How to program Scion tC 2008 keyless entry
03-20-2012, 12:21 PM
#1
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How to program Scion tC 2008 keyless entry
i was just wondering, i need to know the keyless entry program to make unlock/locks work again for the car. anyone know it? if anyone can help me how to program keyless/button to lock/unlock again ill appreciate it.Thanks
Last edited by MR_LUV; 10-11-2017 at 11:35 PM. Reason: typo
03-20-2012, 07:57 PM
#3
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Location: Hackettstown, NJ
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Well, if you bought a new key, the lock/unlock function isn't paired to the car. Looking to see if I can find the programming sequence.
Edit: This should work, kind of a confusing process, make sure you read this a few times to understand what you're doing.
1. Driver's door open, key removed from ignition switch.
2. Within 5 seconds, insert and remove key from ignition switch twice.
3. Within 40 seconds, close and open driver's door twice.
4. Insert and remove key from ignition switch.
5. Within 40 seconds, close and open driver's door twice.
6. Insert key into ignition switch and close the driver's door.
7. Switch ignition ON and OFF once to program a remote while
retaining the original codes. Switch ignition ON and OFF twice
to program remote while erasing the original code. Switch ignition
ON and OFF three times to check how many remotes are currently
registered or five times to erase all registered remotes.
8. Remove key from ignition switch.
9. System should now lock and unlock vehicle. Once, twice, or five times
depending on which mode has been selected. Once to four times, slowly,
to indicate how many remotes are programmed.
10. Within 40 seconds: Press and release LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously.
11. Within 3 seconds: Press remote LOCK or UNLOCK button.
12. System should now LOCK and UNLOCK vehicle. Once to confirm registration,
twice to indicate programming has failed.
13. Within 40 seconds, repeat step 10 to program additional remotes.
Up to 4 remotes can be programmed.
14. To exit programming mode, open driver's door.
Edit: This should work, kind of a confusing process, make sure you read this a few times to understand what you're doing.
1. Driver's door open, key removed from ignition switch.
2. Within 5 seconds, insert and remove key from ignition switch twice.
3. Within 40 seconds, close and open driver's door twice.
4. Insert and remove key from ignition switch.
5. Within 40 seconds, close and open driver's door twice.
6. Insert key into ignition switch and close the driver's door.
7. Switch ignition ON and OFF once to program a remote while
retaining the original codes. Switch ignition ON and OFF twice
to program remote while erasing the original code. Switch ignition
ON and OFF three times to check how many remotes are currently
registered or five times to erase all registered remotes.
8. Remove key from ignition switch.
9. System should now lock and unlock vehicle. Once, twice, or five times
depending on which mode has been selected. Once to four times, slowly,
to indicate how many remotes are programmed.
10. Within 40 seconds: Press and release LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously.
11. Within 3 seconds: Press remote LOCK or UNLOCK button.
12. System should now LOCK and UNLOCK vehicle. Once to confirm registration,
twice to indicate programming has failed.
13. Within 40 seconds, repeat step 10 to program additional remotes.
Up to 4 remotes can be programmed.
14. To exit programming mode, open driver's door.
03-22-2012, 12:16 PM
#4
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Well the thing is i blew a fuse, i got the fuse in but now i still cant unlock/lock my car by the keyless*buttons or the button on the door. but i can use the key to unlock/lock by putting it in the door like old times. but i cant get trunk to open without it. i wanted to try Reset Keyless Entry but seems like it dont work. any ideas on what it could've blew in the door on lock/unlocks since i cant use anything with lock/unlocks? like is there anything u guys can think of that may be the cause of this in the door?
03-23-2012, 05:32 PM
#7
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Location: Hackettstown, NJ
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Oh, okay. Didn't realize that he said the buttons on the inside of the door. Very odd, have you tried disconnecting the negative terminal on your battery? Maybe the locks need to be reset or something.
03-24-2012, 01:55 AM
#8
How did you blow the fuse in the first place? Did you make sure there were no other blown fuses? Fuses shouldn't randomly blow and if you did something to make it blow you may have fried something. The fact that the hatch doesn't open shows there is no power being sent to the switch which leads me to believe you have another blown fuse somewhere.
03-24-2012, 03:27 PM
#9
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well i was puttin halos in it and it blew. uhh yeah i went to dealer ship. they ran to see what was wrong with it. they said it was just one fuse and i replaced it. i have took it off Neg Battery when i just added Intake. it done nothing at all so im not sure what the problem is... is there a senor or something in the door that makes the lock/unlock work for switch/key? if so u think thats the problem?
03-24-2012, 04:08 PM
#10
I honestly don't know for sure. The dealer knows nothing unless they actually check the car out and fully diagnose it.
My first reccomendation would be to check EVERY fuse. Including the ones under the dash AND the ones under the hood. If you don't have a meter. PULL them all one by one and visually inspect them to see if they are blown. If it isn't a fuse you probably fried a module or something in the door. Not sure how doing halo's would do that so I am leaning more towards a fuse. But then again not sure how your headlights are tied to anything in the locks either so at this point without physically looking at the car I am at a loss if it is not a fuse.
My first reccomendation would be to check EVERY fuse. Including the ones under the dash AND the ones under the hood. If you don't have a meter. PULL them all one by one and visually inspect them to see if they are blown. If it isn't a fuse you probably fried a module or something in the door. Not sure how doing halo's would do that so I am leaning more towards a fuse. But then again not sure how your headlights are tied to anything in the locks either so at this point without physically looking at the car I am at a loss if it is not a fuse.
03-25-2012, 03:00 PM
#11
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yeah no one esle can figure it out... toyota did a diagnose on it and they said nothing was wrong with the car. friends say its maybe a ground wire or something but i have no clue thats y i came here. il recheck the fuse's to make sure there not blown but i dont think thats it unless there computer didnt pick it up.
03-25-2012, 06:00 PM
#12
their computer wouldn't really pick up a blown fuse and I am not too sure what their computer checks? I thought they just told you a fuse was blown and you replaced the one they told you to.
Ok so let me make sure I understand. Do you doorlocks not work at ALL as far as power doorlocks go? Like if you hit the button on the door they still don't work? The hatch button does not work correct? and your keyless remote obviously doesn't function?
The reason I don't trust the dealers scan tool is because all they have is some monkey plug it into your computer which these cars don't use a can or data-bus system so that plug shouldn't really be able to tell them anything about the door locks. All the other electronics that is could see probably came back without error so they charged you and sent you on their way without getting a trained tech to really look into it. There is OBVIOUSLY something wrong with your system. May it be a blown fuse or a fried module those are still problems and they should've found out if they charged you. I would almost be tempted to take it back (if they charged you that is) and demand to speak to a manager as you were charged a diag fee and they didn't find the correct issue and the car left in the same form it came in with no further information. Therefore you shouldn't have to pay or they need to actually check it out.
Unless you took something else apart while doing your halo's there shouldn't be any ground or any wiring near your headlights that you could have disconnected by accident. When you hit the buttons do you hear ANY kind of clicking AT ALL if you sit in the car and it is completely quiet for you to listen? do the lights flash at all when you hit your remote buttons?
I just looked at all the wiring info from every website I have at my fingers at work. It looks as though the flasher relay goes back to the integrated relay which drives your locks. That is the only piece of equipment that would stop your keyless and doorlocks from working. Anything else would let the doorlocks work just not with the remote. If your lights flash but car doesn't unlock when you press the keyless buttons then you may have fried this relay pack. If they don't then I will have to dig deeper into this.
Let me know all the info you can..
Also try to backtrack your install what did you do during it? did you cut or splice into any wires? did you ark anything or ground a wire that you shouldn't have? Could you un-install anything you have done and see if the locks work?
I'll do the best I can to try to help figure this out. Just keep me updated and give me as much info as you possibly can
Ok so let me make sure I understand. Do you doorlocks not work at ALL as far as power doorlocks go? Like if you hit the button on the door they still don't work? The hatch button does not work correct? and your keyless remote obviously doesn't function?
The reason I don't trust the dealers scan tool is because all they have is some monkey plug it into your computer which these cars don't use a can or data-bus system so that plug shouldn't really be able to tell them anything about the door locks. All the other electronics that is could see probably came back without error so they charged you and sent you on their way without getting a trained tech to really look into it. There is OBVIOUSLY something wrong with your system. May it be a blown fuse or a fried module those are still problems and they should've found out if they charged you. I would almost be tempted to take it back (if they charged you that is) and demand to speak to a manager as you were charged a diag fee and they didn't find the correct issue and the car left in the same form it came in with no further information. Therefore you shouldn't have to pay or they need to actually check it out.
Unless you took something else apart while doing your halo's there shouldn't be any ground or any wiring near your headlights that you could have disconnected by accident. When you hit the buttons do you hear ANY kind of clicking AT ALL if you sit in the car and it is completely quiet for you to listen? do the lights flash at all when you hit your remote buttons?
I just looked at all the wiring info from every website I have at my fingers at work. It looks as though the flasher relay goes back to the integrated relay which drives your locks. That is the only piece of equipment that would stop your keyless and doorlocks from working. Anything else would let the doorlocks work just not with the remote. If your lights flash but car doesn't unlock when you press the keyless buttons then you may have fried this relay pack. If they don't then I will have to dig deeper into this.
Let me know all the info you can..
Also try to backtrack your install what did you do during it? did you cut or splice into any wires? did you ark anything or ground a wire that you shouldn't have? Could you un-install anything you have done and see if the locks work?
I'll do the best I can to try to help figure this out. Just keep me updated and give me as much info as you possibly can
03-25-2012, 08:59 PM
#13
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 37
Well ok, first things first. i bought the car the Door/key worked on EVERYTHING. i tried to apply Halos to the Car. i blew the fuse and nothing on the Doors would work. passenger side window would not roll down or up.
but i took it to the dealership they said You had a blown Fuse. for windows and locks they said that was all that was wrong with fuse's, and they said They Can not fix anything wrong with the doorlocks. but they thought it was the Switch (They Told me 400$ for switch) i got on ebay and bought a new switch. same thing.
I Googled how to reset Windows. 3sec's hold it up and they should work fine. i tried it, it worked. i kept checking on door locks because no way to reset them. i figured maybe it wuld keyless entry on something. but i tried to reset the keyless.. Door open key in ignition open door.. blah blah blah. did nothing.
After i done all that stuff Research/keyless/switch swap. i took it to a diff place that wasnt were i bought it from (Diff Dealership) i took it to Toyota to run a Diagonis cuz were i bought it told me there comp system was better. i ran it down there they did not charge me for a run on the computer but, they said there was no Problems at all with anything on the Car. period. they told me they could rewire it and see if that fixes it but it will cost me 200$ and 3hrs of pure rewire in the doors.
i believe ur right. the fried module. my Key will flicker all my lights on the car with UNlock button. Lock Button does Nothing at all. Alarm Works to. nothing in the Car Door Locks work. no clicks no unlock/locks wen u touch it.
IF its anything Its gotta be the Fried Module. how much would that cost to fix?
but i took it to the dealership they said You had a blown Fuse. for windows and locks they said that was all that was wrong with fuse's, and they said They Can not fix anything wrong with the doorlocks. but they thought it was the Switch (They Told me 400$ for switch) i got on ebay and bought a new switch. same thing.
I Googled how to reset Windows. 3sec's hold it up and they should work fine. i tried it, it worked. i kept checking on door locks because no way to reset them. i figured maybe it wuld keyless entry on something. but i tried to reset the keyless.. Door open key in ignition open door.. blah blah blah. did nothing.
After i done all that stuff Research/keyless/switch swap. i took it to a diff place that wasnt were i bought it from (Diff Dealership) i took it to Toyota to run a Diagonis cuz were i bought it told me there comp system was better. i ran it down there they did not charge me for a run on the computer but, they said there was no Problems at all with anything on the Car. period. they told me they could rewire it and see if that fixes it but it will cost me 200$ and 3hrs of pure rewire in the doors.
i believe ur right. the fried module. my Key will flicker all my lights on the car with UNlock button. Lock Button does Nothing at all. Alarm Works to. nothing in the Car Door Locks work. no clicks no unlock/locks wen u touch it.
IF its anything Its gotta be the Fried Module. how much would that cost to fix?
03-26-2012, 02:25 PM
#17
I live in richmond va. Well actually short pump area.
A module is basically like a mini computer which controls the circuitry that tells the locks what to do with the signals received.
The keyless module looks to be in the center console. Probably a 5 minute job to get to and about a total 30-45 min job to replace.
the cost of the module can be found on ebay for 40-100 bucks and you can probably replace it yourself if you have any skill at all with a 10mm wrench and a philips screwdriver. if not it would probably be a 90-100 dollar hourly charge at toyota to replace it if you bring them the part. Thne they will have to program your key to work with it.
A module is basically like a mini computer which controls the circuitry that tells the locks what to do with the signals received.
The keyless module looks to be in the center console. Probably a 5 minute job to get to and about a total 30-45 min job to replace.
the cost of the module can be found on ebay for 40-100 bucks and you can probably replace it yourself if you have any skill at all with a 10mm wrench and a philips screwdriver. if not it would probably be a 90-100 dollar hourly charge at toyota to replace it if you bring them the part. Thne they will have to program your key to work with it.
03-26-2012, 02:27 PM
#18
Here is one I found
Now I am not 100% possitive on this but I don't see any other culprit if you have already checked all of your fuses under your hood and dash
If you are close to short pump I can try to look at it for you if you wanted to stop by
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2007-20...#ht_3450wt_952
Now I am not 100% possitive on this but I don't see any other culprit if you have already checked all of your fuses under your hood and dash
If you are close to short pump I can try to look at it for you if you wanted to stop by
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2007-20...#ht_3450wt_952