r1concepts.com for braking wants or needs!
#1
r1concepts.com for braking wants or needs!
I purchased Hawk brake pads and new slotted rotors from Steven at
r1concepts. http://www.r1concepts.com/
I was very pleased with the transaction. Prices and shipping were great.
They made new rotors specially for me and they look very nice.
Here they are, zinc plated:
Will probably install them tomorrow.
I'll post a couple pics of them installed then.
r1concepts. http://www.r1concepts.com/
I was very pleased with the transaction. Prices and shipping were great.
They made new rotors specially for me and they look very nice.
Here they are, zinc plated:
Will probably install them tomorrow.
I'll post a couple pics of them installed then.
#2
zman, let me know how you like them and how hard the install was. I have no idea how to install brake pads let alone new rotors, but i hate the stock rotors. id also like to change the brake calliper to maybe a different color. itll probably be a project to tackle later this year for me.
#3
zman, let me know how you like them and how hard the install was. I have no idea how to install brake pads let alone new rotors, but i hate the stock rotors. id also like to change the brake calliper to maybe a different color. itll probably be a project to tackle later this year for me.
Caliper paint is widely available. I got some at Autozone. I got red even though yellow would make more sense with my theme. Red just looks the best.
Check out these Tech DIYs:
Brake Rotor install.
Brake painting.
Last edited by Zman; 04-24-2010 at 04:34 AM.
#5
zman, let me know how you like them and how hard the install was. I have no idea how to install brake pads let alone new rotors, but i hate the stock rotors. id also like to change the brake calliper to maybe a different color. itll probably be a project to tackle later this year for me.
I have a tC.... but the principles are the same when working on/ installing disc brakes. I'm actually a mechanic, and I've been building custom cars for many years. Tackling that sort of a project isn't too bad even for a relative noob. It's a pretty straight forward project. Just get the right direction before you start.
If you have questions, feel free to shoot me an email and I'll help guide ya through it.
#8
#10
I got them installed. It started to rain on me so I couldn't add multiple coats of caliper paint or anything!
Since I have 94k miles, WD40 and the heat gun were needed to break the caliper bolts loose. That was not fun. It made it take a lot longer than it needed to. Since its wet out, I went to the church across the street and did a couple stops and they just stutter then lock up quickly. Maybe they grip too well, haha. They look a hell of a lot better of course. I'll see how the Hawk pads do on the dry road in a few days. It's supposed to keep raining.
I am so glad that they didn't end up rubbing the rotor or anything. The old pads were certainly a lot thinner than these.
Since I have 94k miles, WD40 and the heat gun were needed to break the caliper bolts loose. That was not fun. It made it take a lot longer than it needed to. Since its wet out, I went to the church across the street and did a couple stops and they just stutter then lock up quickly. Maybe they grip too well, haha. They look a hell of a lot better of course. I'll see how the Hawk pads do on the dry road in a few days. It's supposed to keep raining.
I am so glad that they didn't end up rubbing the rotor or anything. The old pads were certainly a lot thinner than these.
Last edited by Zman; 04-25-2010 at 05:21 PM.
#11
I hope you used brake cleaner Zman...
wd40 will ruin your new pads and rotors
one of the most important things to know about brakes it do not use petrolium products on your rotors or brake pads..
grease, oil, wd40 and the like will cause hot spots on your rotors and they will glaze and ruin your pads
wd40 will ruin your new pads and rotors
one of the most important things to know about brakes it do not use petrolium products on your rotors or brake pads..
grease, oil, wd40 and the like will cause hot spots on your rotors and they will glaze and ruin your pads
#13
New rotors come with an oxidation-prevention coating on them. You always clean them very well with brake cleaner before installing or they brakes will not work the way they should.
As far as using WD40, he meant on the caliper bolts, not on the brakes themselves. That or some good penetrating oil will help break those bolts loose.
You need to bed in the pads. Stop-techs website has good info on doing this. Basically, you need to make 10 very hard braking maneuvers from 60 mph to 10mph back to back, then get the car up to speed for a while to cool the brakes down.. and repeat. Your brakes will work much better and more consistently after doing this.
As far as using WD40, he meant on the caliper bolts, not on the brakes themselves. That or some good penetrating oil will help break those bolts loose.
You need to bed in the pads. Stop-techs website has good info on doing this. Basically, you need to make 10 very hard braking maneuvers from 60 mph to 10mph back to back, then get the car up to speed for a while to cool the brakes down.. and repeat. Your brakes will work much better and more consistently after doing this.
#15
"As far as using WD40, he meant on the caliper bolts, not on the brakes themselves. That or some good penetrating oil will help break those bolts loose. "
I understood that...wd40 will overspray..if you use it anywhere near your brake pads or rotors...do yourself a favor and use brake cleaner..to eliminate any possibility of contamination of petrolium products
I understood that...wd40 will overspray..if you use it anywhere near your brake pads or rotors...do yourself a favor and use brake cleaner..to eliminate any possibility of contamination of petrolium products
#16
"As far as using WD40, he meant on the caliper bolts, not on the brakes themselves. That or some good penetrating oil will help break those bolts loose. "
I understood that...wd40 will overspray..if you use it anywhere near your brake pads or rotors...do yourself a favor and use brake cleaner..to eliminate any possibility of contamination of petrolium products
I understood that...wd40 will overspray..if you use it anywhere near your brake pads or rotors...do yourself a favor and use brake cleaner..to eliminate any possibility of contamination of petrolium products
I took them back off and sprayed them with brake cleaner. A lot of stuff came off of them.
I did one set of stops for a bed in procedure. The brakes were radiating heat. I just read the whole Stop tech procedure, it is very helpful, thanks!
Should the color of the pads (black) rub off on the rotor at all?
Last edited by Zman; 04-26-2010 at 12:22 AM.
#17
Next time, however, I'll have to paint my calipers and drums -- that wasn't an issue when I was running Moon discs.
#18
"As far as using WD40, he meant on the caliper bolts, not on the brakes themselves. That or some good penetrating oil will help break those bolts loose. "
I understood that...wd40 will overspray..if you use it anywhere near your brake pads or rotors...do yourself a favor and use brake cleaner..to eliminate any possibility of contamination of petrolium products
I understood that...wd40 will overspray..if you use it anywhere near your brake pads or rotors...do yourself a favor and use brake cleaner..to eliminate any possibility of contamination of petrolium products
Good luck getting brake cleaner to free up corroded bolts... cause it wont ;)
You just need to use a spout tube on the penetrating oil an use a bit of common sense and you wont get it near the rotor.
When you put it back together, use a bit of anti seize on the bolts to keep it from getting rusted/crudded up again.
Also, sand the hub surface with some 100 or so grit sand paper and apply a light film of anti seize there and on the studs before placing the rotor on. Then apply a light film of anti seize to the rotor hat surface that the wheel flange sits against. Just use care not to touch the braking surfaces with any anti-seize, grease, etc and dont leave any blobs of it anywhere. The anti-seize will prevent the wheel from getting galded and stuck to the rotor face and prevent the rotor from being hard to break loose next time you take it off.
#19
I used anti-seize on the caliper bolts and for the wheel lugs. I didn't think about using it behind the rotor, it is pretty dirty behind there.
Some poor photos...
Before shot:
Greasy fingers!
Amazing OEM piece
After severe thunderstorms and hail
I can't wait to give her a bath...
Some poor photos...
Before shot:
Greasy fingers!
Amazing OEM piece
After severe thunderstorms and hail
I can't wait to give her a bath...
Last edited by Zman; 04-26-2010 at 03:56 AM.
#20
\i{Good luck getting brake cleaner to free up corroded bolts... cause it wont ;) }
it wont..and usually it isnt neccessary...
I'm ASE certified in brakes
and no matter how you deal with bolts that do not fall off for you..my point is valid and should be taken seriously..
Re: the use of brake cleaner and NOT getting any petrolium products on or near your rotors or brake pads
is what to focus on
Zman..you have a pm
it wont..and usually it isnt neccessary...
I'm ASE certified in brakes
and no matter how you deal with bolts that do not fall off for you..my point is valid and should be taken seriously..
Re: the use of brake cleaner and NOT getting any petrolium products on or near your rotors or brake pads
is what to focus on
Zman..you have a pm
Last edited by MadMike550; 04-26-2010 at 04:23 PM.