stop?

Dioxicide

Same Toyota dealership. Yes.... When I go into N the vibration stops. Thanks for your reply. 👍

armygreenxb

Here's the deal - this is extremely common on these car at this age. The dealership knows this and the solution will not fix the issue 100%. That brings the risk of comebacks and headaches for the dealership. It is your mounts. You need to replace all three. If you're paying a mechanic to do this, it may be very expensive. If you choose to use aftermarket mounts, you risk early failure. So keep that in mind before moving forward. I replaced my mounts (and alternator around the same time) and I no longer have vibration issues at a stop. It will not fix the problem 100%, but you'll see a dramatic reduction in vibration and no vibrations inside. I do believe there is an issue with the torque converters in these causing the intense shaking, so that's why it's not a 100% fix for the shakes. Your dealership may not be completely lying.

If that's your only issue, your car is mechanically fine. Dealership would have diagnosed a bad IAC valve easily, but as RichBinAZ suggested, shifting into N at red lights is the easiest fix for this. There are some videos on YouTube regarding this issue and some of my older posts talk about my experience with this same issue.

RichBinAZ

The IAC (Idle Air Control) valve can be working fine and not throw a code, but it can become slightly contaminated with carbon deposits, which the computer can't detect. Cleaning these out brings the idle speed back up and the vibes go away. It's surprising how little carbon is needed in the IAC to create an issue.
Where does the carbon come from? Isn't it breathing fresh air??
Yes, but also it breathes a bit of oil vapor from the engine air vent and after a long time, it builds up.
I have tried bumping the idle speed up a bit, but that doesn't really work for long.

We had the dealer do the rear mount for us as I couldn't figure a safe way to remove and install it.
If you get the mounts swapped, do them all including the transmission mounts. Have them chuck the old ones in the trunk so you can look at them for signs of cracking and breaking.
Receiving the old parts also makes sure they change them... Oh, is my lack of trust in mechanics showing?? Sorry

armygreenxb

Yes, if you have an issue with your idle, check the IAC valve first. OP didn't mention that and dealership didn't notice low idle speeds, so I'm assuming that this is not the problem. This was not my problem neither.

I had to bring mine in for the rear mount as well. That sucked.