xjayhx

So while taking pics of my motor mount I noticed a small drop of tranny fluid on drive way. I know for a fact that it’s the axle seal as it will be the 3rd time playing with it.
First time I think I put it in crooked and it leaked bad.
The second time I took a very long time and precision to put in flat and straight flush with tranny housing. It was good for a couple of months but today I see it’s leaking again. It might of been from jacking motor to do my pulley.
Does anyone know how far to put seal in? Does it need to be flush with tranny housing or farther in? I was an idiot and didn’t take time to inspect before I pulled it out the first time.
I have used new seals from dealer every time I have replaced it. It’s not enough to worry about but it’s staining my drive way and just the thought of tranny fluid leaking is annoying lol
thanx in advance

62Fender

Is it the Driver's side? Ask your dealer if they stock the OEM C-Ring that holds the axel in the gearbox. According to Scotty on Youtube, (aftermarket spindles are great) but many C-Rings are the wrong size.

Too much pressure and or misalignment can cause seal damage. Scotty even recommends using the old C-Ring with the new spindle.

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xjayhx

I’ll check it out. When I get home. When I replaced it I made sure the ring went in. I tried to remove it to make sure. Could a faulty ring cause this even if it’s installed correctly?

62Fender

They're apparently problematic enough for Scotty to avoid using them. And he's a career auto mechanic so...

The only specific instructions in the manual pertaining to installing the spindles are to grease the splines, position the C ring split at the bottom and do not push excessively hard.

xjayhx

Just got home, going to replace my motor mount and while I’m there I’ll check my seal. I was very cautious and patient when replacing the 2nd time. I used the old seal on top of the new seal and a old air fresher can that fit perfect on top of the seal. I then I made sure that it was even and straight and flush with tranny housing maybe. 1/4 inch inside housing.

62Fender

Sounds like everything you did was good, particularly the can tool. Now if I'm not mistaken, the C-ring gap needs to be closed before pushing it through the seal, other wise it may be too fat to go through without damage.

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xjayhx

Well call me a dumbass.
I did my motor mount on passenger side and went to check the axle seal. I went to inspect the C-ring and seal and I must have taken it off and never put it back on. I was wondering why the axle just slid right out with minimal force.
Going to assume that could be the culprit? I checked fluid level in neutral while warm and just below full. And it’s literally a drip here and there. Going to the dealership tomorrow morning to get a C-ring and do it the right way lol.

Want to say thanx to everyone posting and helping me. I will let you guys/gals know how it went.

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xjayhx

noticed it was leaking alot more this morning, i did hit a few bigger than normal speed bumps. well anyway6s got the c-clamp and new seal ordered. guess what im doing tomorrow lol

62Fender

Good luck with the fix.

xjayhx

When I take old seal out should I just replace or should I inspect for damage? Usually a one time gig for seals correct?

62Fender

Sorry for the late reply. Hard to say without looking at it.

When you go to insert the shaft, raise the outboard end an inch or so higher than horizontal. At this angle, inert the shaft until the c ring touches the hole. Now, simultaneously lower the outboard end to horizontal AND push on the shaft. This should close the ring gap and make pushing it in a lot easier. Don't forget to locate the ring gap at the bottom. Otherwise it won't close as easily.

xjayhx

No worries just gone done. What a difference between c-rings. What you mentioned seemed to work after I few tries it just slid in and click. No more leaks. To confirm the depth I put seal flush with housing after lubing with ATF and splines too.
Thank you to all!