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Scion xA Timing Chain..

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Old Jan 27, 2021 | 06:04 PM
  #21  
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Hi, Please PM (Private Message) me and I can provide you the Info.

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Last edited by MR_LUV; Jan 27, 2021 at 06:17 PM. Reason: Forum Rules
Old Jan 27, 2021 | 11:02 PM
  #22  
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Yeah that car is on the other side of the country. Thank you for the offer though. I appreciate it. Before I put this engine back together with the new gaskets, ect.
I'm going to post some pictures. Any info will be great thanks. Basically can I get away with not taking it into a head shop. lol





Last edited by MR_LUV; Jan 28, 2021 at 03:26 AM.
Old Jan 28, 2021 | 04:51 AM
  #23  
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I'm wondering if the one I have it pitted like that... ill have to check later.
I think at the very least you should take a wire wheel to it to get all the crusties off... but the head I dunno. I think the best way would having it shaved to get rid of the pitting. I guess it's like a choice of time, money and how long you'll think the car will be around for.

I'm kind of wondering if you should try and flush out the water jacket and get all the deposits out too i wouldn't be surprised if that dust could wreck a water pump
Old Jan 28, 2021 | 12:41 PM
  #24  
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Thank you for the info. I decided to take the head to the shop and have it resurfaced and cleaned. I have coolant coming out of the exhaust pipe. Thats what Im assuming is all the white stuff in the block. Whats the best way to get rid of that stuff? I also want to clean the tops of all the pistons heads too.
Old Jan 28, 2021 | 01:37 PM
  #25  
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I used a wire wheel in a drill to clean the surfaces. I got a set of various ones from Harbor Freight. They worked great for cleaning off the front cover of old RTV sealer too

Did you put any additive in the coolant? Or use non Asian vehicle coolant? I didn't see any of those deposits in mine. Anyways I would try getting a flat brush or some
other thin thing to scrap it away and then just take out the thermostat/pump and flush it out with a hose.

You're already in this deep you could take the pistons and rods out and clean the ring grooves lol replacement rings are cheap. You'd have like a brand new motor!

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Last edited by MR_LUV; Jan 28, 2021 at 05:52 PM.
Old Jan 28, 2021 | 03:04 PM
  #26  
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Thank you! Thats a great idea. I might as well. I dont want to make any mistakes and have problems after puting it all back together. Ill clean everything as best I can and replace the rings. How cheap though? Cuz Im on a tight budget. Lol especially now that I have to take the head to a shop and have it resurfaced.
Old Jan 28, 2021 | 03:07 PM
  #27  
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Oh I forgot to mention. I didnt know I was sappssed to use only Asian vehicle coolant. What kind do you suggest I get?
Old Jan 28, 2021 | 04:04 PM
  #28  
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Can't go wrong with Toyota coolant but Zerex also makes an 'Asian' coolant...biggest difference is likely that the Toyota coolant is pink and the Zerex I'm using is blue.
Old Jan 28, 2021 | 09:47 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by DannyFrost
Thank you! Thats a great idea. I might as well. I dont want to make any mistakes and have problems after puting it all back together.
I'll clean everything as best I can and replace the rings. How cheap though? Cuz Im on a tight budget. Lol especially now that I have to take the head to a shop and have it resurfaced.
I saw a bunch for 35 dollars on eBay. I think the Asian coolant has certain corrosion inhibitors. I think cause our motors are mostly aluminum. I have the Prestone now brand but whatever one that says for Asian vehicle works.

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Last edited by MR_LUV; Jan 28, 2021 at 11:02 PM.
Old Jan 28, 2021 | 10:05 PM
  #30  
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Ok
Old Jan 29, 2021 | 05:29 PM
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I'm guessing the white stuff you see inside the cylinder block is calcium. A result of using non-distilled water. Not sure how you would get rid of that though.
In a tea kettle, I would use white vinegar and boil it a few times and it goes away.
Toyota sells a concentrated and pre-diluted coolant. If you get the concentrate (of any brand) be sure to only use distilled water to dilute it with. It's about $1 per gallon at the grocery store. That way, you won't be getting any calcium issues. - like flakes breaking off and blocking holes.
The cylinder head hole in the oil section - not a problem. If any of the aluminum is thin and flaky, I would remove it before it breaks off on it's own. Be sure to remove any shavings.

Cylinder head face damage looks like a bit of casting porosity. You could probably just fill that with a bit of epoxy, using wax paper and a flat surface on top of the paper to level it out.
Are there any other holes that could cause the head gasket to blow?
Any loose bolts when you took the head bolts out?
Be sure to follow the tightening pattern on the head bolts when you are re-assembling

Good luck
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