DIY brake pad change?
remove wheel - remove caliper by removing 2 bolts on back of caliper - slide caliper out and away from rotor - remove pads from caliper - install new pads on caliper - slide caliper back onto rotor - reinstall 2 bolts on back of caliper - torq to spec - reinstall wheel.
Originally Posted by pandaslayer
would just a quick clamp work, or I need a c-clamp?
would you happen to know how big?
would you happen to know how big?
Changed out my pads about 6mo ago (with EBC "green stuff"...they suck butts by the way), you need a pretty skinny clamp to get in there. Look around a little. Standard C clamp wont fit in there. Keep an eye on your brake fluid when you do this too.
If you don't know how to do this, it's good to let a professional do it...after all, your brakes or the car in front of you are the only things that can stop you when you drive.
If you don't know how to do this, it's good to let a professional do it...after all, your brakes or the car in front of you are the only things that can stop you when you drive.
Originally Posted by evilBOXevil
you need a pretty skinny clamp to get in there. Look around a little. Standard C clamp wont fit in there. Keep an eye on your brake fluid when you do this too.
If you don't know how to do this, it's good to let a professional do it...after all, your brakes or the car in front of you are the only things that can stop you when you drive.
If you don't know how to do this, it's good to let a professional do it...after all, your brakes or the car in front of you are the only things that can stop you when you drive.
And yeah, I second the professional help if you have no clue what you are doing.
I have some idea of what i'm doing but where exactly are you supposed to place the C-clamp? I ran into the problem of not being able to fit the new pads over the rotors and forgot about the C-clamp thing. If someone could specify what size C-clamp and precisely where to position it that would be nice. Otherwise i'm ready to go.
Basically, you need to get one side of the c clamp on the back side of the caliper and one on the hollow cylinder looking thing on the inside. You can either catch the edge or go for the center of it, whatever works best for the clamp you are using. Then, just tighten until it is flush with the caliper housing. Once you have everything back together, a few pumps of your brake pedal should get everything adjusted, then it's just a matter of getting the pads properly bedded with the rotors.
FYI, I recently replaced the pad on bot my xA and my girl's with Satisfied Pro VS OEM pads. Very inexpensive($27), quiet, and offer some nice stopping power with the factory rotors.
FYI, I recently replaced the pad on bot my xA and my girl's with Satisfied Pro VS OEM pads. Very inexpensive($27), quiet, and offer some nice stopping power with the factory rotors.
Thanks for the info. Do actual mechanics use this C-clamp method or do they have a special tool? Did you get those pads from the dealer? I sprung for the Hawk pads and some slotted rotors from tiretrack.
It sounds logical that bleeding the lines would release the pressure on the piston but i'm not flushing the system just yet. When i do i'm going to do SS lines and DOT4 fluid. For right now i just need to find a C-clamp that will fit in the caliper to compress the piston.
I've heard that the Axxis ULT pads are too hard for daily driving and eat up rotors or something. I could be wrong. Do you have stock rotors?
I've heard that the Axxis ULT pads are too hard for daily driving and eat up rotors or something. I could be wrong. Do you have stock rotors?
Yeah i have stock rotors. I just slapped them on and bled the brakes. Since they're more performance oriented, i wouldn't doubt it'll eat up these rotors and i'm thinking i will only get 30k on these pads... but seeing how our freeways here are full of ppl stomping on brakes, these may save my life.
Daily driving, they are progressive feeling like stock but as you push harder on the pedal, the brakes grab,
Daily driving, they are progressive feeling like stock but as you push harder on the pedal, the brakes grab,
I dont use a "C" clamp All I use is the lug wrench while it is still on the car I slip it inbetween the pad and rotor and push the piston back,A large pair of Slip joint pliars (Channel locks)will work also.
Scott
Scott







