Why is it a truck can sit on it's frame but no xB is?
11-18-2005, 05:15 PM
#21
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KAD
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Good info in this thread. When i bag mine i'm not too worried about it getting as low as possible, but i'm sure once i find out how low it goes i'll want more, but then again for the time being i'm running 15" so i'll probably get pretty damn low
11-19-2005, 02:05 PM
#23
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im not 100% positive if its true but read on here over a year or so ago when the ptap xb came out and bagging an xb was still a mystery, that it had the power steering removed completely. I think gravity werx had a hand in the build, they could probably give some insight on how it was done.
later, chris
also cool to find out more s10 guys on here i have a 97 sonoma stock floor body drop w/ a v8 going in
later, chris
also cool to find out more s10 guys on here i have a 97 sonoma stock floor body drop w/ a v8 going in
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11-23-2005, 07:25 PM
#25
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Scikotics
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so its this the only xb that goes this low............on 19's............has anyone seen one on 20's.......bagged the same way.............................................
ok guys im planning on doing this but on 20's i talk to ekstensive here in houston but they want to much for it........
i want to see pictures of anyone slammed on 20's......i know all the bolt on kits air rides and all... but they only go so low...i want to go lower.........anyone please ...post anything.thank guyz
ok guys im planning on doing this but on 20's i talk to ekstensive here in houston but they want to much for it........
i want to see pictures of anyone slammed on 20's......i know all the bolt on kits air rides and all... but they only go so low...i want to go lower.........anyone please ...post anything.thank guyz
11-23-2005, 08:14 PM
#27
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nitto 215/35-19 24.93in tall 225/30-20 25.39in tall
wont be a hugh difference to make it happen, pm phatfront if he still gets on here, he had an accord unibodydropped here in the dfw. If he dont reply let me know i can get ahold of him.
wont be a hugh difference to make it happen, pm phatfront if he still gets on here, he had an accord unibodydropped here in the dfw. If he dont reply let me know i can get ahold of him.
11-23-2005, 08:51 PM
#28
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here is mine with easystreet fronts and it will not go any lower without moveing bolt holes up or modifying the strut tower. FYI i have removed my sway bar and not only got lower but the ride got better. i am guessing it was in a bind which caused the ride to be stiffer with it.
by the way mine is FORSALE if anyone is interested.
it is posted in the classifieds.
by the way mine is FORSALE if anyone is interested.
it is posted in the classifieds.
11-23-2005, 08:59 PM
#29
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I won't get into specifics, as I haven't even bagged the wife's box with bolt on parts yet. But I can give you the framework for a game plan. This is assuming you will be wanting to do all of your own work. Otherwise, whatever shop you take it to will have to figure it out themselves. The one thing you have to keep in mind is that you can't be scared to cut.
First and foremost, get your wheels and tires first. And no, tires with the same diameter but smaller wheels won't do! Why? Because the sidewall shape of the tire is completely different. All of your clearancing work may be for naught if you use the wrong rolling stock to begin with. You can also build some wood bucks if you really want to get a head start. But like I said, there is no substitution for the real deal.
Now we can look at the front and back separately. First try and tackle the front. It will probably be the hardest. Now you have a couple of options on the front end. One is to use a set of standard bolt on air struts and modify the strut towers. The other is to do some fabrication work on custom struts. You can either get a fabricators strut kit from Airlift, or try and get Air Ride Technologies to send you a set of stripped down air struts. You have to realize though that the Air Ride Struts, though much nicer, could prove much more difficult on the fabrication end.
Now even using custom fabricated struts, there is no guarantee that you won't still have to modify your strut tower to get all the way down. I would still begin with the custom struts though, and go from there. When you are setting up your custom struts you will want those wheels and tires to look for clearance problems. Everything from the power steering which was mentioned before to the sway bar and inner fenders.
The power steering may be able to be relocated. You will have to build a custom bracket though. And this may require the use of a different belt. Have a few different sizes on hand when you are mocking up your bracket. With the sway bar you have a few options. One is to just notch the sub-frame for clearance. Another is fabricating new links. The last is to ditch the sway bar completely. Many people have no problem doing this, but I would personally try to keep it.
Then you have to address clearance on the inner fenders. If you hit before you lay, you can go the ghetto minitrucker route and just cut out the fenders as required. Keep in mind though, that Toyota may have mounted vital components on those fenders that must be relocated. This can mean a LOT of work. You can also fabricate "mini-tubs" to help keep your engine bay clean.
Like I said, I am painting with very broad strokes here. No specifics. Just the things I would anticipate being road blocks to accomplishing what you are trying to do. And if you think the post is long now, I have only generally addressed the front suspension! Let's take a look at the rear.
The first thing you have to decide is how much of the stock rear suspension would you like to retain? This will play a big part in how you tackle the rear. The stock rear suspension design is very easy to install air springs on. However, the design never took into account large drops, or large wheels. You can go low, and you can go big. However, you will have to sacrifice for the ease of retaining aspects of the rear suspension. Most notably is that your wheel will be WAY forward in the wheel wells. Enough so that you may run into some big time interference. This could mean some really serious reshaping of the door jamb, doors, and other interior components. You can see a little bit of what I am talking about in the rear of the green and silver box from Mini Truckin'.
Your other option is to go completely custom. Your best bet, and how I would tackle it would be with a completely one off rear suspension. Gone would be the stock torsion beam and trailing arms. But I might retain the stock trailing arm mounts. In their place I would fabricate a custom rear straight axle, and locate it using a wishbone link design. Everything would mount using rubber (softer, smoother) or polyurethane (stiffer, rougher) bushings. Then I would fabricate custom upper and lower mounts behind the axle for bags. You could use either sleeves (F9000s preferred) or convoluted bags (probably Slam Specialties RE-6 for stroke). With a custom setup like this you could better center your rear wheel. and with the right design it could be centered (or pretty dang close) throughout the range of suspension travel.
And if you really wanted to get trick in the rear you could use a matching set of either Shock through Bags from Airlift or Shockwaves from Air Ride to go with your custom front struts. Beyond that for some show points you could fabricate your custom rear suspension out of stainless steel. It would polish up really nicely, and turn more heads than just about an xB suspension out there.
Now even with the custom rear suspension you may run into problems with wheel clearance. A set of mini tubs in the rear would probably take care of it. But keep in mind that it means having to modify not just steel, but interior plastic and other finishes.
Good luck, and I hope this helps.
First and foremost, get your wheels and tires first. And no, tires with the same diameter but smaller wheels won't do! Why? Because the sidewall shape of the tire is completely different. All of your clearancing work may be for naught if you use the wrong rolling stock to begin with. You can also build some wood bucks if you really want to get a head start. But like I said, there is no substitution for the real deal.
Now we can look at the front and back separately. First try and tackle the front. It will probably be the hardest. Now you have a couple of options on the front end. One is to use a set of standard bolt on air struts and modify the strut towers. The other is to do some fabrication work on custom struts. You can either get a fabricators strut kit from Airlift, or try and get Air Ride Technologies to send you a set of stripped down air struts. You have to realize though that the Air Ride Struts, though much nicer, could prove much more difficult on the fabrication end.
Now even using custom fabricated struts, there is no guarantee that you won't still have to modify your strut tower to get all the way down. I would still begin with the custom struts though, and go from there. When you are setting up your custom struts you will want those wheels and tires to look for clearance problems. Everything from the power steering which was mentioned before to the sway bar and inner fenders.
The power steering may be able to be relocated. You will have to build a custom bracket though. And this may require the use of a different belt. Have a few different sizes on hand when you are mocking up your bracket. With the sway bar you have a few options. One is to just notch the sub-frame for clearance. Another is fabricating new links. The last is to ditch the sway bar completely. Many people have no problem doing this, but I would personally try to keep it.
Then you have to address clearance on the inner fenders. If you hit before you lay, you can go the ghetto minitrucker route and just cut out the fenders as required. Keep in mind though, that Toyota may have mounted vital components on those fenders that must be relocated. This can mean a LOT of work. You can also fabricate "mini-tubs" to help keep your engine bay clean.
Like I said, I am painting with very broad strokes here. No specifics. Just the things I would anticipate being road blocks to accomplishing what you are trying to do. And if you think the post is long now, I have only generally addressed the front suspension! Let's take a look at the rear.
The first thing you have to decide is how much of the stock rear suspension would you like to retain? This will play a big part in how you tackle the rear. The stock rear suspension design is very easy to install air springs on. However, the design never took into account large drops, or large wheels. You can go low, and you can go big. However, you will have to sacrifice for the ease of retaining aspects of the rear suspension. Most notably is that your wheel will be WAY forward in the wheel wells. Enough so that you may run into some big time interference. This could mean some really serious reshaping of the door jamb, doors, and other interior components. You can see a little bit of what I am talking about in the rear of the green and silver box from Mini Truckin'.
Your other option is to go completely custom. Your best bet, and how I would tackle it would be with a completely one off rear suspension. Gone would be the stock torsion beam and trailing arms. But I might retain the stock trailing arm mounts. In their place I would fabricate a custom rear straight axle, and locate it using a wishbone link design. Everything would mount using rubber (softer, smoother) or polyurethane (stiffer, rougher) bushings. Then I would fabricate custom upper and lower mounts behind the axle for bags. You could use either sleeves (F9000s preferred) or convoluted bags (probably Slam Specialties RE-6 for stroke). With a custom setup like this you could better center your rear wheel. and with the right design it could be centered (or pretty dang close) throughout the range of suspension travel.
And if you really wanted to get trick in the rear you could use a matching set of either Shock through Bags from Airlift or Shockwaves from Air Ride to go with your custom front struts. Beyond that for some show points you could fabricate your custom rear suspension out of stainless steel. It would polish up really nicely, and turn more heads than just about an xB suspension out there.
Now even with the custom rear suspension you may run into problems with wheel clearance. A set of mini tubs in the rear would probably take care of it. But keep in mind that it means having to modify not just steel, but interior plastic and other finishes.
Good luck, and I hope this helps.
11-23-2005, 09:31 PM
#30
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Defined3
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How about drag one LOL !!! I thought of doing it !!!
Forwards & Backwards at that !
Here is my buddies Nissan Kingcab for good measure. It won 1st place at this show ( The Big Show ) for draggin.
Sorry if this is a little off topic but since we were talking about body dropping an xB, I thought one dragging was pretty cool. And just figured I would post a pic of the Master
for all to see. Either way enjoy 
Forwards & Backwards at that !
Here is my buddies Nissan Kingcab for good measure. It won 1st place at this show ( The Big Show ) for draggin.
Sorry if this is a little off topic but since we were talking about body dropping an xB, I thought one dragging was pretty cool. And just figured I would post a pic of the Master
for all to see. Either way enjoy
11-23-2005, 10:14 PM
#31
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Who is that dragging, and what exactly are they dragging? What is their suspension set up?
Not making light of that box... but I used to be able to drag my '99 Dakota R/T using off the shelf static drop components.
Not making light of that box... but I used to be able to drag my '99 Dakota R/T using off the shelf static drop components.
11-23-2005, 10:32 PM
#32
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Defined3
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I have no clue who is draggin the xB or his suspension setup. I do not think he is a member on here though I could be wrong. I do however think that if he was he would have posted them pics before me & I have never seen them on here.
Obviously it is a drag bar that he is draggin. I do not know what he used on the front. My buddies Kingcab also is draggin on a bar on the rear & he also has the plates along the rear wheels to throw it out of the sides of the rear tires. It is under major construction right now for the next season. His truck layes frame & is all custom peiced together. Here is a pic of the rear out of the truck. There were a million pics of the rear in the truck this year on the net & I can't find one at the moment.
The only reason I am posting this is because I WAS going to have this guy do mine & changed my mind. But it is possible to do anything, the guy that built the kingcab said he was up to the challenge on the xB.
Obviously it is a drag bar that he is draggin. I do not know what he used on the front. My buddies Kingcab also is draggin on a bar on the rear & he also has the plates along the rear wheels to throw it out of the sides of the rear tires. It is under major construction right now for the next season. His truck layes frame & is all custom peiced together. Here is a pic of the rear out of the truck. There were a million pics of the rear in the truck this year on the net & I can't find one at the moment.
The only reason I am posting this is because I WAS going to have this guy do mine & changed my mind. But it is possible to do anything, the guy that built the kingcab said he was up to the challenge on the xB.
11-23-2005, 10:32 PM
#33
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Scikotics
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Rton20s..............
man thanks a lot.......on the help....but i can;t none of that ____ i wish i could but no tools of that kind or whatever i rather take it somewhere to get it done..............
do you know where the ptatautowerks whatever its called located.............i tried to search for it but doesn';t give me a contact info or nothing like that..........thanks bro...
man thanks a lot.......on the help....but i can;t none of that ____ i wish i could but no tools of that kind or whatever i rather take it somewhere to get it done..............
do you know where the ptatautowerks whatever its called located.............i tried to search for it but doesn';t give me a contact info or nothing like that..........thanks bro...
11-23-2005, 10:40 PM
#34
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Defined3
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PS : There are more shots of the Nissan & many other creations on this site if anyone is interested in checking it out. He is the guy who built the Nissan & that is the Nissan in the intro, Pretty cool !!! http://www.k-otickustomz.com/
Also here is a link to what I posted when I was inquiring about draggin the xB. Some pretty cool responses & some pics of layed out xB's. These guys were very helpful & there are some other people who shot out offers to me on here for air setups & Ideas ! You may have to register to view or chat but there is some bad as$ stuff on here if you are into this sort of thing.
http://www.dropndrag.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3419
Also here is a link to what I posted when I was inquiring about draggin the xB. Some pretty cool responses & some pics of layed out xB's. These guys were very helpful & there are some other people who shot out offers to me on here for air setups & Ideas ! You may have to register to view or chat but there is some bad as$ stuff on here if you are into this sort of thing.
http://www.dropndrag.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3419
11-23-2005, 10:44 PM
#35
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Wow... that is a whole lot of work to make a behind axle bag mounts and crossmember look pretty. Not to offend your friend or anything. Too each their own. I would definitely ditch the maltese cross before I his the show scene though.
11-23-2005, 10:49 PM
#36
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Defined3
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The cross is the symbol of the place who built the truck, the logo runs across & down the cross. He bought the truck with all of this already done & actually was thinking of removing it. He is just now making it his own.
But good luck everyone with what you all decide, just wanted to share some pics & info. The sky is the limit
But good luck everyone with what you all decide, just wanted to share some pics & info. The sky is the limit
11-23-2005, 10:50 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by elegancexb
Rton20s..............
man thanks a lot.......on the help....but i can;t none of that poop i wish i could but no tools of that kind or whatever i rather take it somewhere to get it done..............
do you know where the ptatautowerks whatever its called located.............i tried to search for it but doesn';t give me a contact info or nothing like that..........thanks bro...
man thanks a lot.......on the help....but i can;t none of that poop i wish i could but no tools of that kind or whatever i rather take it somewhere to get it done..............
do you know where the ptatautowerks whatever its called located.............i tried to search for it but doesn';t give me a contact info or nothing like that..........thanks bro...
12-18-2005, 06:14 PM
#40
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Once I finish the doors I will be laying mine on the ground with 20s. There is alot alot alot... alot... of work to do. The rear axle has to be extened outwards a coupl einches then the spring purch has to be dropped a few inches plus the door jam and door need to be cut out. Then onnto the front Ill be pretty much doing whats above but I think Im going to stick the the struts if I can and weld my camber plates into the top so theres a good amout of adjustment.
Happy Trails...
Happy Trails...