Scionlife.com - Motor Mount Replacement?

I did it by myself. I bought all 3 mounts off eBay and they were from Taiwan in the box. (I have an automatic transmission) I put jack stands as far ahead as I could and as high as I could to level the car out. I already found out you have to take the 3 bolts out of the passenger side motor mount not the two connected to the motor. to replace the generator or the water pump then jack up the engine with a 4 x 4 under the engine one side on the oil pan and the other side on the back of the engine next to the transmission pan. I did the same thing yesterday but took all 5 bolts out to change the motor mount I jacked the engine up again but this time I was changing the motor mounts. I backed the car rear wheels on two ramps then set the e-brake and jacked up each side and set the toward the front just behind the jacking points with jack stands as high as I could get them which was still not quite as high as the back. The passenger side was the easiest as I took the #10 bolt out so I could move the tubing easier so I could pull the motor mount out thru the top.

New went in as easy as the old one came out then I tightened the bolts up and this morning I moved to the motor mount under the battery and plastic tray under the battery unfortunately the plate under the plastic tray was welded to the frame. the front transmission mount came out pretty easy I loosened the long bolt that went thru the inner fender well and there was a cover on 3 sides with another hole for the bolt to go thru the hole in the motor mount rubber and the nut was larger than the bolt and inside the fender well and the bolt was inside the engine compartment. There was an engine bolt that had the negative battery cable attached to it that stopped the transmission bolt from coming all the way out so I bent the cable end down over that small bolt so I could get the transmission bolt all the way out. (I am the first owner) I intended to put the bolt back thru the center of the rubber from inside the fender weld after taking the two bottom bolts on the transmission mount it dropped out pretty easy. Then I put the new transmission mount up inside the covered area and put the bolt back thru the rubber part of the mount and started the nut onto the bolt on the inside of engine compartment instead of the fender weld.

I tried to jack the engine up higher but it did not work so I dropped the jack down under the engine and moved it over to the transmission pan and lifted the transmission end up till I was able to start the two bolts thru the bottom of the transmission mount and then jacked the engine up some more and finished retightening the two bottom mount bolts then I took the 7/8 box end wrench and braced it inside the engine compartment and tightened the bolt from inside the fender weld. l did not have to take the tires and wheels off either side. I climbed under the car to look for the back transmission mount and it was on top of the cros smember and there were 3 bolts to connect the transmission mount to the cross member and I could see the rubber inside from underneath and used a extendable mirror from underneath the car and behind the engine from the top I did not see any tears or bad cracks so I decided not to do it but I still have the third mount if it does not work with the two I replaced. So far so good. It was not as hard as I was expecting.

Even the back one looks easy if I put a jack under both sides of the cross member and drop them down then set the transmission mount onto the cross member and put the center bolt in and jack the cross member back up.

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