boxblobb

Hi everyone,

First off, thanks for reading. I’m new and glad to be here. I’m considering buying a 2005 xB from a private seller with 79k for $5500 (has lived in CA & OR) & I’m trying to make sense of my pre-purchase inspection results before I pull the trigger. I’m in love but I’m trying to make sure I’m not just emotionally buying this thing because I don’t want to fall down the rabbit hole of issues due to some definite neglect on the owners’ part. It’s been mostly just sitting outside for the last couple years, and spotily maintained overall. It's not a play car for me, it needs to reliably get me around!

If I'm understanding correctly, it sounds like he recommends...

• oil change (no sticker; history report lists last change in 201
• transmission fluid change (was changed in Nov 2020 but looks dark/old)
• brake flush
• preventatively replacing the radiator, heater core & intake hoses due to age
• rear drum brake clean & adjustment (due to age & mileage, and to correct the extensive parking brake travel)
• ABS diagnosis & likely replacement of main unit (dash "BRAKE" light is stuck on)
• preventatively replacing water pump (small coolant leakage)

It’s idling a little rough but engine health was great aside from more sludge than normal for its miles & exhaust tested well. Spark plugs were changed in Nov 2020.

A few other things mentioned in the report (attached) about power steering pump being saturated in oil and a small coolant leak there. Said I could limp by and monitor level. Also “excessively rich” engine fuel trim.

Also the power door locks don’t work (so neither does the fab), nor do the rear power windows.

The body & cosmetic condition is not super great, definitely a bit rough, w/ dented/bent bumpers.

It seems like the recommended work will really add up (even if I left the locks & windows out) so I hope to use the results to negotiate on the price. I would love help assessing what’s important to address now/soon, so I can negotiate…. I have more info if anyone needs that to form an opinion.

Thanks a million to anyone taking the time to read this and help me make sense of it. I am SOOO ready to stop riding the bus hours a day and have a car again…. in the homestretch of this long process!

Hope to be a part of this club going forward if I pull the trigger…. feeling called to the box life ...

(Hope I chose the right sub-forum for this. Also posting in a couple other Scion forums, which I hope is ok etiquette)

boxblobb

i guess i don't mean "risky" so much as "smart." It's hard to tell if it's a fair price because the KBB value is so low but I see them being sold for all over the place.

boxblobb

Update...
Turns out his reports tend to be somewhat misleading because they are so damn thorough, it can make it seem like there’s a million things wrong, when really he’s just naming all the things that could be done.

After more research & discussion with him, looks more like most of the stuff could wait (transmission fluid, rear brakes, water pump, hoses, spark plugs, fuel trim diagnostics - richness is still within normal limits). So that leaves just feeling out if I am okay living without ABS, rear windows and power locks.

Today he said:

“It’s a cheaper/budget car, other than the poor paintwork and cosmetic condition, mechanically it appears to be intact with the ABS issue being the most “major” or expensive issue to repair. If you could find a similar scion with even twice the miles for the same price with everything working, I would probably lean that way personally.”

So now I am just deciding if I want to
A. buy it and do some minimal maintenance (oil and maybe change brake fluid) and just wait a thousand miles to worry about anything, enjoying the hell out of it in the meantime
B. wait for another first gen to go on sale in my area (Portland, OR) under 150k w/ great maintenance records, which could be awhile…. or
C. move forward on a first gen rav4…. or just cave and get a 2010’s honda fit….

Yes, I know I’m all over the place! But I make sense to me at least ;-)

DannoXYZ

Where’s inspection report?

All those items listed can done over time. All fluids 1st and rest over course of year.

Most critical is engine innards as that is most critical and will end up totalling car if you have engine troubles. Did you get compression/leakdown test? What are the numbers?

boxblobb

Hey DannoXYZ, thanks for your reply.

He uses some advanced exhaust analyzer tests and other means, vs a compression test. He explains why but skipping to the results, he says:

"Internal Headgasket Pass - no exhaust gasses or oil noted in cooling system"

"Exhaust Gas Readings/Emissions - The exhaust analyzer reads about 15-16% CO2 and less than 0PPM HC, indicating the engine is clean burning/currently running at peak efficiency"

"The engine fuels trims are rich per computer; they are more than -11% but still within normal limits (+/- 20% from 0). Maintenance or service work may be in order"
when I asked for clarity he said
"It’s ok, but it is having to adjust suggesting spark plugs, intake leak, dirty throttle etc may be the reason it’s not nearer to 0...."

"When in gear the idle was a little on the rough side - not as smooth as expected, some basic fuel induction work/cleaning and/or spark plugs may smoothen out the idle. Engine/motor mount wear could contribute. No other issues noted, the engine runs smoothly and sounds healthy."
(you can see at times he's suggesting possible causes or improvements vs. saying something is wrong and needs immediate attention, this took me a minute to realize bc I assumed the worst in my initial post)

When I asked more about the transmission fluid, because it was changed Nov 2020 and not many miles have been driven since then, he said it's more dark-ish relative to new, vs. dark/dirty/black/old. He just kind of reports what he sees. It being aged from sitting around is my guess.

I drove a 2006 with 179k yesterday that's had consistent maintenance. It was so smooth and clean and I almost pulled the trigger, but I don't trust the Toyota dealership "multi point inspection" to be worth much and wanted to sleep on it since 100k more miles is not insignificant. Also my inspector isn't free until Friday and they won't hold the car. So yeah, leaning back towards this 2005 w/ 78k especially since the owner seems to be willing to work with me on the price.

Any more thoughts with this new info, Danno?
Thanks again