knocking sounds over bumps after upgrades
#1
knocking sounds over bumps after upgrades
Hello,
I've got an 06 xb, 130k miles, it was bone stock until I went for new TRD springs, strut bar and rear sway.
I installed them myself, but I might have messed something up. Going over hard bumps, the front makes a knocking sound. I checked the strut bar, its tight.
I took off the wheel, pulled on everything and shook it all to see if anything was loose. I smacked the disc a few different ways and it made a clunk sound and seemed to reseat itself. I thought I solved the problem, but its back, though maybe 10% as bad as it was.
Anyone have any suggestions?
The only thing I can think is that the disc is still not on properly ( I didn't remove it or the caliper, by the way). Or maybe the old tired bushings on the front sway bar and making noise? I now I need to change them but was going to wait a few months, could they be making noise?
Little help?
Thanks
I've got an 06 xb, 130k miles, it was bone stock until I went for new TRD springs, strut bar and rear sway.
I installed them myself, but I might have messed something up. Going over hard bumps, the front makes a knocking sound. I checked the strut bar, its tight.
I took off the wheel, pulled on everything and shook it all to see if anything was loose. I smacked the disc a few different ways and it made a clunk sound and seemed to reseat itself. I thought I solved the problem, but its back, though maybe 10% as bad as it was.
Anyone have any suggestions?
The only thing I can think is that the disc is still not on properly ( I didn't remove it or the caliper, by the way). Or maybe the old tired bushings on the front sway bar and making noise? I now I need to change them but was going to wait a few months, could they be making noise?
Little help?
Thanks
#2
for $20 you can do the energy suspension bushing upgrade (highly recomended) but i would say that its probably the nut on the shock that connects everything together didnt get tightened enough. lots of people have had problems with not getting them tight enough and having clunking. i would start with that and let us know if it fixes it.
#4
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yep and make sure they they are tightened enough..my guess is they are loose.. this has happened to a bunch of folks who thought they were tight enough however... nope
#5
Thanks for the replies, I was afraid I was SOL,
can I tighten the springs while they are installed? by pulling the cap off and just tightening it?
How can I tell if the springs are upside down?
The old springs had some rubber piece on them, just a casing, about 6 inches long, do I need to transfer that to the new springs? Or get a new one? What's that called?
can I tighten the springs while they are installed? by pulling the cap off and just tightening it?
How can I tell if the springs are upside down?
The old springs had some rubber piece on them, just a casing, about 6 inches long, do I need to transfer that to the new springs? Or get a new one? What's that called?
#6
Not familiar with 1st gen xb spring set up but if it's similar to the 2nd gen, then I remember transferring over parts from the old to the new because the spring set on my 2010 just included the springs. Additionally, make sure the spring was oriented correctly. There should be a groove (for the front) at the seat of the spring mount base where the end of the spring should meet. And yes you can tighten the springs from inside the engine bay by just removing the dust cover. The springs have a tighter coil at one end and wider at the other. I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong) the tighter coil should be facing upward. That goes for front and rear.
#7
i dont think you would be able to install them upside down because they will only fit one way. as far as tightening the nut that holds it all together i have heard of some doing it while it is on the car so i assume that you can. if it spins the shaft on the strut with hand tools you may have to use air tools to seat the nut all the way. if you are talking about the little plastic piece that fits onto the actual spring, i didnt use my old one and havnt had any issue. i believe its just there to stop a few rubbing issues that could arise.
#9
I have seen this many times before and I can say that it is just as everyone else has suggested with the top nut on the strut assembly. That nut should be new everytime the strut assembly is dissambled also. If you don't have air tools, and don't want to remove the whole assembly from the vehicle to tighten one nut, you can do it with an offset box wrench and an allen wrench to keep the strut piston from spinning when tightening.
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