RJSCION

Pretty happy with my most recent time of 14.106 with a pretty horrible 2.3 60 ft... Expect 13.8 or 13.9 within a week!! Just had to start some sort of discussion. I'm boosted, 8 PSI, with full stock block and A/T... Thoughts? I need to reduce some weight somehow I think..

RJSCION

Track Video.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Congrats! That's 1/100 of a sec quicker than my best ET to date making you the quickest auto XB. As a formality would you mind posting the time slip? Just to make it official. I'd also really like to know more about your build.

Well done!

RJSCION

Here you go! The build is pretty basic, actually. I have a full DESCENDANT turbo kit, and that's about all. It's really all in the tune... The A/Fs are absolutely perfect, I'm running at about 11.3 in WOT (LITTLE rich, but it's safe)... PERFECT idling with A/C on or off... the tuner really knew the AEM FIC and my car. (After spending literally 1500 on tuning it at other, horrible places.)

Roller_Toaster

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RJSCION

Yeah... It's really a hassle getting a good tune on the FIC with a 2011 XB. The ECU overwrites all fuel entries on the FIC under 3,000 RPM. I can change the numbers, wake up the next morning, and they will all be reverted to whatever the hell the ECU wanted.

RJSCION

So, my final tune, the tuner went through and redid all of the O2 voltages... it's literally perfect. AND that was my cheapest tune yet, AND I get a free tune if I ever add anything onto my car in the future....... (Manual swap..... must go faster....)

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for posting the time slip. How did you get the FIC to work 100% with the crk and cam sensors? That was my biggest problem with it. After a lot of electrical tweaking it worked okay most of the time but sometimes it would totally flake out. Hard starting, backfires, fuel trims suddenly going from ~0 to -19% requiring me to re-flash the FIC. Maybe my FIC was simply one of the buggy/defective ones that seem to be quite common.

Who did your final tune?

RJSCION

I had to have somebody go through the wiring diagram for my ECU and take the harness and match it perfect. The harnesses are made for MANUAL cars, not AUTOMATIC. There are different wiring that seems to cause unending cam and crank codes... They totally fixed it, I have no harness issues. With the new O2 voltage map from my new tuner, I get perfect (1 sec longer than stock) cold starts. No backfires... Good shifts. I have 2 lean points, but it's because the FIC us fighting with the ECU on 2 points going from open to closed loop... Easy fix my tuner said, but I have no time to drive down. My final tune was from Olympic Motorsports in Margate, Florida. Absolutely OUTSTANDING tuner. Full street tune.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

When I was troubleshooting my Boomslang harness and found the cause of the FIC 12V power-loss, it ocurred to me to check all the connections but being lazy, I decided against it. Apparently I should have dug deeper into the wiring. Another mis-wired connection would explain why the FIC hasn't worked properly for myself or several others I know who tried the FIC on auto XB2s. Glad you got yours sorted out.

It's a shame that there are so many bad tuners out there claiming to know what they're doing. I could hardly believe some of the "professional" FIC tunes that people have sent me. It's obvious that some of these guys don't even understand the basics of how a modern OBD2 EMS works. Not to mention that every "PnP" Descendant kit owner I've spoken with has had to get re-tuned ASAP. Lucky that you found a good tuner.

pyroman131

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RJSCION

As you know, HP is a fictional number. I have yet to Dyno the car with the most recent tune for many reasons (I don't like Dynos). I didn't even tune the car on a Dyno, my tuner refuses to use them for us XBs with our "sophisticated (stupid)" ECUs. BUT, I can probably estimate. Before my most recent tune, I was getting 225 WHP and 220 TQ on a Mustang AWD500 Dyno (they read significantly lower). Now, this tune favored lower RPMs, not higher RPMs... my current tune is almost perfect. With that tune, I could not break below 15.0 on the 1/4 mi. Now, I am running 14.1s... Honestly, I would estimate my HP to be between 270 - 285 and my TQ to be between 260 - 275. I am literally AT the limits of this automatic transmission... I WILL be dyno'ing it very soon once I can get the tune back to street and not the current track tune... it's tuned to do digs @ WOT, not rolling pulls from half throttle and up.



To ScionFred: Yeah, you should have looked into the wiring a little more... you should see my harness lol... It's all these crimper things connecting wires to other wires. And yeah, my tuner was pretty damn good, he also will constantly retune my car if I drive down there, I just tip him. He has tuned it probably 4 or 5 times now because I continue to learn better ways to drive the car (being an automatic) so I can tell him exactly what I want. Because I was racing, I wanted a tune to do just straight pulls from 0 MPH. For street driving, I like to just floor it while doing 40 MPH,

pyroman131

REDACTED

RJSCION

Absolutely! It's worth it to boost. You can easily run 8 psi, you could even run 10. It just depends on your tune. Your tuner will ask you how you drive, and let you drive while he tunes the car to your specifications, driving habits and needs. He can tune rich (to lower power if you wanted to run 10 psi) or lean (to raise power). I chose to run 8 psi and run rich. I could EASILY have 320 WHP @ 8psi if I ran 11.9 - 12.2 AFRs but that's very dangerous. So I run 11.1 -11.3 making it richer (11.6 is the normal 8 PSI goal) for safely reasons. The tuner (and driver..) is(are) who makes the power, reliability, and function... Not just the kit or car. You also have to keep in mind that you have 100k miles on the transmission. You might want to consider getting it checked out first. Worst case, swap it for a used 20k mile one... It'll end up running you 1500 including labor. And I fully recommend my tuner (Luiggi from Olympic Motorsports) - I have had more tuners than you'd believe try to tune my car... I have experience. Sorry for the long wall of text! Also, for all who are interested, I am testing the waters on selling my XB or trading. I'm looking for a new project.

EDIT: I'm sorry I didn't answer the first part. Nobody knows what the right number is, it's HOW you drive. Obviously if you have 350 HP it's going to go bad. Quick. Or maybe instantly. But I have probably 275 WHP and my transmission doesn't slip. But I don't floor it at 29 MPH and let it shift into 1st like an idiot. I will make sure that if I floor it, it will drop into a gear that it's supposed to (sometimes by using the sequential shifter). When I drag, I use drive, traction control off, and lightly brake-boost. I don't burn out excessively, that will put pressure on EVERYTHING. But, I do press my car, transmission, and block pretty hard. As time goes on, I will continue to keep track of any weird abnormalities of the transmission to pinpoint failure. As of now, none. 50+ drag pulls ending over 100 mph @ full throttle... No slipping tranny at any RPM or shift. At the track, the tranny shifts so perfectly, I don't even hit the rev limiter. I'm sorry for the wall of text, but I hope this will help you, or other members debating on turboing an automatic.. I'm all for it.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Interestingly my XB made only 220hp and 220tq on a Dynapack dyno that everyone says reads really high compared to the Mustang yet runs 14.1 @98mph. I've used several ET and trap speed to WHP calculators and they all agree that I must have between 240 and 260whp to run that ET/mph. Given my setup, hp and tq should be very siimilar. I guess 250whp and 250 lbs tq on a good day.

How'd your latest track day go? 13's I hope!

RJSCION

Yeah Fred, I totally agree. I don't like nor trust dynos. They can be manipulated so easily. I would assume we're around the same. I'm curious, what A/F numbers were you getting at WOT? And yes, there is no way we'd make it down @ 100 mph with 220 HP. Not possible.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, dynos are a tuning tool, not a benchmark. IMO the only comparable dyno results are those from the same dyno on the same day. For all we know Dynapacks may read a little high in the 400hp range but a little low in the 200hp range.

It was nice of you to agree with me but I meant that my hp and tq figures are similar to each other. I think you're making more power than me as evidenced by your higher trap speed. My 14.12 @97.62mph run was under great conditions and probably the best my XB can do in it's current setup.

My AFRs at WOT start off at 12.3-ish in closed loop (thanks to the SSE) and quickly drop to 11.5-ish in open loop. Because I can't fine-tune them my actual OL AFRs range from 11.3 to 11.8. I tried using a 7.25psi WG spring instead of the 5.8psi spring but my OL AFR was more like 11.8-12.2 which is leaner than I feel comfortable with.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Update bump!