drgonzo92

2009 xB

So yesterday I went to leave work, and no power steering. Steering wheel light was on. Managed to drive it an hour and a half home and did some quick research. From my understanding, the car has electric steering and the ECU typically goes bad.
I did pull the negative battery cable and waited over and hour. Reconnected, and started car and problem still existed. Shut car off, came out 45min later to move it, and everything is fine. This morning, everything is still fine. Now possibly it is a fluke.
But knowing the issues with these cars, I am planning for the worst. So my thought is to get a used PS ECU and prepare for replacement.

Has anybody done this? I am assuming i have to remove the dash. Anyone have tips on doing this? Pics? Anything? Cant afford for a dealer to do this for $800-$1,500.

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k1114

As I mentioned on the other forum, I'm not totally sure this is the problem, but it's worth the effort if you can get it cheap enough. There's absolutely no reason to pay a dealer to do this, as you can do it yourself in no time at all with basic hand tools.



The referenced "remove instrument panel" points to a very large document, but basically, remove the radio trim and big piece above the steering wheel (as seen here) and look at this for reference. Not sure this is actually needed; you might be able to get by without:













Post-installation you'll need to do a zero point calibration. If you have the cheap techstream cable, just connect and go to Chassis > EMPS > Utility > Torque Sensor Adjustment and follow the instructions. If not, there's a manual process you can do (I'll have to dig up notes on it)

wmyatt

Zero point calibration? So, not only do you need to make sure that the ECU is either flashed or has your car settings (VIN, odometer setting). You have to do this? This is a 3 year old thread, so, I doubt any responses will happen

Greg S

iTrader: (1)

Shouldn't need to do any ECU re-flash if you're only changing the power steering ECU. As for the zero point calibration any shop with a high quality OBD-II Reading will be able to do it. I had it done on mine when my yaw sensor decided to go funky after having some work done on my steering.

wmyatt

I don't mean to sound dumb, but I guess I am by asking this question. There is an ECU and a power steering ECU?

wmyatt

OK, so it exists. It's anywhere from $490 to $900 new, but I can't seem to find any used ones on Amazon or Ebay. The part # is 8965012520

Greg S

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, seems there aren't a lot of the gen 2 ones out and available. You might try a gen 2.5 unit. I found one for $60 on Ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/11-SCION-XB...4383.l4275.c10

I'm not sure if they made any changes to the ECU for the gen 2.5 or if it was just a part number change. Other choice might be to hit up a pick-a-part near you and pull one from a wrecked xB.

wmyatt

I heard that the only thing one has to once installed is like an ignition key pattern to get it sequenced for steering.

Greg S

iTrader: (1)

That might be the manual way of resetting the zero point calibration. I don't know for sure as I have a friend who is a mechanic so he just hooked it up to his reader and reset it for me.

wmyatt

That's what you call a good friend.

Curlylk

Interesting, my steering went out last year about this time on my 2008 xB. A few months later, (because I couldn't afford to fix it) it mysteriously started working again. Today, it went out again.
Both times it was after I stopped, shut off the engine, went into a store and came out. It also seemed to happen when I shut the key off before coming to a complete stop. I have standard shift.

Just out of curiosity, does this happen with automatic transmissions as well?


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Greg S

iTrader: (1)

Mine is a manual as well, not sure on the others. Though my steering only went out for about half a day before it started working again. been fine for a couple of years now.

Curlylk

MBinNC

Know this is an old thread, but it helped me a lot while fixing my Scion's power steering. Even with the service manual pages, etc., it was still a bit of an ordeal.... So wanted to share some tips for anyone doing this....

1) If you have SRS side airbags, the grey panels don't just pop off. To keep the panel from flying into the car when the side airbags deploy, there is a long black 'hook' that catches the panel at the top, allowing the airbag to get out. You cannot get the dash up without removing the panel. Some forums talk about cutting the black fastener. DON'T!!! If the airbags deploy that panel could hit someone inside. Pop the panel out as far as it'll go. With needle nose pliers, reach in and grab the thin part of the black fastener. GENTLY twist it 90 degrees (moving pliers downward), while watching the weird shaped head rotate - it should slip out of the panel mount sideways. I was able to do this without damaging the hook and it straightened back up fine during reassembly with a gentle twist.

2) You don't have to remove the entire dash (dealing with the many metal finger hooks near the glovebox). You should be able to get it up enough to reach in with tools to get the module out by only loosening things to the left of the radio cutout. There are 3 screws you have to take out - two by radio and one behind the steering wheel (it faces upwards - can be easy to miss). I found reaching through the dashboard hole with right arm and reaching UNDER the dash with my left - was easiest way to reach in and hold it up, manipulate tools, hold ratchet straight, etc. You're still gonna scrap your arms a bit.

3) The cable fastener on the module bracket is snapped in - but it's tight. Was able to gently pry off the mount with a large flat screwdriver, rotating it. It should pop out and you can pop it back in when reinstalling.

4) The control connectors pop right off by depressing the lock tabs on top, but getting that last big cable out that drives the steering motor is tricky. To get the white lock tab up, I used an L shaped pointy tool to catch the white lock tab from the left (above the black handle plastic). A little twist and the tab popped right up - it does NOT come out - it just pops up ~1/4". But the arm STILL would not release/rotate. Drove me crazy. I finally unbolted the module and got visibility on the lock arm - there is a lock tab IN the handle, exposed when the white tab is lifted upwards. Pull the black tab in the handle towards you/the cable - it'll release off the white housing and the arm rotates upward to disconnect the motor cable.

5) Getting the module & bracket out was easiest slipping it under the dashboard where my left arm was. BE CAREFUL - there a lot of thin wires in the dash area and the bracket is sharp. You could easily nick/cut one.

6) When you install the replacement - make sure no wires get crushed under the front bracket when you tighten it down.

7) Use the plier trick to get the side panel hooked again and make sure the airbag is close to the door edge, not sitting way inside the panel (it should fit close to the curved part of the panel) Make sure the panel doesn't catch any part of the retention strings or bag. It should move freely.

I used a cheap techstream cable to do the zero point calibration. But the car can't be running - the engine needs to be OFF with the key in the ON position. Otherwise the calibration will fail (and the module cuts out putting you back where you were - thankfully only briefly.)

Also if you're searching on eBay for the modules - I found the listings with pictures of the actual module were about double what listings with just a picture of a wrecked car was from pick/pull lots. Got mine for $75 for a salvaged 08 xB. Worked like a charm.

Curlylk

It mysteriously started working again. Hope it lasts this time!

CurlyLk