areebashar23

Need some help. tC2 manual. Grinds when I'm trying to shift into second gear, but I noticed as it (the transmission) got warmer my shifts would grind less?
On a warm day (last I drove it) I don't recall it grinding at all? Also I noticed if I shifted harder it wouldn't grind. Oh and it never grinds downshifting.

Also I'm in Canada so it's gonna get waayyyyy colder so this so concerning ahah.

Some background:
Installed a new clutch kit
Replaced input shaft bearing
Filled trans with Redline MTL gl4 synthetic (see pic)
Bled the clutch and bled it too much (emptying master cylinder almost) refilled and bled again
Drove it around on a +15-16 degrees C day (drove good)
Drove it today (+6-7 degrees C) and it's grinding for the first 5-10 minutes
After 8ish minutes grinding mostly went away

Now I do know the manual says something about having to use OEM Toyota Fluid...

62Fender

Did you adjust any free play in the clutch pedal?

areebashar23

I haven't done so, how would I do that?

MikelMykelz

there is no pedal free play for the clutch, it is not mechanical...you can bleed the hydraulic release bearing, but did you and (should have change it) when you did the clutch?

areebashar23

Sure did. 2 or three times. Did it again. Got a single small blob of air but I doubt that's it. Its warm again today and it aint grinding at all. Maybe just the wrong fluid?

MikelMykelz

temp wise what you have is be ok, recommended for the scynchromesh design for the gear changes.

areebashar23

Could you clarify? What do you mean? Like syncromesh fluid?

drizzoh

Redline MTL should be fine in the 6MT, it's an 80W GL4 just like stock. If you properly filled the trans and didn't have the issue prior to replacing the clutch I'd guess it's an installation issue or something isn't properly adjusted. Depending on the clutch installed as well the feel might be different and have a different engagement point that you'll just need to get used to.

Bleeding the clutch shouldn't have been necessary with the clutch replacement, so it's likely that's where your problem lies. Double check there's no air in it, they're really easy to over-bleed.

Also re: the above comment - we have synchros in our gearbox to assist in shifting that prefer certain fluids, and MTL is correct for this type of transmission due to its weight.

62Fender

The first 8 pages of the "clutch" section of the repair manual deals with free play adjustment of the mechanical clutch pedal.

Dear OP:

Sorry for the late response. I can't upload the pdf to your thread. I even tried to PM it to you but the upload doesn't work.

MikelMykelz

Correct yes there is a adjustment for pedal free play, I was in the area that it’s not a mechanical engagement clutch. If it was there would be linkage to to the trans. I know there isn’t. Misunderstanding my part. Like above said you may have to get used to a different pedal travel. Synchromesh uses a spring loaded ball on the hub that detents to allow ease of aligning the collar on the hub of the the gear.

The collar is above and slides on the hub to align the teeth. Notice the wear in the hub!! And broken brass upper teeth. My poor 3rd gear.

areebashar23

I might've slightly overfilled that's about it. And in the clutch job i replaces the slave/throwout bearing combo thing so I did need to bleed. What do you mean by over-bleeding?

areebashar23

No worries, I have the entire manual and more! I'll look into it! I'm pretty sure its adjustment of the pedal using the nut and whatnot connecting to the pedal. Done it before. I'll try that as well. Appreciate it!

areebashar23

Gotchya. Putting those dentents in was a pain ahah they kept popping out whenever I'd lift the syncro.
My gears definitely weren't like that neither were the synchros, not even close. Would it be safe to say it isn't really a bad synchro? Considering it did shift no problem before as well?

drizzoh

You replaced the slave cylinder? There's a chance the new one could be defective. Simply replacing the TOB shouldn't require bleeding though as the slave cylinder is a closed system that is separate from the bearing. And with over-bleeding I just mean that it's easy to bleed it too much to where you suck air back thru the line since it's such a short distance.

areebashar23

I doubt it is defective, it's not leaking and disengages the clutch well? By slave/throw out bearing combo I mean the one that pushes against the diaphragm springs of the pressure plate.

drizzoh

Go thru with the clutch pedal adjustment then. You should have about an inch of free play at the top of the stroke before you start to feel the pedal start to engage.

DragonfireSci14

I am going through the same issue with my 3rd gear grinding as I shift into it during cold mornings. I believe my syncro rings are going out which is supposedly common on the Gen 2 tCs. I am trying to figure out if I should rebuild or replace the transmission.

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Camkarting

I find that it’s harder to shift into 2nd when it gets colder than -8C but what I found helps me is I bring the rpm up a little bit more before I clutch in,
but then I double clutch into second. After like 3 minutes of driving, shifting is smooth and easy

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drizzoh

No issues shifting in mine. Ended up finding out the Redline MT-LV is the correct fluid for the car as it calls for a 75w low viscosity oil. Phoenix only dips into the 30's usually so no issues here
but it's the proper weight and viscosity for the vehicle so it should be smoother than MTL. Smooth as butter for me. Been in a few months now.



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62Fender

SL needs a like button. drizzoh would have a million likes.