davidward

I just installed turbo kit...... and before i could take it down to the tuning show i think it spun a rod. I was wondering does anyone have any pictures of info on how to remove the time chain.. i was boosting 9 pounds at 6900 rpm with the ticking noise started.

DeiselFuel2o2

wow 6900 rpm! that is way past redline man. You might have had bent a rod.

Some guy here ran 9psi and bent a rod. 7psi is kind of conservative but it helps the engine not blow when you floor it.

You gotta do a tear down man...it might take a week or two depending on if your doing it by yourself, how much money you have, and your knowledge on engines.

The ticking sounds like rod knock.

Sry to hear man. More people will chime in give it a day or two.

lastlookcustoms

It could be a bunch of things that went wrong to create the noise. You are just going to have to rip the motor apart and see what the problem is. If you want to pull the motor and ship it to us, we can build that baby up for you. Seriously though, what did you expect to happen taking it up to that RPM without a proper tune?

davidward

OK i looked into it a little bit more..... Its not a bent valve or anything to do with the valves i think.. I took the small oil pan off and there is small chunks of aluminum in the oil. i think they are parts from a rod bearing. I need some help thou i cant get the crank case/ upper oil pan off to see the connecting rods. I removed all bolts. I was wondering if there is a couple bolts holding it on on the transmission side. Mine is an auto. Can you remove the lower crank case/ oil pan without removing the transmission??

lastlookcustoms

You have to drop the front subframe or pull the motor. I'm also pretty sure that you do have to remove the tranny.

davidward

ok i got the upper crank shaft off.. I found a total engine break down online. I did not spin a rod bearing. every think looks good on the lower end. Since its apart im giong to buy forced pistons and rods and a crank... I still dont know where that chunk of aluminum came from that i found in the oil pan. The only place i can guess is that i bent a vavle and it hit the top of the head...

davidward

latest update. I got the head off and pulled all the pistons out.. the number one piston bent and twisted. because it was so bent it was hitting the crankshaft causeing the noise and teh metal pieces off the piston in the oil pan

draxcaliber

wth? you boosted your car, and first thing you do is over rev it without even a tune on it? thats your first problem right there.

davidward

yep... drazcaliber your right on the spot....... i was testing the turbo out.... i got a bad turbo from teh start.. the ball bears was going out causing the sound and lol and the waste gate was stuck wide open with a boost controler installed at 2 psi

lastlookcustoms

regardless if you had a bad turbo or not, you dont go boosting it to 9psi past redline without a tune!

DeiselFuel2o2

Just get a new block for 450 and save yourself the headache.

If you really want just get 2 blocks for 900 or make a deal to get em for 800 since you are getting two, and run it at 8psi. Wait for one engine to blow and replace it after that. *psi with a good tune and not over-revved should handle atleast 20k at full boost all the time. Now you could prolly do like 50k at 9psi if you just push it on track days.

So if that dosnt sound appealing, get a new block with fewer miles than the one you have (I would be worries about that chunk of aluminium (correct spelling lol) and just get a new block, run penzoil platinum with the bigger sized toyota oil filter, get forged rods, get lower compression pistons, maybe get your cams shaved if you wanna run higher rpms and GET A GOOD TUNE!

thats all the advise I can give you so far lol

davidward

um yeah how i was supposed to know it was going to boost up 9 psi... I had the boost controller set low so i can slowly crank it to 6 psi.

davidward

but its all good. i bought internals so i will be good and shipped the turbo back to the company to check it out.

lastlookcustoms

Maybe you should invest in a boost gauge.... And a wideband....

Jan06xB

SO did it really screem for the few seconds before it broke or WHAT????

vettereddie

Just wow, I'm sure you know don't boost on a budget, and don't go high in the RPM band without a tune.

if you need some help with the engine tear down, see my tutorial:
http://www.clubxb.com/forums/f14/diy...ild-27971.html

JSosa

6900 rpm!!! balsy!!! I've been running at 7.5psi for well over a year and haven't had any problems yet. Since your upgrading your internals you will be able to boost 12, 15 maybe even 18psi with a correct tune. HAVE FUN!

DeiselFuel2o2

12psi with better internals?

Thats just sick, unfair, and awesome.

Davidward I would get a new block because of one thing.

That chunk of aluminium you found in the oil pan. That is bad. A chunk of anything from the engine means a weaker spot in terms of heat/stress/and thickness.

If you feel comfortable go for it, but I would be needing high amounts of Valium every time I drove a car with a missing chunk lol.

Jan06xB

I wonder why the rev limiter didn't prevent that over rev . . . the xB does have a rev limiter doesn't it? And just what was your right foot doing at that high an rpm??? I guess with the waste gate stuck it would still be screeming even with your foot off the gas.

DeiselFuel2o2

I have realized that if you put the clutch in and still have a little throttle input it will over rev just a tad. Maybe with the clutch in and all that momentum in the motor it breaks the rev limit?

Thats the only reason I can see...and yea the wastegate being closed could of just overpressured the intake keeping that TB open henceforth over-reving the engine in mid shift...maybe thats what happened lol.

You would think the BOV would of released the pressure when letting off the gas, but like I said a little throttle input left on the accelerator pedal the engine over rev's a tad. And that would of not activated the BOV...hmmm

in good regards,

Regis