How did you get the other pillers off with the seatbelt array?

 

how do i get the front door speakers out. they arent put in with screws. its like a screw sized pin with a hole in it???

 

Your post was a great help. I had to replace a mirror after a misshap and you gave me what I needed to know to pull the door panel

Thanks

 

I wish some one would do this same thing with the xA

 

nice thanks 4 the info. i need to do this to.vibration is real bad

 

just wondering... how much weight has this added? or for just an example or average, how much weight would a full deadening job add on the xB?

 

Well this write up has helped me a bit. the "bolts of hell" that are mounted on the sides that connect to the back-rest part of the seat were a pain. i was crankin on it and crankin on it, wouldn't move so i said to my self "ok, lets take a bit easy, don't know if you're going to damage something". so i checked this thread and saw that it's a tough bugger, so i grabbed my wrench and a one hand sledge and pounded on it lke an impact gun, worked like a charm.

also, if you are going to take the rear out for anything. you don't need to take the whole back rest out all in one. it's a piece togethere. just take the cussion out, fold the back-rests down and take out the two far out plastic pins on each side nearest to the bottum corners near the panel siding. there you can de-bolt each side of the back rest from the suport bar, THEN de-bolt the suport bar and THEN go for the pain the ___ bolts that are on the sides. this makes carrieing a 100lb backrest out to carrieing 30lb pieces out, so i'd recommend this and take it easy on your back.

i had to take a look on my right rear side. there was this wierd rubbing noise... sounded like bushings and joints that havn't been lubed properly or not lubed at all but it sounded like it was comming from the metal a few inches below the right side cargo window, as if it was either the coil spring or the strut. thankfuly, it wasn't either of these. i tore down the whole thing, checked everything i could from wires to suspension to even possible spot weld cracks and found nothing. i put the whole thing back togethere and took it for a good spin... normaly it would make that horrible noise from normal driving so if my good run didn't do anything, then i think it was just the paneling rubbing somewhere and i must have got rid of what ever was rubbing cause it's just as it was when i baught it.

again, thanks for the write-up! helped me deffinently. pulling the paneling is alot easier then i thought it would be. good ol'Toyota, everything just pops togethere

 

I need to do this

 

That's what I ended up doing. Once you're removed the 2 backrest pieces, the bolts on the end of the bar are completely accessable

 

how tough was it for you to remove those pins on the back? i'm doing some exterior painting and i'd like to do the little hanle cover on the hatch but it seems i need to go through the inside of the hatch to get it off.

 

Those yellow foam pieces on the door panel: What are they for? Do they protrude a lot into the holes in the door? I want to take off the vapor barrier and cover those holes with plexiglass to seal it up and make the door more effective as an enclosure. Will I have to shave them down, and what would happen if I removed them?

 

If I'm to add in Ensolite or some Foam into the Door Panel.
How should it be added?

Would it in the Door Frame, or in between with PVC and the Door itself?

Thanks.

 

Bumping this. Looking for some updated info.

I was on the ED site and the sound deadening stuff is not the same thickness as used.

I'd like to know how much material is needed now, compared to what was used. How much more for the roof is needed, too.

 

i see that you listed what you installed. but i didnt see what tools you used to remove everything. can u post a list of them?

 

Screw drivers, drill, panel popper tool, set of metric sockets w/ratchet. It really doesn't take much more than that.

Oh yeah, for a single layer covering the entire box takes roughly 114 sq. ft. depending on how thorough you are with the material. Doesn't matter what the thickness of the matting is when it's just a single layer.

 

I've got 125 sq/ft in mine.

Did not do the roof, but the front doors are (3) panel surfaces and the rear doors are (2) panel surfaces). Did entire floor, firewall, inside the hatch and into the rear quarter panels as far as I could reach. Also, around the windows-A/B/C pillars.

Robert

 

How many sq/ft should I get. I'm in Canada, shipping will take a while, better get more then enough first time, then have car stripped for a long long time.
2 layer on all 4 doors and the whole rest of car, but should I slap on 2 layers on the rest or is it overkill and stick with 1 ?
Also how about roof, is it important ?

 

You should focus on a few areas and single layer the rest TBH. Also, you should consider multiple mediums for proper deadening.

Primary spots to deaden:
1. Wheel wells
2. Hatch
3. Firewall
4. Doors

Secondary
1. Floor
2. Walls
3. Roof

For the doors, you should do exterior skin, then interior skin. Over the top of that you need to use a closed cell foam. The closed cell foam will help eliminate the higher pitched white noise from the road drone. You can go with three layers on the door if you would like... depending on the deadener you are using, it could be overkill.

I'm still looking for a good deadener I can use on the exterior of the firewall... that will eliminate quite a bit of the engine and tire noise. Most stuff I've found won't hold up to the weather conditions.

For the hatch, get as much of that deadened as you can. Then fill a good amount with some polyfill. Just be sure the latch mechanism is not obstructed. Oh yeah, and if you have a rear wiper still, don't get the fluff near that stuff either. On the rear panel which covers the hatch, throw in some closed cell foam between the panel and hatch to finish off the three layers. On the floor in the rear, you may want to throw down two layers of deadener and a single layer of closed cell foam.

Now, for the deadener you go with, some are better than others and more still offer thicker substance. You could be going with Peel&Seal as your sound deadener thinking only one or two layers will do the trick nicely... or you could be going with something overkill from Second Skin where a single layer will do wonders. Just make sure you go with the non-asphalt deadener made from butyl. That will give you the most bang for your buck.

I went the ghetto way out with the closed cell foam. Instead of paying top dollar for the stuff at the deadening specialists, I went to my hardware store and picked up some water resistant floor underlay. It's the same material, only the stuff I got isn't black/gray. You can't see the stuff when you place it where you would like to put it, so it really doesn't matter much.

Amount of butyl deadener to get: 120sq ft.
Amount of asphalt deadener to get: 180-250sq ft. (double layer everything, so 4 layers on each door)
Amount of closed cell foam: 50 ft roll (cost me $12USD for 1/8" thick)
Amount of polyfill: One 5LB box ($10)

The roof is not the most important part... should be the last thing you do when it comes to deadening. However, when it rains... I can hear the rain on my window... but not on the roof. If you have a killer stereo in your car, you should deaden the roof simply for the problem of flexing surfaces reduce interior db levels and allow for standing waves (which is bad in a SQ setup).

 

I don't have killer audio....medium I'd say. But the car is annoyingly loud. I can hear everything from outside, it's gotta b the loudest car i ever rode in.
I'm gonna go ahead with SS damplifier (not the pro).
Will probably have car gutted for a month with deadening and new audio install but should b fun.
thx for a nice response.

 

I almost forgot one location to pay attention to... behind the tail lights you should put in some polyfill in there. It will help kill the mid level white noise and expand the sound depth of the speakers.

Oh yeah, get some cheap egg crate packing foam to put behind your speakers. That will help with standing waves and give better response for the lows/mids.