xB2 Aggressive Fitment thread..
01-13-2012, 04:41 AM
#43
Senior Member
Utah Scions
SL Member
Thread Starter
Well it will really depend on how much weight is in it. I'd still roll the fenders, just to avoid tire scrubbage and avoid future wife freakouts. Buddy of mine is running 19x9.5 +25 with 235/35R19's. Pretty beefy tire (Lexani), and he rubbed the tire on the fender a little when he was fully loaded. He's running DFs, too.
Poke with the car still sitting high is kinda doofy... why not keep with something less aggressive than 17x10 +20? Unless, of course, you already have the wheels.
Poke with the car still sitting high is kinda doofy... why not keep with something less aggressive than 17x10 +20? Unless, of course, you already have the wheels.
01-28-2012, 03:32 AM
#46
Not sure if this qualifies as "aggressive" or not, but the fronts are DEAD flush, and I'm waiting on 15mm spacers for the rear to be also.
Got my ksports on today...mmm....low, but still functional. Perfect.
Also, it was cold as ***** and super dark when I took this picture. Don't hate.
Got my ksports on today...mmm....low, but still functional. Perfect.
Also, it was cold as ***** and super dark when I took this picture. Don't hate.
01-28-2012, 03:53 AM
#47
Not sure if this qualifies as "aggressive" or not, but the fronts are DEAD flush, and I'm waiting on 15mm spacers for the rear to be also.
Got my ksports on today...mmm....low, but still functional. Perfect.
Also, it was cold as ***** and super dark when I took this picture. Don't hate.
Got my ksports on today...mmm....low, but still functional. Perfect.
Also, it was cold as ***** and super dark when I took this picture. Don't hate.
Really Really Clean..! What are the specs of the wheels? And how you like the Ksports?Ride?
01-30-2012, 10:37 PM
#55
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 2,016
got quoted today $80 for my rears to be rolled, seems reasonable ?
Guy who does it is apparently quite good, saw him mentioned on a few forums.
matt @ "camber toe" in lynbrook, NY
has anyone rented the eastwood and rolled it themselves? I mean i turn wrenches on everything , but I could imagine it takes a certain amount of finesse&heat that could only be acquired after times and times of doing it.
anyone in the tristate area who knows some one who knows some one?
Guy who does it is apparently quite good, saw him mentioned on a few forums.
matt @ "camber toe" in lynbrook, NY
has anyone rented the eastwood and rolled it themselves? I mean i turn wrenches on everything , but I could imagine it takes a certain amount of finesse&heat that could only be acquired after times and times of doing it.
anyone in the tristate area who knows some one who knows some one?
01-30-2012, 11:15 PM
#56
Senior Member
Utah Scions
SL Member
Thread Starter
$80 isn't a bad deal, especially if it's at a shop with overhead. I usually charge $40-$50, depending on how well I know the person. Heck, I've even rolled close friends' cars for free.
I own the Powered By Max roller, and I've used the Eastwood roller. I personally prefer the Powered By Max roller.
Pros of PBM roller:
1. Convertible so you can use it on lowered cars without having to adjust any of the current coilover settings.
2. It's relatively inexpensive.
3. The roller, itself, is a little softer than the Eastwood. This makes marring paint almost impossible.
Cons:
1. It's sometimes difficult to set up on some cars (i.e. 5x100 cars).
2. Due to the convertible plate, it can flex a bit more than desired.
3. I think the material it is made of could be of a slightly higher quality material like a high carbon steel.
The Eastwood is a great roller. But the one time I used it, I wasn't impressed. It may be because I've used the PBM so much, but the Eastwood was kind of a PITA to me.
Also, depending on how much he pulls, he'll have to keep an eye on the lip he's flattening. I noticed, on mine, it stated to split because it's not welded. It's all glued together with a type of seam sealer. I had to bend a 4" section back out so I could get everything sandwiched back together and flat. I had the outer skin seperated from the inner lip. It's weird how Scion did this. 1st gens are even weirder. They have a huge chunk of seam sealer, about 1" wide and 1/8" thick, all the way around the arch.
I own the Powered By Max roller, and I've used the Eastwood roller. I personally prefer the Powered By Max roller.
Pros of PBM roller:
1. Convertible so you can use it on lowered cars without having to adjust any of the current coilover settings.
2. It's relatively inexpensive.
3. The roller, itself, is a little softer than the Eastwood. This makes marring paint almost impossible.
Cons:
1. It's sometimes difficult to set up on some cars (i.e. 5x100 cars).
2. Due to the convertible plate, it can flex a bit more than desired.
3. I think the material it is made of could be of a slightly higher quality material like a high carbon steel.
The Eastwood is a great roller. But the one time I used it, I wasn't impressed. It may be because I've used the PBM so much, but the Eastwood was kind of a PITA to me.
Also, depending on how much he pulls, he'll have to keep an eye on the lip he's flattening. I noticed, on mine, it stated to split because it's not welded. It's all glued together with a type of seam sealer. I had to bend a 4" section back out so I could get everything sandwiched back together and flat. I had the outer skin seperated from the inner lip. It's weird how Scion did this. 1st gens are even weirder. They have a huge chunk of seam sealer, about 1" wide and 1/8" thick, all the way around the arch.
01-31-2012, 02:10 AM
#57
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 2,016
$80 isn't a bad deal, especially if it's at a shop with overhead. I usually charge $40-$50, depending on how well I know the person. Heck, I've even rolled close friends' cars for free.
I own the Powered By Max roller, and I've used the Eastwood roller. I personally prefer the Powered By Max roller.
Pros of PBM roller:
1. Convertible so you can use it on lowered cars without having to adjust any of the current coilover settings.
2. It's relatively inexpensive.
3. The roller, itself, is a little softer than the Eastwood. This makes marring paint almost impossible.
Cons:
1. It's sometimes difficult to set up on some cars (i.e. 5x100 cars).
2. Due to the convertible plate, it can flex a bit more than desired.
3. I think the material it is made of could be of a slightly higher quality material like a high carbon steel.
The Eastwood is a great roller. But the one time I used it, I wasn't impressed. It may be because I've used the PBM so much, but the Eastwood was kind of a PITA to me.
Also, depending on how much he pulls, he'll have to keep an eye on the lip he's flattening. I noticed, on mine, it stated to split because it's not welded. It's all glued together with a type of seam sealer. I had to bend a 4" section back out so I could get everything sandwiched back together and flat. I had the outer skin seperated from the inner lip. It's weird how Scion did this. 1st gens are even weirder. They have a huge chunk of seam sealer, about 1" wide and 1/8" thick, all the way around the arch.
I own the Powered By Max roller, and I've used the Eastwood roller. I personally prefer the Powered By Max roller.
Pros of PBM roller:
1. Convertible so you can use it on lowered cars without having to adjust any of the current coilover settings.
2. It's relatively inexpensive.
3. The roller, itself, is a little softer than the Eastwood. This makes marring paint almost impossible.
Cons:
1. It's sometimes difficult to set up on some cars (i.e. 5x100 cars).
2. Due to the convertible plate, it can flex a bit more than desired.
3. I think the material it is made of could be of a slightly higher quality material like a high carbon steel.
The Eastwood is a great roller. But the one time I used it, I wasn't impressed. It may be because I've used the PBM so much, but the Eastwood was kind of a PITA to me.
Also, depending on how much he pulls, he'll have to keep an eye on the lip he's flattening. I noticed, on mine, it stated to split because it's not welded. It's all glued together with a type of seam sealer. I had to bend a 4" section back out so I could get everything sandwiched back together and flat. I had the outer skin seperated from the inner lip. It's weird how Scion did this. 1st gens are even weirder. They have a huge chunk of seam sealer, about 1" wide and 1/8" thick, all the way around the arch.
nice, thanks for the tip figured you would know haha. I cannot wait. been prolonging finishing le box for way to long.
01-31-2012, 03:40 AM
#59
Senior Member
Utah Scions
SL Member
Thread Starter
I think I've rolled mine on 3 seperate occasions, and my buddy's HTM twice. There's more to it, too. You may have to roll beyond the rear bumper. There's a little ledge, similar to WRX/STIs. You can cut the lip a little bit and pound it up with a rubber or, my preference, deadblow hammer. 10mm bolt holds the rear bumper on there, then it snaps off a little. I'm really particular on my roll/pulls. If you notice on my car, it still all looks stock.
Blah blah blah blah. Specs.