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Header Install 1NZ-FE

Old 10-13-2004, 05:46 AM
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Default Header Install 1NZ-FE

Headers Install
(Echofan Brian DIY pages)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is an installation of the El prototypes steel headers for the Echo. Also usable for Scion's with 1NZ-FE engine.

You will need: a socket wrench w/10mm 12mm and 14mm, socket extensions (3" ,2 x 6" and/or 10"), and a way to get under the car (a lift, jack stands, ramps,,,,),
Headers ordered at Elprototypes.com ($200) and a new gasket to go between the head and the headers ($22)

-First you might want a cool engine. Then remove the negative battery cable. you'll have to remove the engine cover with the socket wrench and 10mm socket

-Then remove the 4 bolts that hold the heat shield on the exhaust manifold w/10mm socket. They can be reached from the top.

-Then remove the heat shield.

-Remove the 5 bolts/nuts on the top of the manifold w/12mm socket. 2 of the 5 bolts/nuts (the ones on the bottom) that hold the manifold to the engine will need to be reached by using the socket extensions- the 3" extension and 12mm socket.
They are torqued pretty well so use some penetrating oil (like WD-40) on the threads. Heat sheild brackets.

-Once the top is unbolted, Jack up the car and use jack stands for safety (please!) make sure the parking brake is on and put a chock block behind one of them. You have to really torque some stuff under there so be as precautious as possible.

and crawl under the car and unbolt the 2 spring loaded bolts holding the manifold to the cat.(catalytic converter) using socket extensions if you can't reach (which you probably won't) and 14mm socket.

Be careful not to damage the wires of the O2 sensor. These bolts have spring tensioners so it might take some crank'n, bang'n, WD-40 but they'll come out. If they are tough use a torque wrench or breaker bar.

-Now the only thing holding on to the manifold is the support bracket. Unbolt that 14mm bolt and remove the manifold.

-Be careful not to damage the gasket on the cyl. head end if you're re-using it. I re-used the one on my echo.
Let's take a look at the old manifold. The pipe's diameter's are squished at the collector into 4 pie shaped openings. Yuck!

-The ports on the headers may not be perfect circles, but they are larger than the manifolds. I opened and rounded mine out.

-You'll need the donut gasket for the cat. to the new headers

-I got my Echo's headers second-hand ($75). They weren't ceramic coated so I sanded off rust and painted them with POR-20 high temp coating. Some day I'll do header wraps with silicone sealer. DIY? you bet.

-The headers I put on my xA are also 2nd hand ($100), but are ceramic coated. I put a new gasket on them.

-The installation is the opposite of the removal.
Put the gaskets on: Hard donut gasket to the catalytic converter on the new headers collecter

and the new flat gasket on the cylinder head bolts.

-Move the headers down in place on the cat.

and onto the cyl. head bolts. Put the 2 outer nuts on to keep them from sliding off, but leave them loose so you can put the 14mm support bracket bolt through to hold the headers in place.. Don't tighten it down yet though.

-Next add the rest of the bolts to the top of the header. Tighten hand tight while jiggleing the headers a little to get a flat seat on the gasket.
(It's easier to put the spring bolts back in from above while pulling the cat. towards the headers,) then crawl under and tighten them evenly 14mm socket.)
It is imortant you alternate and tighten evenly so you squeeze the donut gasket in right!!. You're time should be rewarded with an absence of exhaust leaks. They need 46ft lbs torque.

-Lastly, Tighten the top header bolts 12mm socket. Use several passes and tighten them evenly as well. 20 ft lbs torque. Then tighten the support bracket bolt.

-I left my car on jack stands and fired it up. The POR paint smoked for a while then I checked for leaks. Found none. The wd-40 will smoke off too, so you have to run the engine a little before checking for leaks.
Then re-adjustments will have to wait for the engine to cool a bit.

Estimated time spent: 2 hours

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Last edited by MR_LUV; 04-25-2019 at 04:03 AM. Reason: Awarded 10 Yr Badge
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Old 10-13-2004, 12:54 PM
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Awesome! Adding this to the Tech Section. I'll moved it to the FAQ section in a week or so.

Thanks!
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Old 10-13-2004, 09:59 PM
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Drove it around today. No big difference to feel on headers alone, but sounds good. No leaks, no more smoke (from wd-40) but [email protected] are my muscles and neck sore. Those spring loaded bolts are no joke.
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Old 10-13-2004, 10:30 PM
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These are on an auto or manual? Still trying to decide to buy them for my wife's car and just asking around for personal experiences. Great How-To BTW. :D
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Old 10-13-2004, 10:57 PM
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You are the man!!!!!!! Thanks for sharing pics!!!!!
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Old 10-13-2004, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by wgeee7478
These are on an auto or manual? Still trying to decide to buy them for my wife's car and just asking around for personal experiences. Great How-To BTW. :D
2004 xA A/T 12k miles. Some of the pics are from my 2002 echo A/T install.
I'ld recommed these only if you plan on freeing up the flow all the way through. (i.e. intake+headers+exhaust)
Got an intake+headers on my echo and I like it. 0-60 is 8.7 as per my g-tech. Was around 9 stock. Still need exhaust, but I'm planning time for the scion now.
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Old 10-13-2004, 11:32 PM
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thanks for the info.... :D
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Old 10-13-2004, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JdMBboFSD
thanks for the info.... :D
Yeah ditto, thanks for the info man. I have a Injen SR installed already, so I think this would pretty much sum it up for now. Wife doesn't want the loud exhaust so I'm holding off on those for now.
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Old 10-14-2004, 03:58 AM
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go megan racing it's basically the same as all the others and is only like 130 brand new shipped. stainless steel instead of ceramic but no biggie. i can feel it. but thats just me.
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Old 10-22-2004, 06:19 PM
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Forgot this pic. Don't expect the flanges of the headers and the cat. to meet flush. There will be a gap that you can see the gasket in.
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Old 11-05-2004, 03:24 AM
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excellent write up. I would tighten the bolts on the header where it bolts to the cylinder head from the inside out....
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Old 11-30-2004, 04:36 AM
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im doing my headers tommorrow. i got dc headers and hope for a smooth installation .
thanks for the informative write up . i no longer have any fears .

thanks
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Old 11-30-2004, 04:37 AM
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how many miles did you have when you changed up the headers?
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Old 11-30-2004, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BrianxB
excellent write up. I would tighten the bolts on the header where it bolt
s to the cylinder head from the inside out....
not everybody is a mechanic ..............
ask no questions
get no answers
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Old 11-30-2004, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by davematic
how many miles did you have when you changed up the headers?
Had about 12,000 miles on the xA.

Starting to tighten bolts at the middle is a good idea to keep the flange in place and the gasket even.
I just prefer using several passes tightening the bolts little by little and evenly. It's tedious but makes me feel better about getting a good fit.
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Old 12-01-2004, 04:37 AM
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got it installed tonite. way stoked ,easy install thanks for the info. hhmmmmmmmmm i wonder whats next????????
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Old 01-19-2009, 05:59 PM
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OK I know this is an old thread...but this is a real helpful post.


I believe I just purchased a hard donut gasket too.

This will work for my 1st gen xB, correct?

It fits perfectly.


It is much less $$$$.

Athough, I did not realize it would be different when I got it from ROCKAUTO?
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Old 03-24-2009, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Echo_B
Drove it around today. No big difference to feel on headers alone, but sounds good. No leaks, no more smoke (from wd-40) but [email protected] are my muscles and neck sore. Those spring loaded bolts are no joke.
TRUTH.
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Old 03-24-2009, 01:11 AM
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I had to drive 2 hours and the car was hot. So, maybe that is why the bolts came out fine. The oem spring bolts seemed stuborn and a little rusty.
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