So I'm replacing the water pump on my 2008 xB. Just had a couple quick questions... do I need to jack the engine up to replace it?
Do I need to loosen the idler pulley to take the belt off? This is my first time doing a water pump and my tools are limited.

 

I just did this repair with my much more skilled mechanic friend.

Tips:

You need to remove the alternator to get to the water pump. Unhook the battery, then remove the alternator.
Unhook the engine mount on the passage side. Jack the engine up slightly to give you easier access to the pully.
Loosen the bolts for the water pump before loosening the tension on the belt. Did this the hard way.
Drain the radiator, unhooked the coolent jug and moved it out of the way to make more space.

i went on 2008 Scion xB Parts - PartsGeek
Purchased the gates brand water pump.
It comes with a gasket seal. Set the seal in the groove of the water pump for a day or two before hand. That way it sits in the groove naturally. I think I paided like $45 with shipping for the part. I also recommend doing the pull tensor at the same time and throwing on a new serpentine belt.
My scion 2008 xb has 144k. Be sure to clean the area where the engine and water pump meet really well. Scrape all that stuff off.

 

With as much of a PITA this is dont go cheap on the pump, I used a Bosch on my xB1 and it died after 20K. I ended up replacing it with a Aisin/Toyota, the cost was $61 vs the $46 for the bosch but at least I wont be replacing it for a while.


When the pump goes out on my xB2 I'll be going with an Aisin/Toyota.

 

Good afternoon, this past Sunday I replaced the water pump, thermostat and the passenger side engine mount. It took me way too much time. I spent a lot of time trying to get the old gasket material scrapped off and clean. Then I foolishly gooped up the gasket BEFORE figuring out the correct orientation. Nothing like having to repeatedly take on/off the gasket. Do yourself a favor and do a dry run and then mark the two spots on the correct side of the gasket facing the engine before gooping it up. Do the same thing with the pump. Having to raise and lower the engine - depending on my wanting access above or below - added time. I was happy that I'd spent $10 or $13 on an adjustable pulley holder tool. That gave me the leverage I needed in order to remove/re-tighten the 3 bolts on the pulley. A stubby 14 mm ratcheting wrench was quite helpful with the alternator.
I don't see a reason to remove the alternator though I loosened it to get the belt off and provide better access. I also removed the front grill (4 easy clips) which made the thermostat more accessible. I went with the Toyota pump from LongoToyota parts - it was $60 vs $40 AISIN via Amazon. I'd rather spend $20 extra and know it was a legit Toyota part than a fake AISIN through Amazon. Oh and I replaced the short fat hose from the radiator. Those tension based hose clamps are a PITA to loosen and move out of the way. I'd like to replace the two longer hoses if I can get motivated to battle with the clamps again.
Next on the list: crankshaft seal, oil pan gasket to see if the amount of oil this thing is leaking is reduced. I don't know that I'm up for pulling the transmission to get to the rear main seal but we shall see.
I'm presently operating at a 1.5 mechanic hours = 8 of my hours ratio.
312,000 miles, original owner.

 

Definitely replace all the bigger hoses.
One of these type spring clamps???
Aisin is a Toyota subsidiary. Google [ who owns Aisin ]

 

Good morning,
Yes those are the PITA clamps. While I appreciate the author of the video has a clamp sitting out in the open on a nice flat surface, it was a different story for me - hunched over the front of the car, reaching down into the 2-3 inches between the radiator and the engine, trying to squeeze the clamp with adjustable pliers, then Visegrips, etc. These were the original (20 year old) hoses so the clamps had made quite an impression in the rubber - further complicating their removal. Trying to squeeze and get the clamps to slide up out of their matching dents was quite the chore. I greatly prefer stainless steel worm clamps. Unintentionally I managed to get one of the clamps in the lock open mode - doubt I can repeat the steps hunched over the engine, squeezing the clamp with one hand while poking at it with a screwdriver but who knows. If you'd asked me 10 years ago if I could conceive of replacing brakes, starter, engine mount or water pump - the answer would've been no.

Amazon has radiator hose clamp pliers though I need to find one that opens wide enough for the large radiator hoses.

 

While you might like the worm clamps for ease of use the tension loaded clamps are actually better as they have equal clamping force all around the hose unlike the worm clamps that put more pressure right at the worm and less on the opposite side of the hose.

 

The worm clamps (jubilee clips) loosen their grip on the rubber over time, so you need to keep going back and giving them a little tweak.
Spring clamps are a pain, but once they are on you can forget about them.
I did a video of a coolant & hose change, for our corolla. The principle applies to the XB though
You will see me locking up some of the easier to get to hose clamps on the car. The others I just slid down the hose and delt with them on the bench

I used plumbing grease on the hoses to get them to slide on easier. Vaseline works too. If I have to do it again, they should be easier to get off - they do love to stick.
Won't have to worry on the Corolla though as it was hit by an 18 wheeler and went to a scrap yard.