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Due to the car's age and the weather conditions here in Florida, I decided to go with a budget replacement package from Crutchfield, since they also provide harnesses, instructions, and mounting hardware and since I do most of my listening at home on studio monitors. I just want to carry that music along when I drive. I'm not expecting audiophile quality.
At any rate, I have gone over all the instructions, door panel removal, drilling, etc. so I know it's not a five-minute plug-and-play.
My question is about the tweeter install if anyone knows.
Crutchfield had no wire harnesses or adapters available for the tweeters.
I took a look at the wire harness on the factory tweeters behind the sail panel, and they look tiny and veryfragile, as I understand it, the harness plug is cut, and the remaining factory wires are spliced into the aftermarket tweeter wires. It's not as if I never stripped wire before, but do standard strippers suffice without mauling the wires?
My questions about the tweeter were answered when I received the new kit yesterday.
This may not apply to other speaker brands, but the Herz UNO Series K170 came with "extras" in terms of hardware, screws, and mounting hardware.
I removed the sail panel and four-wire plug (I believe there are Pink and Purple wires) and carefully spread the tabs, and the factory tweeter popped out with no issues.
Part of the mounting hardware allows you to mount the tweeter wedge mount style on the dash, and that hardware includes a trim ring for the tweeter.
I had seen another random thread where someone installing tweeters said the trim ring increased the diameter of the aftermarket tweeter housing enough to give it a firm grip inside the mounting tabs of the sail panel.
So, indeed I tried this, with the barest amount of 3M foam double-sided foam tape around the circumference part of the trim ring, and it was a solid fit.
As for the wiring, well it's just a VERY small guage so time and care when stripping.
Getting my posi lock connectors, today, and off I go tomorrow when the weather warms for the weekend.
I finished the installation yesterday, and in hindsight, I have to say I was probably overthinking some aspects of the installation, and underestimating other parts.
Crutchfield did a good job supplying needed parts, providing a tool list, etc.
The door panel removal was pretty quick, having TINY screwdrivers and plastic spudger tools help with panel removal tabs for plugs.
The drilling went quickly as well, especially with a new, sharp 11/64 bit. The tiny pieces left behind from the rivets fall quickly into the bottom of the door panel, so check that they are clear to prevent rattles
The first speaker is your learning curve, so be prepared to allow for time to figure things out, subsequent installation goes much quicker.
The hardware supplied with the mounting adapter was pathetic and frustrating, I quickly went to Home Depot to get 1x1 1/4 pan head sheet metal screws, MUCH more robust than the micro size, ultra tiny bolts provided with the adapter kit.
I was shocked by the condition of the speakers, it was a miracle they were working at all, the speaker surrounds had disintegrated to a burned, shredded mess, so I will move on to the rear speakers at a later date.
The tiny wires are MUCH more robust than I imagined, a wire stripper on the smallest gauge pulled off the insulation cleanly. Posi lock connectors are a lifesaver, they are essential for this project IMHO.
All in all ,cleaner sound and good value from Crutchfield. Speakers shredded beyond repair Proper orientation of mounting adapter Passenger side after door panel removal Both sides were destroyed. Passenger side door and window control panel comes up fairly easily, be gentle. Have a tiny bladed screwdriver on hand to assist in plug removal.
I took her out for a drive this morning to the grocery store, I put about 25 or 30 albums on a USB stick there and just let the car stereo auto pick.
It's also aftermarket, the JVC KD R490, nothing fancy just adequate for playback.
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It was cued to Beck's "Morning Phase" which is about as lower to mid-bass heavy as it gets and there were no bass rattles, just nice prescence.
I'm not cranking it up like my neighbors with earth-shattering bass, and my primary listening is at home through studio monitors streaming FLAC files, so while not, exactly a pure audiophile improvement, there are clearer highs, although the mids sound slightly muddy to me. But my ears are spoiled at home.
I'm thinking some break in and experimenting with EQ will come, but overall, I'm at least not cringing every time a bass note is played.
Then, you're still drilling out the original mount which is riveted in, carefully cutting the cone and separating it from the damaged surround foam, cleaning the damaged surround material out, and then gluing the new foam surround kit, all while knowing if the original cone is damaged.
If you do, let us know how it worked out. I was honestly considering doing just that to save some bucks but I started getting a bit nervous seeing various videos like this one.