DIY: Auto Transmission Drain and Fill (1st Gen xB)
Note: Keep in mind that we are only draining a fraction of the fluid in the transmission. Most of the fluid is held where the torque converter and other components.
This is just a simple drain and fill. I'm not responsible for damages that might occur. Please do at your own discretion. *Note: This DIY is using the recommended OEM Toyota ATF Type T-IV fluid. So I'm going to teach you how to drain your old auto tranny fluid and put in fresh, new fluid. I got tired of not finding a DIY / How to in any of the Scion forums, so I decided to tackle this. Please don't lecture me about flushing, "all of the fluid is inside the transmission" stuff. I have already mentioned that this is a drain and fill. This is for the automatic 1st gen xB, possibly the xA as well. Tools Required: -10mm allen key -jack -blocks of wood to keep car from moving -3 to 4 bottles of Toyota ATF type T-IV or matching type ATF fluid -drain plug washer -empty drain pan -a thin fluid filler Step 1: Before jacking the car up or anything, purchase 3-4 bottles of Toyota ATF Type T-IV, which is recommended for this DIY & can found at your local Toyota dealership. If you find synthetic ATF fluid, please find one that matches or exceeds Toyota's. I decided to stick w/ OEM goodness. Purchase a new drain plug washer as well. Make sure its for the transmission drain plug, NOT THE MOTOR OIL. They are different in size *Toyota ATF Type T-IV fluid http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...6781185c49.jpg *Transmission drain plug washer http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...3d4773ece0.jpg Step 2: Make sure your car is cool. You don't want super hot fluid getting on you. Secure your car from moving around. Jack your car up if its lowered and/or needed. You can use Jack stands to feel safer. Step 3: If you don't have one, purchase a 10mm Allen key wherever tools at sold. I bought my at Sears since I needed a set. http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...f0ef4bd8d8.jpg Step 4: Locate the auto transmission drain plug, which is located on the driver side of the vehicle. Place your drain pan under as the fluid quickly starts to drain. Might want to use some gloves for this. Fluid will pour like a waterfall once the plug is removed. Remove drain plug let it drain for 15-30mins or whenever it stops dripping http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...b92519003e.jpg Step 5: Place new washer on plug and place the plug back on the car. Step 6: Open hood if you have not done it already. Locate the auto transmission dipstick which is located next to the thottle body. You'll be using this to fill your fluid into the tranny. Place your fluid filler and pour your ATF fluid. Fill the amount that was drained. You can measure this if you drain pan has a measurer or you can do it my way, pour the old fluid into the empty ATF cans you just used. Auto transmission dipstick http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...48f16839a6.jpg Fluid filler http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...6d87cde10c.jpg Step 7: Once you are done filling your transmission, go inside the car and place the key into the ACC position. Press the brakes/engage parking brake and switch gears from P-R-N-D-2-L back and forth. Do it anywhere from 2-your choice of times. Turn the car on and do the same procedure. It might seem unnecessary, but its better to be safe. When on, make sure your car reaches operating temperature (or when the blue "cold" temp indicator turns off) Step 8: Turn off vehicle and check auto transmission dipstick. You know when its full of fluid when it reaches the last indented indicator on the dipstick. Add fluid if necessary. Step 9: You have completed the auto transmission drain and fill. Clean up and take your old transmission fluid to your local Toyota dealership or your auto parts store for proper displacement. Further questions, PM me. -Your friend Teabox aka Robert __________________ |
nice diy, whats the point of doing this and how often should it be done?
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according to owners here, they say change the fluid every 20k or once you reach 40k miles. Factory says not to worry about ATF fluid until the 100k mark. This is just extra preventative maintenance. The fluid I drain was dark, almost black. The gear changes do feel a bit smoother. =D
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Really at 20k? I was under the impression that you didn't need to change atf until over 80k.
Nice write-up though. |
Nice writeup. Good idea to reiterate the drain method and not the flush. I'm sure you would have caught flack for saying "flush & fill".
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The Scion scheduled service interval lists replacing the automatic transmission fluid every 60k miles if used for towing or other heavy load use. Otherwise, just inspect it for change in color / odor and leave it in until it needs it. Inspection should be done every 30k miles.
http://scionlife.org/Scion_Docs/2006_Scion_SMG.pdf For aftermarket synthetic, the standard is Toyota type T-IV. The following ATF fluids are listed on the manufactur's site as being compatible. I have not used any so I do not know if they make a difference. Amsoil - Amsoil Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid Redline Redline ATF Comparison Datasheet - Redline D4 ATF - Redline High-Temp ATF Royal Purple - Royal Purple Max ATF Mobil 1 - Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF Valvoline - Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF Personally I'll probably be using the Redline High-Temp since I'm turbo'd, I'm guessing there'sa lot of heat even with the oil cooler. |
oh, so this can help with some shift shock? i notice from 3rd to 4th on my auto, the shift shock is noticeable when compared to 1st to 2nd.
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That was one of the reasons why i did this. At 40k miles, I was getting this "jump" or shock from 3 to 4. It went away.
But ya, inspecting(not changing) every 30k is wise. I just wanted to do something easy on the car, so I did this. Unnecessary, maybe. |
It gave you a chance to do theis great write-up. It's always nice to have pictures of where the bolts are and what tools are needed.
Just two things to clarify. In the Toyota repair manual, the drain gasket is listed as non-reuseable, but the plug itself can be reused. Also, use a jack stand, do not rely on the jack itself to hold unless it comes with a safety lock bar. Most dont. Walmart has them for $10, a small price to pay for not having a car fall on your head. I'll be doing this in another 10k I think. Anyone know a good place to buy the Redline fluid? |
Originally Posted by spr0k3t
(Post 3516495)
Nice writeup. Good idea to reiterate the drain method and not the flush. I'm sure you would have caught flack for saying "flush & fill".
The equipment made by BG Co. is usually used by dealers to replace all the transmission fluid, which cannot be done with a simple draining. And because of the complete fluid replacement, it is frequently called a flush. But is it not a forced flush, as the transmission supplies the pressure with its own pump. The BG unit is a box on wheels, containing two fluid compartments separated by a diaphragm. The compartments have hoses that connect to the transmission's cooler hoses to the radiator. The first compartment begins empty and the second compartment begins filled with new fluid equal to the capacity of the transmission. The engine is started and the transmission's internal pump pushes the old fluid into the first compartment. The old fluid coming in pushes on the diaphragm, which pushes the new fluid out into the transmission. In a few minutes, the first compartment is full of old fluid and the second compartment is empty. All the old fluid in the transmission has been completely replaced with new fluid. And all the transmission has done is pump its fluid around as usual. Then the engine is stopped and the transmission cooling hoses are reconnected to the radiator. |
That's a flush and fill done right. I've seen horror stories where people used external contraptions to flush without a fill, then fill after complete flush.
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It is a good time to put in a magnetic drain plug.
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Great writeup, dude!
I'm gonna be doing this soon probably. I'm at 43k. I'm also going to sticky this, it'd be nice to build up a tech section again. |
dealer or mechanics price to do this with the BG system?
I,m in Santa Barbara, CA. Anyone know the price to have this proper flush (non force) done. I know the Toyota ATF is expensive.
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I know what u mean. I would like to know to.
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I just changed the regular oil, it helped, but my trans has been neglected for 36,000 miles. It's hanging in there, not the smoothest it should be. 8)
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anyone know how many quarts it takes for a full flush and fill? my uncle's shop has the machine that replaces it as it pulls it out, but i've never done it myself this way, i've only ever done it the way above, since my uncle just recently let me know i could use the shop when i needed. :biggrin:
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Excellent write up for the simple drain and fill. I did find the plug replacement torque in the online manual - 36 ft lbs.
I also noticed that there is a filter hiding under the sump pan and it is replaceable. There are also a couple of magnets in there to collect any chips. You can also clean the inside bottom of the pan which may have a light coating of non-magnetic clutch sediment. (Features - Scion tech - at the top of this page - look under valve body replacement) This is a little higher tech level. Don't touch the valve body though, unless you really know what you are doing. I used to do this change on our plymouth acclaim and never had a tranny issue. EDIT Aug 2010 Just did a drain and filter change on the XB1. If you want to take that extra step go here to see what it takes. |
Great write up, it's always good to have pics as well. Im going to end up doing this myself after winter im at 58,000 miles on my Xb1 i would rather be safe than sorry.
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can't you turn the car on while draining to fling the extra fluid out of the torque converter?
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