no dome light with door open after mod
07-05-2013, 08:43 AM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5
no dome light with door open after mod
06.5 xB1
I did the Prius map light mod, plus entry lighting, following the write-up at https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=223493.
Before starting, I pulled the dome light fuse from the box under the hood. This may be important later.
In wiring the map light, I mistakenly crossed the hot wire and the ground wire, i.e., at the top of the following diagram of the map light wiring (borrowed from the write-up), I mistakenly wired ground (from dome ground screw) to map light hot (+), and hot (from dome blue/yellow) to map light ground (⏚):
Not knowing my mistake, I put the fuse back in. Immediately noticed, time on clock wrong, trip odometer reading gone, etc. As expected, from pulling fuse.
Next, turned on map lights, worked but dim. Turned on dome light, worked but dim. Next, with dome switch set to "door," I opened the door, NO map lights, NO dome light. Knew something was wrong, pulled fuse.* Checked/found wiring mistake, fixed it, put fuse back in.
*Note: When I opened the door with the wiring wrong, I created a dead short to ground. However, fuse was OK. I don't know why...
Now, with the map light wiring fixed, when I turn switches "on," dome light and map lights work at full bright. With dome switch set to "door," NO map lights/dome light with door open. Also, if I disconnect all new wiring and return circuit to original, with dome switch set to "door," NO map lights/dome light with door open, i.e., circuit to turn on interior lights with door open is not working. However, red "door-open" warning light on dash does light up with door open.
With door open and dome switch set to "door," I should have continuity between brown/yellow wire at dome (door-open ground) and chassis ground. I don't. Also, I can jump from ground side of bulb to chassis ground and lights work, indicating the problem is in the door-open ground wiring, the door-open ground switches, whatever controls the dome-light-delay-to-off when-the-doors-close circuit, or something else in the circuit.
I don't think I fried any contacts in the light fixtures themselves, because they still work, and no visible sign of damage. I don't think I fried the door-open ground wiring (brown/yellow) or door-open ground switches. If the problem isn't the wiring or the door switches, I'm assuming it's related to the dome-light-delay-to-off-when-the-doors-close function, and 1) there's a separate fuse for this part of the circuit that I blew when I caused the dead short, or 2) more likely, a computer (?) controls this function, but I don't know where it is, or how to fix/reset it. Or 3) the problem is something else in the circuit.
So that's my question: what (fuse, relay, computer?) controls the dome-light-delay-to-off when the doors close, where is it, and how do I find/check/fix/reset it?
Knowledge, thoughts, or insights about how to find and fix the cause of this problem are appreciated.
Note: No previous wiring or any other alterations from original. No prior body damage or aftermarket alarm/lights.
I did the Prius map light mod, plus entry lighting, following the write-up at https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=223493.
Before starting, I pulled the dome light fuse from the box under the hood. This may be important later.
In wiring the map light, I mistakenly crossed the hot wire and the ground wire, i.e., at the top of the following diagram of the map light wiring (borrowed from the write-up), I mistakenly wired ground (from dome ground screw) to map light hot (+), and hot (from dome blue/yellow) to map light ground (⏚):
Not knowing my mistake, I put the fuse back in. Immediately noticed, time on clock wrong, trip odometer reading gone, etc. As expected, from pulling fuse.
Next, turned on map lights, worked but dim. Turned on dome light, worked but dim. Next, with dome switch set to "door," I opened the door, NO map lights, NO dome light. Knew something was wrong, pulled fuse.* Checked/found wiring mistake, fixed it, put fuse back in.
*Note: When I opened the door with the wiring wrong, I created a dead short to ground. However, fuse was OK. I don't know why...
Now, with the map light wiring fixed, when I turn switches "on," dome light and map lights work at full bright. With dome switch set to "door," NO map lights/dome light with door open. Also, if I disconnect all new wiring and return circuit to original, with dome switch set to "door," NO map lights/dome light with door open, i.e., circuit to turn on interior lights with door open is not working. However, red "door-open" warning light on dash does light up with door open.
With door open and dome switch set to "door," I should have continuity between brown/yellow wire at dome (door-open ground) and chassis ground. I don't. Also, I can jump from ground side of bulb to chassis ground and lights work, indicating the problem is in the door-open ground wiring, the door-open ground switches, whatever controls the dome-light-delay-to-off when-the-doors-close circuit, or something else in the circuit.
I don't think I fried any contacts in the light fixtures themselves, because they still work, and no visible sign of damage. I don't think I fried the door-open ground wiring (brown/yellow) or door-open ground switches. If the problem isn't the wiring or the door switches, I'm assuming it's related to the dome-light-delay-to-off-when-the-doors-close function, and 1) there's a separate fuse for this part of the circuit that I blew when I caused the dead short, or 2) more likely, a computer (?) controls this function, but I don't know where it is, or how to fix/reset it. Or 3) the problem is something else in the circuit.
So that's my question: what (fuse, relay, computer?) controls the dome-light-delay-to-off when the doors close, where is it, and how do I find/check/fix/reset it?
Knowledge, thoughts, or insights about how to find and fix the cause of this problem are appreciated.
Note: No previous wiring or any other alterations from original. No prior body damage or aftermarket alarm/lights.
Last edited by brillo; 07-05-2013 at 09:19 PM. Reason: clarification
07-05-2013, 09:11 PM
#2
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5
Just found 7 year old Scionlife forum response from Tomas to xB1 owner who made same mistake during light mod at https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...ght=dome+light
Result was his dome light never went off, where mine doesn't come on with open door. Tomas thought the Door Lock Control Relay was fried.
Does anyone here have knowledge about replacing Door Lock Control Relay in xB1?
Result was his dome light never went off, where mine doesn't come on with open door. Tomas thought the Door Lock Control Relay was fried.
Does anyone here have knowledge about replacing Door Lock Control Relay in xB1?
Last edited by brillo; 07-09-2013 at 02:22 AM. Reason: Add question
08-06-2013, 02:15 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5
Did my homework. Pulled the speedo/combo meter (easy) to access the DLCR. Used a screwdriver to gently but firmly pry it off of its bracket. Tested for continuity at 4,5,7. Nope. Bad. Tomas was right. NEW DLCR is ~$500 retail. I got a used one from Rancho Cordova, Cal., bone yard via ebay for $31 (best offer). Tested it for continuity. Good. Put it in.
All THREE interior lights work now, including door-open-on and 15 second dim after door closed.
Opened the old DLCR. LOTS of electronics. Nothing visibly fried, but one of those hundreds of little transistors took the juice and failed.
Anyone messing with the dome light circuit should note, the fixture is always hot. Different than almost any other vehicle, the switches are on the ground side, so there is NO fuse to protect the DLCR if you short to ground (body) or connect it backwards like I did.
All THREE interior lights work now, including door-open-on and 15 second dim after door closed.
Opened the old DLCR. LOTS of electronics. Nothing visibly fried, but one of those hundreds of little transistors took the juice and failed.
Anyone messing with the dome light circuit should note, the fixture is always hot. Different than almost any other vehicle, the switches are on the ground side, so there is NO fuse to protect the DLCR if you short to ground (body) or connect it backwards like I did.
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