My install... too much to list in a header (56k beware)
 

Well, I'm reluctant to post this since I know that everyone here thrives on instant gratification and pictures. Neither of which you will get out of this thread. But, at least this will give me a place to update everyone on this, as well as, give me that little extra push I need to finish.

>>>> Please be aware that I'm not here to debate parts/suppliers/manufacturers. I am interested in seeing what advances Turbo Toyota's products make, and will continue to watch RollHard put down more impressive numbers. And anyone else that is on, or comes into, the scene I eagerly await hearing from. I love the advances being made for our rides. I want the best for the community as a whole. I happen to have been working with ZPI since about four months before I bought my Scion. So, I am only going to post what MY experience is with what I chose to do to MY car. Why I chose these things is not this topic. Speaking of... on to what this topic is. <<<<

My Build :pray:

The following is my parts list that I currently have. (ie: not waiting on... they are here in my garage)

I have a stock BCP 2005 XB with a 5 speed and almost 18k miles. (The victim)
ZPI Turbo Kit - read note directly above
Koyo Aluminum Race Radiator
Perrin lightened pulley
Perrin silicone hose kit
Perrin oil catch can
Perrin Fuel Rail
DC Sports 4-1 ceramic header
Greddy Evo-2 exhaust
Fidanza 2-piece aluminum flywheel
SPEC Stage 2+ clutch
CORSPORT shift bushings
Modified "Type - R" shifter housing with TWM short shifter
Mikochu Uber ground wire kit :)
AutoMeter Nexus Gauges and DPSS shift light
Viper 791 remote start (please don't start talking about remote starting a manual here. Read the other threads)

I'm leaving all of the suspension/interior/ice stuff off of this. Since I am in the F/I section I tried to just mention the parts that affect this. Two things I should mention since in the past F/I has affected this: I am going to fill my motor mounts myself and I have ordered a new Axle/Hub system. Contact The Driveshaft Shop in Greensboro, NC for more information on their development with these.

Now, i will be doing all of this work myself in my "free time" which is between my full time job, my business I started, seeing my girlfriend/friends/family, and relaxing. Well, almost all. I will be taking the XB to the trans. shop when the driveshafts come in to have the clutch/flywheel/bushings/halfshafts installed. After that I will be driving it to break all that in. They say 500 miles with no hard launches/downshifts... so I guess I'll spend my lunchbreaks everyday on the road.

Once the break-in period is done then it's on to the build. I will update this at that time. I may lay out all of the goods and take a pic or two to post as well for a teaser, but ... you've all seen everything I mentioned... well, except the hubs/axles maybe. We'll see.

Feel free to ask me on topic questions or make requests of what you'd like to know. Thanks!

watching....

veeeeeery interesting.

Jason that looks like a very good list.. Only things I would recomend/change.. Go with a full turbo back exhaust 2.5" to get the most flow possible, an AEM wideband and to help add to your filled motor mounts an engine damper (wait for Ingalls version to come out, but if you have to go with the Weapon R)..

Later on add some meth/water injection, rods and pistons and you will have a beast on your hands..

Thanks for the info Billy. I planned on the exhaust being "turbo back" when installed, but you've been there... any advice. Couldn't I run a custom size piece between the turbo and where the cat used to be? :0p

I wish I had known about the AEM wideband idea before I dropped $1600 on gauges, but that's a done deal now. With the software management it's (the gauges) coming with there shouldn't be any added tuning issues. For a more detailed list: I got the Nexus Boost, Wideband, Oil Pressure, Water Temp. and Fuel Temp.

I am waiting on the Ingalls damper to come out (wow... $$$) and it's something that I failed to include in my profile. But, check the profile for the stage II info. We think a lot alike. ;)

On a side note... anyone got any ideas about a return fuel system or if it's even needed at this stage? Thanks!

Well if your getting the ZPI kit.. you will have to remove the factory cat.. But I guess you could go from the flange off the back of the turbo to a2.5'' piping and add a 2.5" high flow cat and then from the cat go 2.5" all the way back.

As for the return line... they are great to have so you can supply enough fuel to all the injectors, but it is not a must if you are on a budget.. It's always somthing you can add on later along with a new fuel rail.

Well, I've decided to just go with a 2.5" from the flange to the exhaust. I'm not running a cat. I live in SC ;0p

I've got the fuel rail... just don't know what all I need to do to make the return fuel system and no one seems to sell a kit. All I read on here is people complaining about the restriction of our stock fuel reg. and not any suggestions on getting around it. That's why I inquired about it.

If you don't mind, I may have to pick your brain a little during install time.

just a quick question... why do you have a dc header with a turbo kit? do the xB kits bolt up to regular headers?

The ZPI kit was designed to allow for aftermarket header usage rather than just a turbo manifold.

Duhhhhh... Harrison.... :P

Jason.. a fuel return system is not that hard to do.. it will be a little bit harder because you will have to peice the kit together yourself vs.. there already being a kit.. Here is a how to from the SRT Forums... your wont be exactly the same, but you get the general idea from it..

But basically it is.. a fuel line from the end of fuel rail to a fuel pressure regulator, out to fuel filler.. Tap a vac line for a boost signal for fuel pressure regulator and plug factory FPR..

This is the fill tube itself. We were supplied with a straight fitting but we used one of our own 90 degree elbow fittings instead. It made it much easier to fit up in there.
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...efillthing.jpg

This is the return line going from the fuel tank and up towards the engine
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...rdstherear.jpg

self explainatory...
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1.../carlength.jpg

This was my little idea. Drilled 2 holes in the crossmember to secure it ontop of that lip that hangs off. Nothing can get to it from below which is nice. This week i'm gonna get some transmission heat shield stuff and cover the line to keep the heat away from it from the exhaust.
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...rossmember.jpg

the fuel line getting fed up and over the tranny ::update:: Be aware that routing the fuel line this way may interfere with the shifter linkage. What i did to avoid this was drill 2 separate holes through the edge of the battery tray and using zip ties to pull the fuel line up to the battery tray. This allows safe passage up and over the shift linkage. PM me with any questions.
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...overtranny.jpg

The regulator!
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1.../regulator.jpg


The finished product
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...tenginebay.jpg

I love you! :bow: In a strickly car guy kinda way.

Now, do you have any idea how to completely bypass the static in tank regulator?

Other than that I've got a great understanding now thanks to you. I appreciate it as always.

:love: :rofl: :rofl:
I beleive you have to block it off with a plate.. im not 100% sure on that but I beleive that is what I have read before... Hit up Simplyscion (Vito)... He had a return line on his xB, he will send you in the right direction... Mine is easy to do on my car, the FPR is on the outside of the tank, you pop it off fill it with some water weld and bam your done... :rofl:

I also did the return line on mine. Vito and I basically did the same setup. Neither of us really figured out how to bypass it. I rammed a screwdriver (kinda ghetto) into it and moved stuff around which somehow gave me an extra 5psi. I am thinking that maybe (this hasnt been done I dont think) I can fabricate a plug, sealed with an oring as the factory regulator, that will allow the bypass of it. But I havent had the time to check into this yet.

Yea Stu and I had identical setups...I believe that if you get the properly sized ball bearing to fit in the spot where the in tank regulator goes it will solve the static FP problem...as we all found out the hard way back in the day the pump will not flow fuel without the FPR in place...now like I said, as long as theres something in there, your good to go, hence a ball bearing.

Thanks for the advice everyone on this fuel setup. As far as a ball bearing... do you mean the kind you would put in say... a skateboard wheel? I am not sure I really understand how that assembly works in the first place, but assuming it's a static (non moving) part, the new one would have to seat in the assembly area and offer a bigger opening than the previous I'm guessing. I studied the Repair Manual in the Tech Section (page 11-19) and it didn't help with me understanding the dynamics of this component.

I also saw a post in the past on SL that mentioned having to dremel some part of the new FP down to get it to fit. Any word on that?

What I'm getting from this, however, is that I need to purchase a Walbro gs341 255 lph FP, an adjustable FPR of some type like Billy's Aeromotive or a SARD, new tubing and fitings/clamps/t's/vacuum hose/etc.

I contacted the transmission shop and it seems I will have to wait two weeks to get in there. But, it's ok. The Axle/hubs won't be here until beg./mid. of next week anyway. Hopefully I can get some pics up this weekend.

WooHoo! The hub/axle assemblies are here and they are NICE. I'll try to get some pics of that soon as well, but didn't have my camera with me at the time. I do have some teaser pics of things you could go online and see, but I'm posting them anyway. They are below.

I'm still confused about this fuel setup. I've decided not to run a return. But, if I upgrade the pump and put a new FPR on and leave the static in-tank FPR like it is, I won't notice any change right? I looked at LastLook's gallery images for inspiration and it just confused me more. Seems he ran a return system with the new FPR on that side. So... I guess I'll be stumped until I pull my own and actually get my hands dirty.

Anyways... on to the goods:

https://i124.photobucket.com/albums/...l/DSCF0180.jpg
Overview of everything laid out.

https://i124.photobucket.com/albums/...l/DSCF0182.jpg
Guages... hoses... pully

https://i124.photobucket.com/albums/...l/DSCF0185.jpg
Turbo... header... oil pump

More coming soon. I hope...

On a side note, can someone tell me how to edit the title of this topic (or have a mod do it) to warn 56k'ers? Thanks.

jdlong, I am looking for a "nihonjing kanojo" as well. Let me know where you find her.

Nihonjin kanojo boshu-chu