Perrin pulley: Worth the trouble?
06-29-2010, 05:11 PM
#1
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Perrin pulley: Worth the trouble?
So a brand new Perrin lightweight came with my purchase this week. It's still in the box. I haven't decided whether to go to the trouble of installing it. Some folks say it's a good mod, others can't tell the difference once it's done.
If I don't install I will probably sell it.
So, what say you wise ones?
If I don't install I will probably sell it.
So, what say you wise ones?
06-29-2010, 06:16 PM
#3
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That's pretty much what it comes down to. I don't really want to install it, as I don't have a place to do the work, or the tools right now. Maybe hang onto it until I have my house and a garage...
06-29-2010, 10:17 PM
#5
I had a horrible experience with them.. so.. I'd sell it.. But.. mine was an NST. While it worked.. it helped at highway speeds, but didn't do much on the low end. If you're going to install it.. Make sure you torque the crap out of the bolt.. because if it comes loose it will sheer the alignment pin and kill your entire charging and cooling system.. because the serpentine belt will stop running. While it works..it works great, but if something goes wrong.. lamest thing in the world.
06-30-2010, 01:40 AM
#7
I have been reading the NST pulley thread. It has a few tips and tricks on how to install it and the benefits. All you need is basic tools, air gun, pulley remover, and torque wrench. Torque it to 110 and you should be ok in the long run. To give you an idea of how tight 110 is, the lugs on your wheel is usually torqued between 80-90.
06-30-2010, 05:56 AM
#8
I have been reading the NST pulley thread. It has a few tips and tricks on how to install it and the benefits. All you need is basic tools, air gun, pulley remover, and torque wrench. Torque it to 110 and you should be ok in the long run. To give you an idea of how tight 110 is, the lugs on your wheel is usually torqued between 80-90.
06-30-2010, 06:01 AM
#9
Why pay a shop when you can do it yourself. Trust me, you feel a whole lot better once you try to do it yourself. You learn more and that experience ends up filtering through all your other life situations. Live and learn. Not live and be lazy/clueless.
06-30-2010, 07:36 PM
#11
Domo, you have no idea how hard the header install was for me. That like ended my DIY career. Plus I have no torque wrench and no air gun.
07-01-2010, 03:15 AM
#14
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I give anyone credit for trying.If the header gave you trouble id def not advise you try.You have the belts etc to deal with,just ask a shop im sure you can find someone to do it cheap or ask if someone can help you out.
07-02-2010, 06:58 AM
#16
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07-07-2010, 10:35 PM
#19
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It does reduce the mass of the pulley that has to be rotated faster with each RPM, so it reduces the apparent weight of the car as long as the RPMs are increasing. People notice slightly faster acceleration, and call it more HP.
On the downside, you are paying a lot of money to replace a highly engineered Toyota item called "Part No. 13407-21020, Damper Assembly, $217", which has a rubber ring insert for a specific purpose. It is a harmonic damper to dampen vibrations inherent in the firing order of a 4 cylinder engine.
Never remove the factory crank pulley on any engine to replace it with a performance pulley or light weight performance pulley. To replace the factory engineered pulley... will hurt the performance/reliability of your engine not help it. Toyota and many other manufactures such as BMW, Porsche, Mercedes all use dual mode damper pulley designs in all their engines... The factory stock pulley is designed to absorb both torsion and bending lateral vibration from the crankshaft. This helps the crankshaft deal with high vibration in the 400 Hz range after the #1 piston fires. Overall this
has many benefits on the bottom end. It helps the crank deal with high
continuous loads as well as overall bearing life, not to mention overall
engine life. Also the drive-line will have a more pleasing sound with very little 400Hz vibe's setting up...
http://www.suprasonic.org/public_htm...atedamper.html
has many benefits on the bottom end. It helps the crank deal with high
continuous loads as well as overall bearing life, not to mention overall
engine life. Also the drive-line will have a more pleasing sound with very little 400Hz vibe's setting up...
http://www.suprasonic.org/public_htm...atedamper.html
