is anyone willing to give me a crash course on in car elec.? basically what i wanna know is what the difference between the different type of amps are like monobass, multichannel, etc. and also... what are ohm's?

pretty much i wanna know what all of this means:

• Continuous Power Handling: 300 Watts
• Voice Coil: 2.25" diameter, 4-layer, Kapton former
• Impedence: Dual 6-ohm Voice Coils
• Xmax (one-way, linear): 0.46"-0.51"
• Sealed Enclosure Range: 1.00-1.50 cu.ft.
• Ported Enclosure Range: 2.00-3.00 cu.ft.

i understand if no one wants to help me. i dont know jack about car audio. thats why i wanna learn about stuff before i buy something.

....o yea and is there a difference in sound when the sub is facing down or is that just for show?

 

the sub could take up to 300 watts of power... you can play the sub all day with little to no problems...

specs people can beat off too... it's how the subs cool... normally bigger = you can throw more power at it but that depends all on how the sub was designed... don't buy a sub from these numbers alone

impedance = resistance, used to match amps and seakers properly... for this particular sub since it is dual voice coil... it would be a 3 ohm load, or 12 ohm load... most amps wouldn't produce much power at 12 ohms...

xmax = how much the sub can move in, xmax (one way linear) in one way

what is the reccommended air space from the manufacturer for the sub to still work
efficiently sound good... in a sealed box... also used to help design the physical space the system will require

what is the reccommended air space from the manufacturer for the sub to still work efficiently sound good... in a ported box... also used to help design the physical space the system will require

it's hard for us to give you a "crash course" on car audio... most of the stuff you learn, and don't know that you know it... if you have a question post up and someone will help you out...

down as in showing off the magnet or down as in a dowfire box where you can't see the sub?

 

nice work V...

i think the last q. is about inverted drivers, where the magnet is exposed...

that is all for show, it tends to score a few decibils lower...

 

The specification which indicates linear excursion capability is "Xmax". This spec designates the amount of cone travel in one direction while maintaining linear motor behavior and is usually listed in inches or milimeters.

Linear motor behavior means that there is always a constant length of voice coil winding in the magnetic gap of the motor structure. If the voice coil is pushed beyond the linear limit, the output becomes more distorted and, if pushed too far, the speaker can suffer a failure of its suspension components or voice coil windings. Well-designed woofers can be played beyond their Xmax to some extent without audible low-frequency distortion or damage. The design of the suspension plays a large role in determining how acceptable the non-linear behavior will be.

Xmax does not indicate how far the cone can be physically moved. Just because a woofer cone can be moved by hand a great deal does not mean that its voice coil is capable of moving it that far. Just because you can go 100 mph on a bicycle being towed by a Porsche doesn't mean that you can achieve that speed using leg power! You should also be conscious of "peak to peak" Xmax specs which need to be divided by two to compare to one-way specs.

Long-excursion woofers require very rugged and precise suspension and motor design as well as sufficient thermal powerhandling to take advantage of their excursion potential.
http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/aco...put/index.html

 

You can also find out alot about the 12W3v2-D6 in the owner's manual http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/12W3v2_MAN.pdf or PM me directly

 

thank you :D

 

what are the differences between amps? like 2 channel, multi channel, etc.
if i'm just going to get one 12 whats the best kind of amp to get (1 channel, 2 channel, or multichannel)?

 

If going with one sub you would only need to get either a monochannel or a 2 channel that is bridgeable.. just look at power handling of amp compared to what you need for sub and the impedence of the amp versus inpedence of sub..

I have 1 12" infinity sub with 4 ohm ompedence wired toa soundstorm 2 channel amp that is 4 ohm bridged..in a custom ported box and have no problems.. and can sound better than alot of 2 speaker set ups in a sealed box.. (not saying is the best and would win alot of contest but it does its job) and why ported b/c the infinity subs sound like SH*T in a sealed box but if ported and made to the specs they give with sub sounds great.

just make sure that the impedence of the sub is equal to or great than the impedence of the amp.. if impedence less (example: 2 ohm speaker to 4 ohm amp)then amp will over heat and shut down..

 

you're right.....as long as it's JUST inverted drivers......certain enclosures have an isobaric setup whitch requires an inverted driver and a hidden driver.... here's more info than I know......
http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/isobarik/index.html

 

Ohm - a measurement for resistance...

multi channel amps:

4 channel - normally used to run smaller speakers (not subs, with the exception of midbass subs) or bi-amp a set of components... this allows for more flexibility to adjust sound levels of mids and tweets independently... most makeusable power at a 4 ohm load.. i don't reccomend running speaker sets in parrallel to a 2 ohm load... even though many amps can do it... they won't be able to do it for long...

2 channel - very flexible amps in my opinion... can be used to amp either two sets of speakers... (normally fronts or subs) most amps can be bridged to produce more power... often used this way to power subs... watch the impedance when selecting amps

mono - 95 percent of these amps are designed for bass applications only... most are very efficient in producing power... there frequency range is generally limited to sub 500 hz... watch impedance load... some mono amps are capable of droping to 1.667 ohms or below...

few exceptions are... factory bose systems... some older factory infinity sysetms as well

super said it... when the cones are inverted they are mainly for show... some companies will argue that the output is the same... i beg to differ, more surface area more spl... although some setups still sound decent with inverted cones... it all comes down to how everything is setup... adn will you give up spl for show...

 

Hmmm isobaric= the fastest way to make 2 subs sound like one :twisted:

 

so if the sub i want has a continuous power handling of 300 watts then would it be stupid if i got like a 900 watt amp? how much "wattage" should
and is 300 watts alot? is it pretty loud?

 

well thats not easy to answer at all just cuz a sub hold a ton of power doesnt mean itll be super loud. though generally thats how it works.

ex- 300 watt continuous jl sub is going to hit much harder and cleaner than a 300 watt walmart sub.

but thats not really a big concern in buying. as long as youre not comparing high class with wally world crap then u dont have to worry about sub As power VS sub B

also subs can be over or underatted to. usually high class subs get underatted buy about 200 watts. and crap subs get overatted by about 400 (this is word of mouth from an installer).

overall the BEST way to match subs and amps is by the RMS (continuos) power. the reason for this is sube rarely get to the point where they play at their max power for long periods of time. -im pretty sure what ive said is right for the most part. if anything is wrong let me know, its late here-