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Old 03-19-2005, 06:51 AM   #21
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would a 9v battery work to charge the unit before hook-up?
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Old 03-20-2005, 02:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chimmy3
would a 9v battery work to charge the unit before hook-up?
yes, but it might drain the 9v battery
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Old 03-27-2005, 12:14 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong
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Originally Posted by Chimmy3
would a 9v battery work to charge the unit before hook-up?
yes, but it might drain the 9v battery
hi kong, newbies here,did u got my message?
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Old 03-27-2005, 06:50 PM   #24
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No, I didn't get it. Please resend.
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Old 03-28-2005, 02:30 PM   #25
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Default real VS ,not jus CAps

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No, I didn't get it. Please resend.
ok, here goes..frm wat i can c there, u merely use caps to stabilize d voltage, i tink tat doesnt work well, wat does a caps do? it increase d power factor,stored,discharge,nchargin,filter pulses,to stabilize it?i dun tink so,frm wat i go thru,3 forums so far,most diy volt stab merely using CAPS only.
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Old 03-28-2005, 07:38 PM   #26
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Dude, you can't use regulator. You will loose power. For example, if your car need 3A of current and you have a 12V regulator, you will lose (14-12)*3=6W of power at the regulator. If there is no ventilation around the heatsink, the regulator will heat up very quickly and fail.

The cap works as the powe supply filter, it reduces the voltage ripple so that the overall electric system has less noise. Many part in the car relies on electrical sensor, and noise cause error in sensor readings -> error in fuel/air ratio. The cap indirectly reduce error from noise coupling through power supply.
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Old 03-29-2005, 03:43 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong
Dude, you can't use regulator. You will loose power. For example, if your car need 3A of current and you have a 12V regulator, you will lose (14-12)*3=6W of power at the regulator. If there is no ventilation around the heatsink, the regulator will heat up very quickly and fail.

The cap works as the powe supply filter, it reduces the voltage ripple so that the overall electric system has less noise. Many part in the car relies on electrical sensor, and noise cause error in sensor readings -> error in fuel/air ratio. The cap indirectly reduce error from noise coupling through power supply.
hi kong, i saw ur post which u diy by using some caps only, may i know d values of each caps ur using?thks
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Old 03-29-2005, 04:05 PM   #28
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10,000uF for the electrolytic caps and 100uF for the ceramic caps.
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Old 03-30-2005, 12:34 PM   #29
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OK, I'm not a electrical engineer, but I would love to know what current four little electrolytic capacitors can supply that a full-size lead-acid starting battery cannot. I wasn't aware of any great current time-lag, or internal resistance losses in such a battery.
It only help supplying transient current for less than <100ms, you will not notice it, but the computer will. It mostly acts as a filter. In electronic stuff, steady power supply in very important. Ripple in power supply also cause instability in some amplifier (I mean sensor stuffs, not audio). Let's say.. it makes a better environment for electronic systems to operate.

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Also, wouldn't it be easier to use one larger capacitor instead of several smaller caps in parallel?
Yes, and No. Typicall, a large cap has smaller ESR (equivalent series resistance) and has higher ripple current, which is good . It is bulkly and difficult to package. It's frequency response is limited. Also, its price (capacity/$) is more expensive than the small capacitor.

I use 16V caps because I can get higher capacitor values. It is more compact and cheaper ;) . Yes, the battery is running at 14V and It won't go above that, unless there is something wrong with the alternator and the battery will be damaged anyway. I was first thinking about using the 25V caps, then I find justifications to use the 16V caps instead. The capacitor can withstand voltage ripple of more than 16V, but it cannot withstand "steady" voltage of more than 16V, so it should be safe.

The main reason I make this myself is that I want to know if it works without spending too much money on it.
kong, i tink by using a 25V caps is much better , consider u start ur engine, ever tink of the surge? it might be more than 16v .
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Old 03-31-2005, 12:20 AM   #30
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when you start the engine, the voltage actually drop slightly. You can see that the lights are dimmer when you start the car.
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Old 04-03-2005, 12:25 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong
when you start the engine, the voltage actually drop slightly. You can see that the lights are dimmer when you start the car.
the light is dimmer coz the engine is drawing a very high current at tat moment. i am not too sure, but i tink its more or less surge
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Old 04-07-2005, 01:16 PM   #32
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Default any1 here got a better circuitary which i can diy??

erm... any1 haf any circuitary which not only use caps to stabilize but other components as well?
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Old 04-07-2005, 01:32 PM   #33
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I have some flux capacitors that I'm letting go real cheap.
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Old 04-13-2005, 12:18 PM   #34
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Default re: DIY VS failure(kanasai)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong
10,000uF for the electrolytic caps and 100uF for the ceramic caps.
hi kong, i haf jus diy using ur idea,well it seems tat , there is no such 100uF ceramic caps in the market., i wonder if u haf mix up wit the caps types.oh ya, about the DIy, i use 100 uf electrolytic caps n it doesnt work at all, when i turn on d head lamps it was ok but when i switch on the signal light, the light blinks follow the signal light, why is tat so, anyway the voltage also drops, not consistent at all, wel,,, as i cited b4, i dun tink merely CAPS will do all the wonders as a V.S. any advice ???
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Old 04-13-2005, 04:35 PM   #35
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^^^^ Get off the pipe!
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:35 PM   #36
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Quote:
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^^^^ Get off the pipe!
it seems like dis V.S diy forum, goin to shut down sooner or later... untils ome1 *** up wit a better idea..
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Old 04-21-2005, 04:20 PM   #37
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Default Re: re: DIY VS failure(kanasai)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ufo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong
10,000uF for the electrolytic caps and 100uF for the ceramic caps.
hi kong, i haf jus diy using ur idea,well it seems tat , there is no such 100uF ceramic caps in the market., i wonder if u haf mix up wit the caps types.oh ya, about the DIy, i use 100 uf electrolytic caps n it doesnt work at all, when i turn on d head lamps it was ok but when i switch on the signal light, the light blinks follow the signal light, why is tat so, anyway the voltage also drops, not consistent at all, wel,,, as i cited b4, i dun tink merely CAPS will do all the wonders as a V.S. any advice ???
Sorry for late reply.

The electrolytic caps might have been broken. Did you have the right polarity? The electolytic cap has positive and negative terminals. If you switch the terminal and connect to battery, it will die. When it is broken, it make a short connection to your battery. It could have been the ceramic capacitor, make sure that it is rated 16V or above.

I bought caps from Digikey.com . you can also use several ceramic capacitors combined in parallel.

I have been using it for 4 months now and it works just fine. I made several sets for my friends and no one has problem with it.

If you need help immediately, pm me. I haven't visit the forum for quite a while.

If you guys are around DC, I have a set unused. We can meet and try it out.
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Old 04-22-2005, 01:13 PM   #38
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Default Re: re: DIY VS failure(kanasai)

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Originally Posted by Kong
Quote:
Originally Posted by ufo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong
10,000uF for the electrolytic caps and 100uF for the ceramic caps.
hi kong, i haf jus diy using ur idea,well it seems tat , there is no such 100uF ceramic caps in the market., i wonder if u haf mix up wit the caps types.oh ya, about the DIy, i use 100 uf electrolytic caps n it doesnt work at all, when i turn on d head lamps it was ok but when i switch on the signal light, the light blinks follow the signal light, why is tat so, anyway the voltage also drops, not consistent at all, wel,,, as i cited b4, i dun tink merely CAPS will do all the wonders as a V.S. any advice ???
Sorry for late reply.

The electrolytic caps might have been broken. Did you have the right polarity? The electolytic cap has positive and negative terminals. If you switch the terminal and connect to battery, it will die. When it is broken, it make a short connection to your battery. It could have been the ceramic capacitor, make sure that it is rated 16V or above.

I bought caps from Digikey.com . you can also use several ceramic capacitors combined in parallel.

I have been using it for 4 months now and it works just fine. I made several sets for my friends and no one has problem with it.

If you need help immediately, pm me. I haven't visit the forum for quite a while.

If you guys are around DC, I have a set unused. We can meet and try it out.
hi kong, my diy v.s also include a fuse, so if anything does happen , the fuse will blow 1st, i did check d capacitor after i connect it, looks ok, no leaking n no visible damage caps at all, i tink it might b the car problem, some leakage ... howw do i post my V.S??[img][/img]
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Old 04-22-2005, 05:19 PM   #39
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Default Re: re: DIY VS failure(kanasai)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ufo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong
Quote:
Originally Posted by ufo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong
10,000uF for the electrolytic caps and 100uF for the ceramic caps.
hi kong, i haf jus diy using ur idea,well it seems tat , there is no such 100uF ceramic caps in the market., i wonder if u haf mix up wit the caps types.oh ya, about the DIy, i use 100 uf electrolytic caps n it doesnt work at all, when i turn on d head lamps it was ok but when i switch on the signal light, the light blinks follow the signal light, why is tat so, anyway the voltage also drops, not consistent at all, wel,,, as i cited b4, i dun tink merely CAPS will do all the wonders as a V.S. any advice ???
Sorry for late reply.

The electrolytic caps might have been broken. Did you have the right polarity? The electolytic cap has positive and negative terminals. If you switch the terminal and connect to battery, it will die. When it is broken, it make a short connection to your battery. It could have been the ceramic capacitor, make sure that it is rated 16V or above.

I bought caps from Digikey.com . you can also use several ceramic capacitors combined in parallel.

I have been using it for 4 months now and it works just fine. I made several sets for my friends and no one has problem with it.

If you need help immediately, pm me. I haven't visit the forum for quite a while.

If you guys are around DC, I have a set unused. We can meet and try it out.
hi kong, my diy v.s also include a fuse, so if anything does happen , the fuse will blow 1st, i did check d capacitor after i connect it, looks ok, no leaking n no visible damage caps at all, i tink it might b the car problem, some leakage ... howw do i post my V.S??[img][/img]
use [img] url of your image [/img] .

Is anybody else tried thing? matchbox and ufo are the only two person I know that make sets for their car.
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Old 05-03-2005, 01:13 PM   #40
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Default vs

wow, almost forgot this forum, booted my PC then forgotten this forum :D, anyway, i haf some suggestion KONG, use a better CAPS can improve our VS, suggestion , a better cap RUBYCON BLACKGATE. its expensive thou but am sure this caps works well. anyway kong .. dun haf the 100 uF ceramic caps u mentions, the market doesnt even haf this type of caps, thks anyway
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