HELP!!! A/C Not Blowing Cold on 2006.5 Scion xB
Thread Starter
Senior Member


DeepSouth Scions
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 150
From: Sevierville, TN
Hey Guys....I have been reading & searching to the point where my brain is mush.
I need help diagnosing what is going on with my xB's A/C.
Here is what I have found out so far:
1. Coolant pressure & levels are good.
2. Compressor engages as it should.
3. Fan blows properly at all 4 settings out of all the vents
4. A/C was blowing cool on the outside 2 vents, but is now blowing hot everywhere.
5. Anytime the A/C is on....it blows hot.
6. Running air from outside will be cool.
7. The fuze is not blown.
What am I missing?
What else can cause the A/C to blow warm/hot?
Any help you guys can offer would be GREATLY appreciated!
Here is what I have found out so far:
1. Coolant pressure & levels are good.
2. Compressor engages as it should.
3. Fan blows properly at all 4 settings out of all the vents
4. A/C was blowing cool on the outside 2 vents, but is now blowing hot everywhere.
5. Anytime the A/C is on....it blows hot.
6. Running air from outside will be cool.
7. The fuze is not blown.
What am I missing?
What else can cause the A/C to blow warm/hot?
Any help you guys can offer would be GREATLY appreciated!
There was issue with the A/C on the early xB's when they came out ask your dealer if your car was affected.
Or if they have any ideas. I see yours is a 06 but never hurts to ask.
_____
Or if they have any ideas. I see yours is a 06 but never hurts to ask.
_____
Last edited by MR_LUV; May 5, 2019 at 01:28 AM. Reason: Awarded 10 Yr Badge
I would have it recharged..if your worried about your ac system leaking they can add a dye to your refrigerant to help them locate leaks..
my 05 blew hot...we recharged it and had the dye put in..they had the car for a day and found no leaks
total cost was under 150.00 at the stealership
my 05 blew hot...we recharged it and had the dye put in..they had the car for a day and found no leaks
total cost was under 150.00 at the stealership
Senior Member



Music City Scions
SL Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,808
From: West TN - Land of twisty roads
What he says plus give the condenser a good once over looking for rock damage. Other have reported issues with leaky condensers. Also, remember if you need a new condenser you will also need a new reciever/dryer cause it will be contaminated from being exposed to outside air and moisture.
if your condensor is leaking you should see some oil where ever the leak is coming from. The AC system has its own oil which would leak out and leave a nice visible spot on the condensor if the condensor had a leak. so check for that if your still having a problem.
Thread Starter
Senior Member


DeepSouth Scions
SL Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 150
From: Sevierville, TN
if your condensor is leaking you should see some oil where ever the leak is coming from. The AC system has its own oil which would leak out and leave a nice visible spot on the condensor if the condensor had a leak. so check for that if your still having a problem.
Senior Member



Music City Scions
SL Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,808
From: West TN - Land of twisty roads
The leaked oil will not make it to the ground. It only covers the surrounding area and should not be dripping. It will give you a good idea where the leak is tho.
A couple of items of note:
Put a thermometer into the center air 'register'. (A/C thermometers can be found at a decent auto parts store.)
Put a fan in front of the radiator and turn it on (high). This will simulate driving at highway speeds. Air really needs to be blowing across the condenser coil(s) to strip the heat away from them.
Also set the a/c to 'recirculate' the inside air. When an a/c unit is sucking in outside air (especially when temps are 95° +) it takes longer to cool the inside of a vehicle.
You said that coolant pressure and levels are good. That won't have any effect on the a/c. A/C is a product of stripping heat from the refrigerant (condenser, in front of radiator)
and passing it through an evaporator (inside vehicle) and stripping the cold from it, into the passenger compartment via the blower/fan.
A/C is a completely different cooling system than the engine's cooling system.
With that said, take a look at the 'receiver/drier' area, near the firewall.
(You might see a 'service' port where a technician will connect a 'manifold' to check pressures and charge the system. It will have a cap on it.)
Is there condensation forming on the refrigerant lines, or are they frozen over??
Are the lines cold to the touch, or are they warm??
If they are cold, or 'sweating', there is most likely 'some' refrigerant charge, but, if these lines are hot or even frozen over (you might see a hunk of ice!), then the system is low.
An A/C technician is your best bet for determining if the system is low.
An overcharged system will malfunction as easily as an undercharged system.
It's been a long time since I've messed with A/C units, but, at 90°+ temps, the refrigerant pressures will be 45-50+ lbs.
Again, if you don't know about A/C systems, take it to someone that does.
(If you get refrigerant/oil in your eyes. . . it's gonna hurt like a. . . ahem. . . female dog!)
________
Put a thermometer into the center air 'register'. (A/C thermometers can be found at a decent auto parts store.)
Put a fan in front of the radiator and turn it on (high). This will simulate driving at highway speeds. Air really needs to be blowing across the condenser coil(s) to strip the heat away from them.
Also set the a/c to 'recirculate' the inside air. When an a/c unit is sucking in outside air (especially when temps are 95° +) it takes longer to cool the inside of a vehicle.
You said that coolant pressure and levels are good. That won't have any effect on the a/c. A/C is a product of stripping heat from the refrigerant (condenser, in front of radiator)
and passing it through an evaporator (inside vehicle) and stripping the cold from it, into the passenger compartment via the blower/fan.
A/C is a completely different cooling system than the engine's cooling system.
With that said, take a look at the 'receiver/drier' area, near the firewall.
(You might see a 'service' port where a technician will connect a 'manifold' to check pressures and charge the system. It will have a cap on it.)
Is there condensation forming on the refrigerant lines, or are they frozen over??
Are the lines cold to the touch, or are they warm??
If they are cold, or 'sweating', there is most likely 'some' refrigerant charge, but, if these lines are hot or even frozen over (you might see a hunk of ice!), then the system is low.
An A/C technician is your best bet for determining if the system is low.
An overcharged system will malfunction as easily as an undercharged system.
It's been a long time since I've messed with A/C units, but, at 90°+ temps, the refrigerant pressures will be 45-50+ lbs.
Again, if you don't know about A/C systems, take it to someone that does.
(If you get refrigerant/oil in your eyes. . . it's gonna hurt like a. . . ahem. . . female dog!)
________
Last edited by MR_LUV; May 5, 2019 at 01:33 AM. Reason: Awarded 10 Yr Badge
How hot is hot? Ambient temp or like the heat is on? Have you turned the heat up and noticed a further difference in temp?
I'm thinking possible blend door issue.
Did you ever figure out the problem?
I'm having the same problem..
i just realize that 2006 xB doesn't have A/C amplifier.
any suggestion will be greatly appreciated..
Thanks
_____
I'm having the same problem..
i just realize that 2006 xB doesn't have A/C amplifier.
any suggestion will be greatly appreciated..
Thanks
_____
Last edited by MR_LUV; May 5, 2019 at 01:34 AM.
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