jct

when i changed my plugs my OE's were gapped at .044 also

Tomas

In thinking about that, Johnny, I believe the engines are actually assembled at a different factory, then shipped to the "body" assembly factories for all the different models that used that same engine.

That makes me wonder if maybe when the xA/xB took off with more demand than was expected, a number of engines originally intended for the JDM were reassigned to the US market, and those that showed up in xA/xB models here with the wider JDM gaps were actually originally intended for their domestic market.

THAT makes me wonder of there were any other minor differences between the JDM and US versions of that engine. :D

Guess I need to try to dig up some specs for the bB or ist 1.5l engines, eh?

jct

at idle the ign. hovers around 8 degrgee atdc... crusing speeds i haven't checked yet

frogbox

Sent you a list of a few other helpful things, oh yeah forgot to add rpm at cruise and idel.
Thanx

frogbox

Antone else want to send the info I need? Got a few , but need a few more to really get some stats.

thanx to those that have responded so far.

Tomas

Here's your initial report, Froggie, with the engine warmed up, at idle, transmission in neutral, HVAC off, lights off, sound system off, outside temp ~50ºF.

I'll do some other readings in the near future.

frogbox

Thanx Tomas . I am looking at some pretty interesting data. We all may be surprised at what I am learning and finding out.

Tomas

YouTube is currently processing a couple minutes of video showing Vanilla's SGII at cold start and cruise.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-sN0zA9h-0&fmt=18

These are average figures - I've seen both better and worse under very similar conditions.

I figured it was easier to show it this way instead of trying to explain verbally.

Enjoy!

jct

i've never seen my ign timing go btdc while running its always been atdc...

Tomas

It usually only goes negative (retard) when it's cold and going downhill - I live in very hilly country - my driveway drops about 120 feet in altitude to the street. Also keep in mind it's an automatic, not a manual transmission.

KentuckyRob

So, I have a 2006 xB with 100,000 miles on it and decided it's time to change the plugs that came with it. I opened the hood and could not find the plugs, but a youtube video set me straight pretty quick.

And this thread gave me what I need to know. Looks like I can get the .044 irridiums and be good for another 100,000.

BTW, I blew a top coil on my 2001 Chrysler 300m at 120,000 miles with the original plugs. I think Thomas' comment about the large gap risking blowing coils is real.

Thanks for the info, guys!

inquiring

Hi BB2nr-I have a Scion Xb 2008 and 2009 both due for spark plug changes at 85K miles each. Can you recommend a name brand spark plug that I can install that will improve gas mileage more than the factory plugs that came with the Xb's we bought brand new? I think you referred to "bB" plug replacement but I'm not sure to what you referred, I am very disappointed with the gas mileage our Xb's get now with the factory plugs-thanks to you for any suggestion in this area.

Jay

Jiminla

So.....I DID read the entire 7 pages. I had a 2006 automatic. it got 30 mpg on a 50 mile round trip work trip, 16 of which was freeway at 75-80 mph. Got that mileage all day long, and is now at the 106K mile mark. The plugs I pulled out of it at 80K were worn to something greater than .044, don't remember the number. The plugs we put in it (don't remember if they were platinum or iridium) were gapped narrower (probably .032?) and I remember gapping them at .044, likely because the first thread I encountered probably said ".044".

Through a lucky CL ad I lucked into another 2006, one owner, documentation, etc with leather, fog lights, the spoked aluminum wheels, etc. My buddy really liked the first one, we struck a deal, he took the old one I grabbed the other one.

This second one has been stuck at 24-25 mpg regardless of driving, a rough idle and way less throttle response than the first one. The original plugs I pulled out of this second one were worn to like .035, which A) led me to not question the setting of .032 on the new Iridiums, and B) lends credence to the idea that these cars might have come with two different plug gaps from the factory.

I just ordered the -11's, they'll be here Monday. I was going to pull these and regap them, but afraid of breaking one after reading this thread. Must have gotten lucky the last time. lol I'll let you know the outcome, though it sounds like I'm already the last one to know.

melonxB

I had the guys at Pep Boys check the gap when I bought my iridiums and they were off. I had them help me re-gap them but they seemed pretty rough. I'm not sure how much the tips can handle, but my car runs well.

I'm hoping new plugs will solve both the mpg and throttle issues. Nice find with one owner with documentation- I bought from someone similar. That will save you a lot of headache and anxiety over what has been done and what needs to be done.

How do you like the leather seats?

Jiminla

They look great, original owner took very good care, I think they might have a little more bolster in them over the standard seats. Feels like it. Living in SoCal though, they're a pain in the butt, literally, when the sun shines on them! The leather wrapped steering wheel that goes with them is nice. The rim is much thicker, and you get the radio controls on the wheel.

OldRodRunner

Why reset the ECU for a plug change??????????????

skrappi

Read through this . Yes, all seven pages. Very good information. I have been wrestling with the gap question for years. I have read all manner of opinions each with their own convincing arguments.

So here's a statement and a question; Mine is an 06 xB. First owner. Last year I ran into that nasty Trac Control VSC light issue. All plugs were worn to the nub. Replaced with NGK iridium gap at .032. Ran OK for about a year then started idling rough. Pulled the plugs and they looked 'OK' The points were a little worn but nothing excessive. No fouling. Replaced anyway with same NGK gap at .035. Ran like s**t. VSC lights and everything. Code reader came back P0302 - #2 misfire. Figured coil pack so I ordered four. Before doing anything I read up some more and found this string. So what the heck, why not? Set gap at .044. Reset the ECUM. Fired it up and at first it ran like it was misfiring again. Started idling smooth after 30 seconds. Took her for a spin and ran great. Figured the ECU caught up with the change in gap. So for now going with .044.

My rig has 345k. I drive her conservatively and change the oil and other fluids religiously. I'm on my second battery and have only replaced the Alternator and Thermostat. Other than that she's run like a top. So, that being said, could my coil packs being 12 years old now and this high of mileage be wearing out and causing issues with the plugs or has it been simply a gap issue? I understand the smaller gap for cars based on the theory they aren't maintained well but considering I baby mine, why would the .032 and then .035 gap seemingly be either the source or catalyst
of a problem? Coil pack issue? Perhaps something altogether different?

MileHightC

Replied in your other thread but if you already have four new coil packs I'd say put them in...and typically a plug gap isn't going to cause issues with rough idling unless it's opened up to the point of getting 'blown out'. Common on forced induction vehicles with too large a plug gap but going from a .035 to a .044 shouldn't make any noticeable difference on an NA vehicle.

And the ECM shouldn't have to 're-learn' a plug gap.

stickman

Prius used different configuration of 1NZ FE motor. Hence 1NZ FXE. Different stroke, compression, and HP. Requiring different spark for more efficient burn. Also engine VIN code was different XB was VIN code "T" verses "B" for the 1NZ FXE.

Feeleap

WHY RESETING ECU?