cheap lugs ruined my day
I picked up a chrome lug kit from my local autozone and installed them a few months ago. Today I noticed rust was getting unusually high on them so I decided to go back to oem. After removing all , when I got to the last wheel in the rear I was torquing the first bolt and it snapped the stud and lug right off! I tried the next and it literally crumbled, I wd40d the next two and they snapped off like twigs. Never seen anything like this before and was beyond shocked. I ran back to autozone and spoke to the manager. I had a receipt with kit and he told me it wasn't Autozone's fault. I didn't step on the lugs, and I demanded my money back ($30) and they refused. So After hammering away at the rear drum for hours I finally got the rear drum off and replaced the studs that I went and got from Pepboys. Was just very confused about Autozone, would you say a problem like that is customer's fault or the store?
its not the customer's fault and i wouldnt say taht it would be autozone's fault as well. i would say that it would be the manufacturer of the lug nut's fault.
it's like going to gamestop and blaming them for your xbox for malfunctioning.
they would tell you to call microsoft and ask them for help.
so my advice to you is call up the people that made the lugs and ask them for a refund, and i am sorry to hear what happened.....
hope that answered something for you...hahahaha (just my two cents)
it's like going to gamestop and blaming them for your xbox for malfunctioning.
they would tell you to call microsoft and ask them for help.
so my advice to you is call up the people that made the lugs and ask them for a refund, and i am sorry to hear what happened.....
hope that answered something for you...hahahaha (just my two cents)
it shouldnt take you hours to get your drum off....
that sucks that tyhat happened to you...did you go with the stock length studs?
if I had to get new ones I would go with longer ones
that sucks that tyhat happened to you...did you go with the stock length studs?
if I had to get new ones I would go with longer ones
I ended up getting stock stud sizes, The rear drum just would not move with the hammer, eventually I just started giving it all hell and it popped off finally. Going to give the manufacturer a call today. I took some pics of the damage before I fixed it. I'll post em soon.
if you look at the rear drum there are 2 threaded holes
you can screw bolts into them to help get the drum off
also there should be an acess slot in the back of the brake plate..where you can adjust the rear shoes..much easier if you loosen them first..and do not keep you emergency brake on
you can screw bolts into them to help get the drum off
also there should be an acess slot in the back of the brake plate..where you can adjust the rear shoes..much easier if you loosen them first..and do not keep you emergency brake on
this can be from several factors.
is always importinat to properly torq the lub nuts.
i think the xB is only like 80 ftlbs
any time you take them off clean them out befor putting them back on
is always importinat to properly torq the lub nuts.
i think the xB is only like 80 ftlbs
any time you take them off clean them out befor putting them back on
Gorilla Lugs are about 1/4 the price of Ray's and work just as well. I'm not paying more for lugs then I did for each rim.
Also, whenever you pull the lugs, this really helps them from rusting again:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ubricant_a.htm
Also, whenever you pull the lugs, this really helps them from rusting again:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ubricant_a.htm
Yeah, I don't go to tire shops to let them put the wheels on. I bring them in off vehicle, less chance of them scratching them that way.
As for the anti-sieze, one bottle is a lifetime supply. My dad has been working on cars since 1968 and I swear he's used the same jar of it since then. The lettering is worn completely off but there's still stuff in it.
As for the anti-sieze, one bottle is a lifetime supply. My dad has been working on cars since 1968 and I swear he's used the same jar of it since then. The lettering is worn completely off but there's still stuff in it.
Originally Posted by swartzautoman
this can be from several factors.
is always importinat to properly torq the lub nuts.
i think the xB is only like 80 ftlbs
any time you take them off clean them out befor putting them back on
is always importinat to properly torq the lub nuts.
i think the xB is only like 80 ftlbs
any time you take them off clean them out befor putting them back on
Originally Posted by Sciond
Originally Posted by swartzautoman
this can be from several factors.
is always importinat to properly torq the lub nuts.
i think the xB is only like 80 ftlbs
any time you take them off clean them out befor putting them back on
is always importinat to properly torq the lub nuts.
i think the xB is only like 80 ftlbs
any time you take them off clean them out befor putting them back on
Rays are also the really light ones, I think.
I'd like to have them.
Are you people closed nutted or open?
I need open lug because of the wheel cap that goes over the lug nuts.
SPLINE seems very nice, too.
I'd like to have them.
Are you people closed nutted or open?
I need open lug because of the wheel cap that goes over the lug nuts.
SPLINE seems very nice, too.
Originally Posted by Sciond
a good reason to spend for Rays...
Rays lugs + Stock wheels = incorrect seating
To the OP, i think i met you at the Circuit city meet right?
You had the white box with the spacers?
I've got the camo box on sleds
If you ever need any help or whatever hit me up
Originally Posted by TypeX
Originally Posted by Sciond
a good reason to spend for Rays...
Rays lugs + Stock wheels = incorrect seating
To the OP, i think i met you at the Circuit city meet right?
You had the white box with the spacers?
I've got the camo box on sleds
If you ever need any help or whatever hit me up







