Mass Airflow Sensor getting too much air ?!?!?
 

I never knew too much air could be a bad thing.....
PLEASE HELP?!?!?!?
I just installed a Volant Intake and due to the scoop located in the front grill and the opening in my custom EZ-BAKED front grill, at 60+ MPH my xB will Bogg out as if it's getting to much air or trying to compensate and drowding the motor with fuel.

Has anyone heard of this issue when installing Intakes.
I love the power gains I get from 0-60 but it seems like right at 60-65 only if I "get on it" the car just boggs out, It still accelerates, but at a much different pace.:doh::cry::doh:PLEASE HELP

Yep , Have heard of it before. Some aftermarket intakes come with a little " air dam " about 4" infront of the MAF to cause turbulance. I had 2 intakes same company made both , both same part number , first one had the problem you are discribing ( didn't have the little piece inside) , second with the piece works like a charm.

Look inside and see if you can see a little projection infront of the MAF location. If not try and figure how to put one in ( not talking about the infamous Turbonator). Although one may help in your case if you find a need for it.

I wonder if they sell that peice as a part that can be self intalled. or if any intakes have that as an actual part not loike a molded peice within the tube, but an actual part. Pretty sur mine is smooth.

Which intake do you have with that peice so I can do some research...???

K&N Typhoon , it is welded in. Stock air box , it is a piece that looks like a screen. It just needs to disrupt the air so that the MAF sensor isn't in a direct air flow current.
You might be able to fashion one for your out of just about anything , plastic-metal , I would think even a popsickle stick could work. Just needs to block a little of the direct current or flow of air, but not blocking air flow, sort of like a spoiler on the back of our cars.

I'll look and see if I can get a pic of what mine looks like.

thanks

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...PICT0067-1.jpg

Inside Typhoon , notice half moon shape?

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...PICT0067-1.jpg

Stock Air box inside screen

MAF actually measures a part of the total air stream and is calibrated to the specific diameter of the intake duct. It is important to have the uniform air flow across the whole diameter so that MAF always measures, say 10% of total air under all conditions (ECU will calculate total air amount based on the MAF calibration settings). That velocity stack with the mesh screen inside the stock airbox is designed to fight unwanted air turbulence and provide even flow inside the duct. Some aftermarket intakes may create problems with uneven MAF readings, so it may be the case with yours.

Our MAFs are really thermo-resistors , they measure the amount of air by the decrease in temperature of the air flowing past the sensor , now when you figure in wind-chill, which is how they work, then you can disrupt the air flow, increasing the temp ( by reducing the wind-chill ).
Now his problem seems to be the increase of wind-chill on the sensor by using a Ram Air System of sorts ( had one on my Road Runner and my '69 GTO) if a way was found to increase the temp of the sensor ( reducing wind-chill) it would correct the "problem". This is done with the screen and the ribs( they are the bends) in a stock air box, or the "half moon shaped" piece inside of the K&N Typhoon.
A small amount of disturbance is all that would be needed.

Wind chill pertains to human body- not electronics. There is always "wind" in the intake (flow of air), besides the MAF has a built in Temperature Sensor to calculate the air mass correctly based on the heat loss of the sensing element due to the chilling effect of the passing air.

Wind chill - It measures the effect of wind on air temperature. The wind chill temperature is usually lower than the air temperature.(Applies to other things in the wind as well)

And I hope there is always "wind" in the intake when our engines are running, other wise it would not be running.

MAF ( we have a wire type in our cars)A hot wire mass airflow sensor determines the mass of air flowing into the engine’s air intake system.
When air flows past the wire, the wire cools, decreasing its resistance, which in turn allows more current to flow through the circuit. As more current flows, the wire’s temperature increases until the resistance reaches equilibrium again. The amount of current required to maintain the wire’s temperature is directly proportional to the mass of air flowing past the wire. The integrated electronic circuit converts the measurement of current into a voltage signal which is sent to the ECU.

Our MAF IS The Temperature Sensor :icon_mrgreen:

So is that not what I said? Or did WE read it wrong?

Now if I read the OP's original problem , it is caused by the amout of air ( using the Ram Air Effect ) being forced over the MAF Sensor. If he could disrupt the air a little, just a little, over the MAFSensor, it may solve his problem. Of course he could always block off the hole in the grill and not use the Ram Air type intake ( but why ?)

Sometimes I forget that non-engineers do understand the language and find a need to talk simplier to explain things.

Now back to the problem at hand..............

OP's problem has nothing to do with the lowered intake temperature, wind chill factor or supercharging due to ram effect.

OK, then what is the problem? You read his post?

BAMFXB: Mass Airflow Sensor getting too much air ?!?!?

MAF can not be "getting" too much air. It can have incorrect reading of whatever air is going into the motor due to few factors, like turbulence or different intake duct diameter from stock, for example. It would be nice to find out whether the MAF is measuring too much or too little (more likely) by looking at the ECU data. Scangauge is a great tool for something like that: it shows MAF sensor reading, O2 sensor and fuel trim (rich or lean command to injectors). Without this basic info everything is a guess. May be ECU will eventually learn changed conditions caused by Volant, may be it will throw a fault code which will give some idea about what's happening. Or it could be some problem with installation.

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One way to make MAF sensor think that there is more air going through than it actually is, is to make a small restriction in the tube right at the level where the sensor seats. Very small half peanut size piece of plastic or rubber will make a difference in reading. To prevent O2 sensor signal from compensating a small variable resistor (easyer to dial in) can be used. But... it has been done on older Bosch LH-jetronic to compensate for non-stock hot camshafts and i am not shure how much effort it would take to make this work on todays systems.
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HMMMMMMM...............:eyebrow:

I believe it may be a combination of both turbulance and the ram air effect causing the sensor to tell the computer HEY IM GETTING A LOT OF AIR SCHEDULE MORE FUEL. And yes I do keep getting the an error that in a nut shell is stating my car is running lean.
So hear is why I think it may be both. The only time the car has a lagged effect from the air to fuel ratio is when I am at 60+ this make me think that the air vent is having a ram sort of effect. however The error code that comes and goes every 200 mi or so only popps up at lower speeds making me think the MAS is getting a bit of turbulence. I just need to get of mny duff and try that lil trick you suggested and maybe another option.
The box that the intake sits in, the one that the air tube in the front is facing the air into. Well it has a side hole that is capped off since I don't have the side scoop no I was thinking of creating a sort of flap that would hang with a smidgen of spring tention so that if and when I get up to 60+mph it might relieve that sort of pressure. Not sure if that would help or hinder???? let me know what you think.

Can't view pictures
 

Trying to view these pictures. Help?

Those are from 2011. Likely not hosted anymore, and Photobucket changed their format about a year ago and broke all their old links. There's a trick where you can add ~original to the end of the url, but those aren't coming up with it. Probably removed by the user. Might help to try googling pics of this specific intake system.