Any write-ups on replacing/cleaning/adjusting the rear shoes. I had my xb in the dealership yesterday and they recommeded cleaning and adjusting. I search on here and no write ups. I did find that you need a 8mmx1mm bolt to get the drum off. Do you always need to thread a bolt in to remove? I always used a hammer on my 66 mustang until it got loose and just pulled it off. Looking for some advice.

 

that bolt makes it way way way easier to remove the drum way easier then the hammer you just need two bolts (just make sure your parking/e-brake is off)

its pretty much the same drum brake set up in any car as it is anyways...

 

Pretty easy to do! I need to do mine cause everytime I push and release the brake pedal, I get a squeaking sound coming from the shoes...

 

Don't be a girly man and use the hammer! In the time you waste to find a bolt and thread it in one side, I'll have both drum covers off.

There's an adjuster in the middle, you can access it from behind the backing plate (after you remove the rubber cover), that way you can adjust the drums with the cover and even the wheel still on.

 

3rd post ever? maybe...haven't looked..might be first. anyways...

my xb has been squeaking for MONTHS and i'm just about to lose my mind. I have taken them apart numerous times...initially brake parts cleaner took care of it but after 30 miles of city driving it would come back...now parts cleaner doesn't help. Does anybody know where to lube the drums exactly. I've honestly never worked on any drums in all my cars since they don't seem to wear much.... and I almost always park my car in gear. I read somewhere that you can use a silicone based lubricant and not petroleum but would like some pointers if anybody has any.

Worth noting, I saw some spots that looked like they were worn where the shoe rubs the inside of the drum(towards the inside of the car) so I was going to lube that next time i took it apart.

Also note, I attempted to use a hammer the first time i removed mine...yikes! I found a bolt in my garage that fit the bill and it took some wrenching...sounded like the two pieces of metal were certainly fused together as there were numerous loud pops. Find a bolt that fits!...it'll be worth it.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

Just dont over adjust the pad tensioner. It will warp the drum. I found out the hard way....such a noob.

 

after hosing off all the parts I did manage to use some antiseize near the top of the shoe where it looked to be rubbing...no dice. It did seem to remedy it briefly but it came back...tried the other side(very hard to hear where it is actually coming from(obviously))...remedied it briefly but again returned. Any suggestions...I took a picture of the spot that wasn't it if anybody wants to see!

 

post the pics anyways...

 

I am dreading doing this....

 

i'll be looking forward to mine when they need it

 

Did you scuff the face of the pads before you re-assembled it? Sand the face of the pads to break the glaze and see if that helps. Any grit coarser than 220 should work, you just want to get rid of the shiny surface.

Also another tip, put a *thin* layer of anti-seize on the hub where it contacts the drum, it keeps the drum from rusting to the hub and makes remove much easier. You can do the same for the rotors up front. Makes remove next time a snap. Just remember to use as little as possible so it doesn't end up everywhere inside the drum.

 

tks man....the upside for me is I am getting my money's worth...