ebfoxbat

Ok, so I'm drawing plans for my sub enclosure. I'm going to make a triangular box that sits up against the back seats. It'll be a sealed box ~150 Watts.

Then it occurred to me that the angle that the sub fires at the back is pretty important. Should it be firing perpendicular to the back door? Aesthetically my design looks better pointing up at the top of the back door where it's hinged.

Any ideas? ICE-theory isn't my strong suite.

Malibu_Rapper

If it's firing toward the rear of the car, that angle is less important. Just good to see that you are not firing into the rear seat. The different in angle firing back like that is almost immaterial.

city-soundzdotcom

THE ANGLE IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF A SUBBOX AND ITS SOUND QUALITY IF YOU WANT IT TO SOUND GOOD!!!!

city-soundzdotcom

ok now that i said that i will let you kow some angle basics for your box. The first thing you want to make sure if you are building a sealed box is to make sure you know where your putting the box. Once you know that you need to see if the sub is facing straight at something ie seats, back door, hatch etc. If it is you need to angle your sub. Now the exact angle is not critical but the fact that your angleing your sub is the important part.

See if a sub is facing straight at something then the soundwave will go straight towards that object. It will then bounce straight off and the wave will be directed straight back into the sub. This will make the bass sound more faint in your car.


Ever heard that subs sound better in a hatch?
That is because the subs are pointed up towards the glass (a non absorbing surface) and the glass is at the angle. Then the sound waves bounce off the glass being shot aroung your car like a bouncing ball. As the subs creat more sound waves they all bounce around in different direction off the angled glass creating a better sound.

Make sense? if not let me know, its kinda a hard thing to explain but extremely easy to show and demonstrate.

ebfoxbat

Ok, so I built it and wired her up. All was well until I re-located the wires and wrapped them. I want the unit modular (so I can take it out if I need the storage) so I needed to add plugs to the +12v and Ground and also the speaker wire. I have high-level inputs so that's that needed a plug. The amp's output is semi-permanently attached to the sub so that didn't need a plug. The entire sub/amp comes out as a single module. I think when I mounted the speaker-level input plugs I mounted them too close to the +12/Ground plug. I get horrible cross-talk (I assume that's what it is) and the amp powers on without +12 to the "Remote" terminal... strange behavior that I assume is from cross-talk/interference.

I hope I can just shorten the ground wire (it's about 24" long now which is how it came from the wiring kit) and maybe isolate the speaker-level inputs more. Hopefully that'll fix my issues. I spent hours on it yesterday in the heat and humidity so I'm a bit burned out for now.

When I made a dry-run and tested everything the sub sounds much louder though not clearer if the front is angled up (lifted an inch) but it looks silly and there's not much gain so I'm going to leave it pointed straight back.

10" 150 Watts RMS 300 Watts Peak

city-soundzdotcom

It soundz louder for the reasons i mentioned above but the clarity it showing more when you hear the full range of the sub. Since the sub is muffeld when pointed straight back you end up drowning out the messy noise. Looks pretty clean tho. I would just be careful with the amp mounted directly to the sub like that. I had two amps go bad when i did that and i think its from the sub rattleing all the insides and then stuff inside comming loose that i could not fix, but its a nice idea! Tho the wires show you did a great job of getting them under control expecially for a removable box..


edit - must be a site sponsor in order to advertise on scionlife - cherryBox

ebfoxbat

Thanks. I just have to think of a way to keep her tied down. Not to prevent theft, just to keep her from walking around.

I don't thump it too much so hopefully vibration won't be a problem. I just wanted to try to take the low freqs away from the rear speakers. They really struggle.

city-soundzdotcom

Try the hook side of velcro. Just 2 or 4 small squares in the corners. It might be just enough to grab the stock carpet and hold on for the ride.

XBFred

if you get into an accident you are going to want more than velcro. Just get a some kind of strap from the hooks at the wheel wells and you should be fine