Hexadecimus

I acquired a tC that "just needed the clutch bled" but something more is obviously wrong with it. There are bubbles coming from the slave pretty consistently. Mostly very tiny but enough of them to be a problem. Occasionally a larger bubble.

I am mechanically inclined and I'm bleeding it correctly. I've tried varying the speed, pressure, distance, pumping and not pumping. I've gone through a quart of fluid with no change in amount or frequency of bubbles. There isn't just a lot of air working its way out. There must be air getting in.

On this car, is it more likely coming in the back of the master or getting in through the cup seal on the slave? I know both are possible, so I don't want to just throw money at it until I know where the best place is to start. I have a suspicion, but I don't want to influence anyone else. What do you guys think? Thanks in advance.

xile6

Could be a bad master cylinder also.

But how are you bleeding it? You could be doing it wrong.
The best way to bleed it is..

Fill up the brake res.
Then put a clear hose on the slave cylinder bolt.
Open it until it starts to drip.
Go inside and put a brick on the clutch pedal (or have someone else press it in)
At the slave cylinder make sure the hose goes down and in to a bottle of fluid.

let it sit like this for about 5 mins.
Then close the screw.
Pull up the clutch pedal then give it a few pumps then hold it down.
Open screw and repeat until the clear hose has no bubble or gaps just a nice flow of fluid.

Hexadecimus

Thanks for the reply but--no offense--I already answered that. Been fixing all of our own cars almost as long as you've been alive. I learned from career SAE certified mechanics who run service departments and teach in colleges, and I'm a stickler for learning to do things correctly before ever picking up a tool. Yes, I can bleed a clutch. Yes, I'm doing it right. Actually, I'd correct you on the point that you should not be pumping the master up and there's no reason to leave it for "5 minutes" between cycles.

There's more air coming out than could possibly have been in the line to begin with. After a full quart and bubbles consistently being purged, I'd have gotten all of the air out. Air is getting in. I'm asking if on this particular model it's more likely that the master or slave is bad since I haven't worked on a 2st gen tC before.

xile6

If you been working on cars that long then you should know its the master then. Been working on car for around 12 to 13yrs. And done everything to them. And pass the ase test yrs ago.
It sucking in air everytime you press it it. If your getting more air in then you started with.

And i didnt say you leave it down for 5mins between pumps. Only in the start to make sure everything is flowing. A brench bleed.

Licecem

I just recently replaced my master cylinder. Air wouldn't stop coming out. I then replaced the slave cylinder. All hoses and hard lines check out with zero leaks. I have tubing going from the bleeder valve to the reservoir. No bubbles to be seen. When the bleeder valve is cracked open I have resistance on the pedal. When valve is closed 100% pedal is spongy and almost to the floor. I'm typing this now because I was about to throw a wrench through the windshield (hint).
I do need Help. Anything positive will be appreciated greatly.
I'm on a Serious deadline.
Help please!! ;(

Licecem

I just recently replaced my master cylinder. Air wouldn't stop coming out. I then replaced the slave cylinder. All hoses and hard lines check out with zero leaks. I have tubing going from the bleeder valve to the reservoir. No bubbles to be seen. When the bleeder valve is cracked open I have resistance on the pedal. When valve is closed 100% pedal is spongy and almost to the floor. I'm typing this now because I was about to throw a wrench through the windshield (hint).
I do need Help. Anything positive will be appreciated greatly.
I'm on a Serious deadline.
Help please!! ;(

xile6

whats your pedal highet?
i had to adjust mines alway the way to the top. The rod in the new cylinder was different.
so try that theb rebleed it.

Licecem

Adjusting pedal height is what got me in this predicament.
Was trying to raise it and went toooo far. Triangle retaining clip came out of master cylinder and I couldn't replace it.
Pedal height before I skrewed with it was about three inches down.
When I put in master cylinder I made sure adjustment was 1/2 of threads.
Checked travel on bolt before I installed. 10 complete turns.
Would 4 1/2 turns compensate for grinding gears?

Licecem

Sad thing is that this isn't my first manual car or clutch but this puppy has me baffled and my circumstances have me on edge.
A do appreciate you help.

Licecem

Little update:
Came to the conclusion my slave cylinder rod just isn't long enough, kinda weird for Replament parts. Saw a vid using a grade 8 bolt rounded at both ends.
Because of time constraints and the fact I didn't have or was able to get one. I used a hardened steel nut. Rounded the outside tapering to one side. On the other side I took a bit the same size as the rod and made a bowl.
I put this inside the slave ( it's cone shaped in there) put lithium gel in the hole of the nut, placed the rod in, replaced the rubber boot , and reinstalled.
After minimal bleeding ( about 15 min ) the clutch fully disingages. I can now shift and drive. This is a quick bandaid I know but gets me down the road to work.
Planning a real repair in a week or so. Carrying tools, pre rounded nut, and fluid with till then.
This could help someone out of a bind but I don't believe it is a permanent fix.

xile6

Yea my first replacement master. Had a very short rod and didnt work. Return it for another one.
Since this fot so many other cars its happens.

and good you got it fix. Did you keep any of your old parts to compare size?

Hexadecimus

+1. Mine needed to be adjusted out all of the way. It isn't quite where I'd like it, but it works so I'm not going to mess with it.