scott_scheffer

Hi all,
I live in L.A. my Catalytic Converter is throwing a Code. It's a 2006 xB and in Cali they have this thing called CARB (California Air Regulations Board.) Its less of a problem with older cars but they are really strict with anything newer. I found some shockingly cheap
MagnaFlow models on Amazon that are CARB compliant. I'd like to order quickly so I can gidderdunn.I think the exhaust going into the Cat is a different size than coming out. Is that right? So I'll need at least one adaptor. Anyone know the two different diameters?
Also, the Cats that I'd like to choose from (because of the price) have different lengths. One of them is 2 inch inlet and outlet at a 13 inch length. Another is 3 inch inlet/outlet at 16 inches long

(I'm sure that diameter is too big,) and a 3rd one is 2.5 inch inlet/outlet and 13 inches long. I'm leaning toward the 1st and I can adapt one or both sides. But does anyone have advice off the top of their head?
Tomorrow I can get it up on stands and do some measuring if needed. But if anyone else knows the dimensions and would do me a square that would save me some mucking around.

Thanks a lot,
Scott


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RichBinAZ

Sure it isn't just the O2 sensor?
I hear the front one fails before the back one as it runs hotter

scott_scheffer

Already replaced the upstream O2 sensor. Thank you though. Wish it were just that.

18TTony

You CANNOT buy a catalytic converter online.....not in California anyways. You can attempt to purchase one online, but at the end of the buying process, you will be denied purchase because California won't allow online purchase of catalytic converters.


​​​​​​That being said, DO NOT buy any "universal" fit converter. You'll end up spending more money for adapters and having the damn thing welded on. You can buy the "Direct Fit" catalytic converters at any retail auto parts store. The Magna flow catalytic converters are CARB approved and come with a 5 year warranty.

You absolutely, MUST have a California catalytic converter because it will have the proper ID markings on it. New York and Texas catalytic converters function the same as California converters, but they lack the California CARB approval markings. California smog techs are now required to physically/visually confirm that the CARB markings are on the converters.

Again, that being said, what code is your Check Engine light showing? Is it code P0420? If so, you can easily install an oxygen sensor spacer (more commonly referred to as a Check Engine Light eliminator. Google it).

Install the spacer, clear the code. Drive the car as you normally would for at least 3 days (3 days will complete 3 drive cycles). Then remove the spacer and go directly to any smog shop and pass the inspection. The engine light will turn back on eventually, but not before emissions testing if you do as I've described.

Catalytic converter: $500+
Oxygen sensor spacer: $10 online.

Every single one of my cars have hollowed out catalytic converters. I install the spacers and remove them right before smog inspections.
Pass inspections every damn time.

scott_scheffer

Thank you 18TTony. This is good information. I had already put the O2 sensor in and still got the same code. I didn't know they'd cancel the purchase for a CARB approved Cat online. I had planned on getting a universal, CARB approved one and welding it in myself, adapters and all. But the cheapest one I could find was $766, and a friend kept telling me he knew a guy would do it for $500. I went to him, he did it and it passed. I keep puzzling over how he could do it so cheap and where he could buy one cheap enough. I wonder now if he used your method. I didn't know about the spacers. Very curious. It's a big deal in Cali and I always have friends coming to me asking for solutions.

DannoXYZ

You most certainly buy new catalytics in CA! Just have to make sure it's a CARB-compliant model with EO-exemption # stamped on it. Look up this site for EO# for your particular model: https://ssl.arb.ca.gov/AftermarketParts/catalysts . Quick search shows this Bosal unit available at NAPA. Jobbers get discount for $246.99 in this case.

Just recently bought this one for my other car: Interestingly, both 2.5" and 3.0" had same EO#. I suppose it's tied to model of car.

Here's chopping off old catalytic. Note adapter cones I made (on box) to adapt 3.0" catalytic to factory 70mm exhaust tubing. Previous owner had installed 2.5" cat and necked down flow at this point.



Welded it up and re-installed under car. Total time = 3.0hrs. A little longer than usual because my car has double-exhaust pipes with smaller parallel one for wastegate dump. And I wanted do clean install with even welds all way around rather than lazy exhaust-shop method of doing it on car and end up with alignment issues and leaky welds.

scott_scheffer

Thanks a lot for that info! Much appreciated.

scionet

2 years ago we went found out there was a spacer on the car. It's an automatic visual fail so we had to take it off. Meanwhile we changed the
Car Vacuum Switch Valve Purge Solenoid, air filter, oil, cataclean and cleared code. We passed smog but now we know why. the car ran ruff, we put the spacer on and off and honestly can't remember what else we did to stop the ruff idle. Fast forward 2 years and it will not pass smog, couldn't find the spacer in the garage, but went ahead and changed out the
Car Vacuum Switch Valve Purge Solenoid, both upper and lower 02 sensors, changed oil, air filter, spark plugs and 2 rounds of cataclean. Still have check engine light and won't pass. now its time to find that spacer, run it for 3 days then take the smog test. I will not pay $1500 or more for a converter for a car worth only $2500. I like the car though, very very relievable @ 160,000 miles still runs great even with the check engine light.