How many miles out of your original OEM Brake Pads?
07-15-2008, 02:05 AM
#41
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Originally Posted by midtowndesi
looks like i got the poop end of the stick- i had to change my pads at ONLY 14K MILES!!!!!!! all the stop n go here in nyc is killer man.... had to get the discs resurfaced too.
im at 24k miles on the dot right now and the front brakes feel a little funny. next time im going to the dealer for an oil change (25k miles), i'm going to ask what the problem with the front brakes. when i am on an uphill and reversing, as i apply the brakes, i hear a knocking sound coming from the front wheel wells.
when the dealer tells me the problem, im going to take my car to a non-dealer mechanic and have it fixed ;-D l0l
im at 24k miles on the dot right now and the front brakes feel a little funny. next time im going to the dealer for an oil change (25k miles), i'm going to ask what the problem with the front brakes. when i am on an uphill and reversing, as i apply the brakes, i hear a knocking sound coming from the front wheel wells.
when the dealer tells me the problem, im going to take my car to a non-dealer mechanic and have it fixed ;-D l0l
same here, been there for close to 40k miles, let me know whats up with the knock
I'm at 50k and I'm going to inspect them this week
07-15-2008, 05:18 PM
#42
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Just about 23K on the factory originals. I bought some stock toyota new ones, and then lucked into a set of the rotorworks drilled and slotted rotors and matching pads they sell on ebay all the time for like 150 shipped. Hows 40 bucks for brand new stuff, threw them in, and nice, espcially since I finally got wheels, you can see the the fronts now..neat. They seem to work as well as stock, maybe even a tad better. So the stock rotors are on the shelf waiting to get cut, as my one wear indicator broke off, just as the true wear indicator got goin.Got to love craigs list once in a blue moon.
07-16-2008, 04:57 AM
#44
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I think my first set was about 80K..
I knew it was time but the main reason was the rotors were warped and it was annoying to feel the drag on and off when I would stop. I do change them more now and wouldn't let it go that far! As a tip when you get new pads even if you don't get new rotors make sure to have the stocks rotors resurfaced it is cheap and will make your new pads last longer not to mention work better! BTW my rears are still stock and last I looked there was plenty of pad left on the shoes however they do need adjusting once and a while.
I knew it was time but the main reason was the rotors were warped and it was annoying to feel the drag on and off when I would stop. I do change them more now and wouldn't let it go that far! As a tip when you get new pads even if you don't get new rotors make sure to have the stocks rotors resurfaced it is cheap and will make your new pads last longer not to mention work better! BTW my rears are still stock and last I looked there was plenty of pad left on the shoes however they do need adjusting once and a while.
07-23-2008, 02:59 PM
#46
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hmmm ... i got my box used at about 25K, and now i'm pretty much at 50K ... not sure if i felt anything wrong or weakening with the brakes.
does anyone know if the dealer replaces pads/rotors when they buy/inspect/recondition the car for sale? my guess would be no ...
and what brand of pads/rotors do people usually like to use? i know i want the semi-metallic kind, but Axxis, Hawk, Project Mu, StopTech, EBC ... ???
does anyone know if the dealer replaces pads/rotors when they buy/inspect/recondition the car for sale? my guess would be no ...
and what brand of pads/rotors do people usually like to use? i know i want the semi-metallic kind, but Axxis, Hawk, Project Mu, StopTech, EBC ... ???
07-23-2008, 05:11 PM
#47
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and what brand of pads/rotors do people usually like to use? i know i want the semi-metallic kind, but Axxis, Hawk, Project Mu, StopTech, EBC ... ???
I do a lot of Canyon racing and track racing, and I daily drive my xB. The following are my recomendations:
Rotors:
Powerslot slotted rotors. I don't like slotted and drilled rotors because they tend to warp easier. I do a lot of heavy braking so slotted is better for the intial bite.
Brake lines:
Technafit makes a great brake line for around $90 for the full set. They're obviously stainless steel braided but they also come teflon coated so debris can't get into the braids.
Pads:
I've used Axxis ultimates for my past 4 sets. My next set is either going to be Hawk or Porterfield.
Brake Fluid:
Motul RBF 600
The Powerslot rotors, Technafit lines, RBF600, and Axxis Ultimates never failed on me. I've had these things glowing red throwing sparks one night in the canyons and I still managed to not have any brake fade!
Rotors:
Powerslot slotted rotors. I don't like slotted and drilled rotors because they tend to warp easier. I do a lot of heavy braking so slotted is better for the intial bite.
Brake lines:
Technafit makes a great brake line for around $90 for the full set. They're obviously stainless steel braided but they also come teflon coated so debris can't get into the braids.
Pads:
I've used Axxis ultimates for my past 4 sets. My next set is either going to be Hawk or Porterfield.
Brake Fluid:
Motul RBF 600
The Powerslot rotors, Technafit lines, RBF600, and Axxis Ultimates never failed on me. I've had these things glowing red throwing sparks one night in the canyons and I still managed to not have any brake fade!
09-29-2013, 12:52 AM
#48
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Resurrecting this thread to add some data:
First OEM set lasted 50K miles of suburban driving. They were really thin when I replaced them.
Second set, OEM with an expensive set of revised shims lasted another 50K miles, but went metal-to-metal before I caught it.
It was a Sunday and I needed the car so the rotors went to NAPA for turning and I installed NAPA brake pads. The NAPA pads were less expensive and included the shims that were separate on the OEM pads.
THE NAPA pads went 40K miles before they started a nasty squeaking. I thought that I had damaged the rotors again, but upon disassembly I found that the Napa pads had a warning tab that squeaks against the rotor when the pads are about 80% gone. The rotors were fine and the pads still had 2mm left but I changed them out for another set of NAPA shoes., grateful that the aftermarket pad design gives a warning before the pad is completely used up.
I also note that my inboard pads wear a bit faster than the outboard pad. I've always checked the easily-visible outboard pad and assumed the inboard pad is the same, but that idea may be troublesome if one lets the pads get too thin.
First OEM set lasted 50K miles of suburban driving. They were really thin when I replaced them.
Second set, OEM with an expensive set of revised shims lasted another 50K miles, but went metal-to-metal before I caught it.
It was a Sunday and I needed the car so the rotors went to NAPA for turning and I installed NAPA brake pads. The NAPA pads were less expensive and included the shims that were separate on the OEM pads.
THE NAPA pads went 40K miles before they started a nasty squeaking. I thought that I had damaged the rotors again, but upon disassembly I found that the Napa pads had a warning tab that squeaks against the rotor when the pads are about 80% gone. The rotors were fine and the pads still had 2mm left but I changed them out for another set of NAPA shoes., grateful that the aftermarket pad design gives a warning before the pad is completely used up.
I also note that my inboard pads wear a bit faster than the outboard pad. I've always checked the easily-visible outboard pad and assumed the inboard pad is the same, but that idea may be troublesome if one lets the pads get too thin.
10-16-2013, 03:30 PM
#49
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city driving is a killer on brake pads! i only have 5,100 miles on my current xb, but i recall when i had my brand new 06 xb, my 1st pads lasted maybe 17k miles before they started scratching up the rotors and needed to be replaced...
i replaced them with better quality pads and those too lasted maybe 15k miles. i had them changed then wound up trading in my xb.
i replaced them with better quality pads and those too lasted maybe 15k miles. i had them changed then wound up trading in my xb.
10-17-2013, 04:24 PM
#50
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OEM fronts lasted about 60k miles, suburban driving. Replaced with Duralast Gold Cmax pads with integrated shims. Cost was about $55 for the pads and a 12-pack to the guy who turned the rotors. Rears are still OEM, with 77k mi. currently.
02-25-2016, 08:07 PM
#54
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I just did my front brakes 3 days ago. 2006 car. 59,300 miles. Wisconsin. I found the caliper pins were frozen on each side, so they were dragging on the rotor. No wonder my mileage dropped. I checked my back drums yesterday, and they are about half way gone. I will rebuild them this summer. The garage floor is like 15F.
02-26-2016, 09:09 PM
#56
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I've replaced my brake pads once at about 40K. I bought my 06xB in Oct, 2005 and for a long time I barely put any miles on it.
My approx mileage history:
Jan 07: 6K
Jan 09: 14K
Jan 11: 22K
From Jan 2011 to present I've put on 38K so now my odometer is sitting right at 60K. Not bad for 10+ years.
My approx mileage history:
Jan 07: 6K
Jan 09: 14K
Jan 11: 22K
From Jan 2011 to present I've put on 38K so now my odometer is sitting right at 60K. Not bad for 10+ years.
03-05-2016, 07:11 PM
#57
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On my first xB (a 2006), I replaced the front pads at 74,000 miles - and they still had about another 5,000 miles left in them. My son now owns that car and he's got 165,000 miles on it. The rear brake shoes are still original and have quite a bit of life left in them.
On my current xB (another 2006), I changed the front pads at 63,000 miles. Again, the rear shoes look like brand new.
On my current xB (another 2006), I changed the front pads at 63,000 miles. Again, the rear shoes look like brand new.
03-14-2016, 06:29 PM
#58
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They'll be rotating the tires as well; something that I still do myself usually, but again . . . as long as they're doing the other stuff, why not?
06-17-2016, 01:28 AM
#59
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Just changed rear shoes first time at 190k miles. Changed front rotors for first time but pads 3rd time. Dealership told son that the breaks were worn out and rotors were grooved. All BS. Shoes still were over 50%. Rotors had standard wear and pads were over 60%. Changed all for his Peace of mind.
