Replacing xB1 Front Door Lock Actuator Motor
Changing the lock motor is very easy and you only need a couple of screwdrivers to do it. The whole job took about 20 leisurely minutes, much less time than it took to write this up.
The procedure in the service manual is ludicrous, instructing the technician to remove the window and door latch! :roll: Symptoms of a dead door lock motor:
If you have these symptoms, your door lock position switches and associated electronics are working, but the door lock motor is dead. This is a sealed unit that cannot be repaired by normal efforts. *If your symptoms are different you probably have a different problem, beyond the scope of this post. Obtaining parts: My local dealer (Frontier Toyota, Valencia CA) wanted $130 for the lock motor, including tax. I found the same Toyota OEM part on the Carson Toyota website (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214915) and they delivered the part to my door the next day for $99 including tax and shipping. Shop around. Don't patronize dealers who overcharge their customers. Tools required: Normal #2 Phillips screwdriver Stubby #2 Phillips screwdriver Procedure: Start with the window up and the door open.
You're done. Test your handiwork. :relief: ____ |
Thank you so much for this write-up.
I struggled with the steel rods for a good long time before I gave up and started searching Scionlife. Once I read your write-up- I finished the job in 10 minutes! _____ |
I'm glad it was helpful! It only took three years for someone to need it! :)
George |
Thanks for this info, I will be testing all the options mentioned above and see if my lock motor is dead or I have more problems.
I knew something was screwy when I had to resort to using the key or manually locking the drivers door. My 04 xB only has a little over 50K miles, but when you use something everyday, things wear out! Thanks again. _____ |
Looks like a common problem, Wow... I have only 50K + my problem is intermittent with my lock. My motor must be starting to go :frown:
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You can buy actuator motor on ebay for about $7. Just a little more work to replace it instead of swapping the whole lock unit.
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Originally Posted by George
(Post 3058086)
Changing the lock motor is very easy and you only need a couple of screwdrivers to do it. The whole job took about 20 leisurely minutes, much less time than it took to write this up. The procedure in the service manual is ludicrous, instructing the technician to remove the window and door latch! :roll:
Symptoms of a dead door lock motor: If you have these symptoms, your door lock position switches and associated electronics are working, but the door lock motor is dead. This is a sealed unit that cannot be repaired by normal efforts. If your symptoms are different you probably have a different problem, beyond the scope of this post. Obtaining parts: My local dealer (Frontier Toyota, Valencia CA) wanted $130 for the lock motor, including tax. I found the same Toyota OEM part on the Carson Toyota website (Carson Toyota/Scion/Lexus Ultimate OEM Parts) and they delivered the part to my door the next day for $99 including tax and shipping. Shop around. Don't patronize dealers who overcharge their customers. Tools required: Normal #2 Phillips screwdriver Stubby #2 Phillips screwdriver Procedure: Start with the window up and the door open. You're done. Test your handiwork. :relief: Thanks Dustin |
Me too
Hi,
I had to re-replace my driver's front door lock actuator. I think I replaced it about a year ago the hard way taking it all apart... Today I did it your way and it worked great !! I did have to pick up a stubby phillips screwdriver... One of the few tools I never aquired in earlier years. New item $9.99 off ebay went right in.... Also, I didn't have to remove the mirror piece; the panel comes right off. Thanks for this tip !! |
Thanks for the write-up, this really helped! My wife just went through this procedure to replace the driver's door actuator on our 2004 xB. A couple of extra tips to help process go smoothly.
5b. To save your finger strength, you can slide a flat screwdriver between door and panel and slide along edge until it bumps into clip, then pry. Slide screwdriver to next clip and pry. This works better on older cars with the cardboard door panels, as the hole around the clips can break if you're not careful. A set of door panel/ upholstery tools can really help. The 2-finger tool really helps with prying evenly on both sides of a clip to pull out the panel with minimal effort. 10b. The actuator can be replaced with the door-mechanism in either the locked or unlocked position. The trick is to have BOTH arms on the actuator be parallel in the same position. The basket goes over the ball of the door mechanism and the finger goes between the two-finger prongs of the pushrod that moves the lock-tab up & down. 14b. Helps to put the lower hidden-screw in first. Alight the basket and finger of the actuator with the mechanism. Press the tip of the stubby screwdriver over the lower screw's head to keep it from falling out and slide the actuator around in small circles. At some point, the screw's tip falls into the hole with a slight click you can feel, maybe even hear. Tighten lower screw halfway. Install upper screw and tighten. Go back and tighten lower screw. |
Thanks George, your write up helped me get the job done.
To help see inside the door I used a cell phone and face time with the computer. I also replaced the rear passenger lock actuator. It was more cramped but a similar procedure. A philips screw tip and a close quarters bit driver helped. :biggrin: |
Thanks for the write up. It definitely helped me replace my actuator.
I ran into an issue that I'm hoping someone else could shed some light on. Somewhere along the way, the arm on the actuator became stuck (I couldn't move it manually)(It moved normally originally). Once installed, the door locks and unlocks with power, but I still can't manually use the lock, from inside the car or outside with the key. I tested the actuator a few times during the install, so I suppose something could have happened then. I'm wondering if anyone knows of a way to unbind the arm, or do I need another actuator? Thanks, Dustin |
George,
I'm not a "car guy" my any stretch of the imagination (I can't even figure out how to change my oil) but I was convinced by your post that I could fix the driver's door actuator. I found one online for $20 from a company with a lifetime guarantee and guarantee fit, so figured I'd give it a shot. Pessimistic as I was about the supposed ease of the repair, I'm happy to say it only took me about 20 minutes and was not frustrating or difficult at all. Thanks a million for the detailed and well-thought-out tutorial here. It saved me around $200. |
8 years later this write up is still helping people, thanks.
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One issue I did run into after replacing the actuator, however, is that the doors lock fine. But when I use my key in the driver's door to lock, it locks, but then I have to turn the key slightly to pull it out, which makes the door halfway unlock. Was it something I did in installing something crooked or what would cause this?
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I just replaced the driver door actuator in my 2005 xB and it was really easy. If you google part number REPS464904 you will find it for around $10 instead of the usual $80-$100 for the same part from different manufacturers, but I just installed it and it works fine (for now anyway). I was worried it would be some cheap knockoff junk that didn't fit but it looks exactly like the OEM part. Another thing to remember is the car wont lock with your key fob if the door is open. I screwed around with it for a half an hour trying to figure out why it would lock with the button on the armrest but the fob would only unlock it and not lock it.
After I put it all back together and shut the door the fob started working again. I also never disconnected the window/lock connector because it was a pain to get it unplugged, I just rested the entire piece on a box so the wire going to the speaker wouldn't get ripped out ____ |
Originally Posted by aphrodied
(Post 4180441)
I ran into an issue that I'm hoping someone else could shed some light on. Somewhere along the way, the arm on the actuator became stuck (I couldn't move it manually)(It moved normally originally). Once installed, the door locks and unlocks with power, but I still can't manually use the lock, from inside the car or outside with the key.
... I'm wondering if anyone knows of a way to unbind the arm, or do I need another actuator? The switch shares an axle/pivot with the lock/unlock arm, but is independent. Either one can move independently. TEST these arms when you get your replacement. Some of them are bad right out of the box with insufficient grease. This can be detected by stiff movement of the manual switch. Over time it will get worse and seize like yours and mine did. We got a replacement actuator off eBay for $9 and it had no binding in the manual switch arm. Popped it in and everything’s back to normal! |
Scion door actuator
I don’t know if you will ever read this George but thanks. The year is now February 2018. Thanks for your posting. I could not figure it out either. I tried to find utube videos but found none that were useful. I used my iPhone and put it inside the door to take pics so I could find the screws. It worked. I followed your instructions line by line and finally did it. Thanks again! |
thanks for brilliant and useful thread!
I replaced both the front and rear driver side door actuators a couple months ago. Went smoothly thanks to this thread! Now the driver door actuator seems to have seized (already failed!). I'm glad for the most recent update, and will pursue advice about the "manual tab/rod"
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
(Post 4285160)
I’m back with an update. This happened to my wife’s replacement actuator about about 15-months after the replacement. The manual tab/rod moves a rotary switch inside actuator that signals it to lock or unlock door.
The switch shares an axle/pivot with the lock/unlock arm, but is independent. Either one can move independently. TEST these arms when you get your replacement. Some of them are bad right out of the box with insufficient grease. This can be detected by stiff movement of the manual switch. Over time it will get worse and seize like yours and mine did. We got a replacement actuator off eBay for $9 and it had no binding in the manual switch arm. Popped it in and everything’s back to normal! |
Originally Posted by BlackJackie
(Post 4282080)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwA...ew?usp=sharing
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