Anyone have the skinny on this pulley? What does it wiegh?

Price is nice @ $85 & I've been pleased with the OBX Headers so I'm leaning toward this crank pulley as well.

I've read the other threads concerning the other pulley brands. I'm looking for info on this particular product please.

 

I'm not a fan of underdrive crank pulley's if that's the only pulley you have.

NST has an underdrive pulley for the crank, and an overdrive pulley for the alternator.

 

dont get an underdriven pulley period. but if you must get the overdrive like heyallex and then your just spendin more than just buyin a lightweight . so ya. if your concerned about price use the classifieds is my best advice they dont get to much wear and tear so its perrty good deal to just get one used.

 

I understand the possible negatives of an underdriven pulley for folks w/ sytems...but I drive constanly @ high rpm & have no plans to install more than a dvd player (indash). And the dvd player is a big maybe. I'll get my SC before I get the dvd anyway.

Why do you not like underdriven pulleys?

Would a better alternator & battery balance an underdriven pulley?

 

I just don't like how it makes EVERYTHING slower.

that means water pump, alternator, etc. Whatever runs on the accessory belt, will be slowed down. plus, you don't see any major gains over a lightened pulley, which are completely safe to run.

 

Ya you cant forget that everything is also slowed not just alternator. ture to what heyalex is sayin, its just not worth the risk.

 

ooooo never heard anybody talk about a slowed down waterpump before...

 

Well if you think about it, if the alternator is affected, then the other accessories which rely on the crank are also.

Air Conditioning, etc.

 

Mmm, I have had the unorthodox pulley for a while and cero issues.....plus u can definitely feel something..... not much but something. Also good when u have others mods.

Maybe an xB is to heavy to feel the difference but on the good old and light Yaris.....

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Let me clear this up. Our motors are internally ballanced, so unlike some motors a few years back, there is no harmonic balancer in our stock crank pulley. The aftermarket pullies are, or SHOULD be the same exact diameter but much lighter, helping with engine response and hp/tq. As for your accessory pullies, you shoud NEVER go smaller. They should be the same diameter to ensure your pumps, alternators, etc all work to factory specs. If you see a pulley that is smaller or larger than stock, dont get it. Those idiots who made it dont know what they are doing then.

 

Ok, let's see if I can give you a little bit of clarification here. First of all, the information I am about to share with you is from Mike over at www.NonStopTuning.com who can be reached on AIM at the screen name NSTonAIM. NST does nothing but build pulleys for a living so they should know what they are doing with pulleys.

There are two benefits to be had with aftermarket crank pulleys:

1. NST crank pulleys are built from aluminum instead of the steel used by Toyota. Weight reduction anywhere on an engine, especially the rotating assembly leads to much better throttle response and allows the engine to rev much easier. This has a great affect on the butt dyno.

2. NST crank pulleys are light weight and also underdrive some accessories. Slowing down the car's accessories reduces what is called "parasitic loss." Accessories actually rob some of the engine's HP to perform their job. Quality underdrive crank pulleys (NST) slow down the accessories by a small enough amount so that their performance does not suffer but enough to make a noticeable performance difference.

Real companies spend a lot of money in R&D to know where to draw this fine line. The NST crank pulley is only a 10% underdrive pulley. This means you won't even notice the change in your accessories. The human body can not distinguish the difference between the A/C blowing at 50 degrees vs. 45 degrees.

Furthermore, some owners love to throw A LOT of audio/video equipment into their cars and notice that their stock alternators can not keep up with these demands, yes even with stock crank pulleys. Some of you big stereo guys know what I'm talking about here. This is why NST has designed an OVERDRIVE alternator pulley to help these people. Just because you use an underdrive crank pulley does not mean you MUST buy the alternator pulley. Plenty of people in the tC forums run just the NST crank pulley and never have any complaints.

Real companies like NST do real R&D and other companies build products that they don't need to educate you about, so they just take the easy way. Or they do copy-cat engineering, like OBX
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Really if you want to underdrive your accessories, go for it. I've tried that years and ago and its nothing but a nightmare. Youll reduce the performance on your accessories at what cost? 0.5-1whp? I dont think so. Im not a fan of OBX. I certainly would not recommend any of their products a few years ago. They have some good stuff and bad stuff. Youre right though, ....they do NO R&D at all. One thing you should know is that the factories that they get their stuff from are factories that make the REAL stuff from other companies that might be more reputable. If the diameter is the same as stock and it is a well made piece then go for it. None of you will benefit over an NST or an OBX pulley. Its a circular piece of aluminum no matter what someone tells you.

"Real companies like NST do real R&D"
There really isnt much r&d to do buddy. Its a pulley. You go lighter in weight and you will make power. Weight them, measure them against any other aftermarket pulley and there is nothing special. OBX is a real company. All those other cheap knock off brands are real companies. They dont care what we think. Its all about sales and they are making it.

 

Who makes just a lightweight crank pully for our engines? I don't like the idea of an underdrive pulley either.

 

Everyone makes great points for both sides of the fence...

If I were to go with underdriven pulley; for a trial period, are there any possible detraments to trying it out? If it turned out to be a hassle can't I just remove the underdriven pulley & go with another option at a later date?

 

You can always change the pulley later on if you dont want an underdriven. I can promise you that you will NOT feel a power difference on an underdriven vs a normal lightweight pulley. I dyno 3-4 cars a DAY. Any notice in power is mental I can assure you. The problem I have seen with underdriven pullies are the accessories dont operate to its full potential. I had a drop in voltage because my alternator was not giving out the same charge as it normally would get per revolution on a normal size pulley. Dont let people fool you guys. Generally anything less than 10whp, you wont notice anything. Take afetermarket exhausts for example. Most people think their cars are faster because it not sounds more aggressive. On the dyno, many of them dont do jack squat.

 

I see your point about the lightwieght vs Underdiven
...as far as larger exhausts I've heard that they actually decrease hp if not used w/ Turbo or SCs.

 

well as someone asked, perrin makes a very nice lightweight non underdriven pulley, so do some other people, but no sure who except zpi. also as far as exhausts go i am under the impression that large block v8 and that sort benifit from removing exhaust gasess as fast as possible from the engine. but for our smaller 4s that it is important to keep a little back pressure. if i am incorrect someone may correct me.

 

Its a common misconception that larger is better. There is something very important called "gas velocity". Think of it as a garden hose with the water turned part way on. There is a certain velocity or pressure the water is coming out of the hose. If you increase the hose size, your water pressure will drop unless you increase water perssure. Thats why we see more cars with FI benefit from larger exhausts. Now, if the piping is too small, it will in turn hurt the flow. The art of tuning is finding that ballance for what suits our needs

 

Decided after much research to go with the Perrin pulley. Being that I intend to SC it (eventually) the Perrin seemed to be the best choice.

...now I have to wait impatiently for it to arrive!

I've done the I/H/E all myself with the help of my GF. I'm assuming I can get the pulley on with the help of my ace mechanic girlfriend...safe to assume?

What's up with the Perrin Fuel Rail? Does it really add modest HP or is that only when paired with the larger fuel injectors?

 

you'll love the pulley.

took me 45 min to do.