I was playing with my switches when the front driver side strut just collapsed. Whenever I hold the switch up to raise that side up it would not budge and you could hear air coming out. I waited about 10 min. and moved the car back then it was back to normal.
I just got this suspension and this problem is making me regret going on air…lol

Do you guys know what happened?

 

I have the sameones and no problem with mine. One thing does come to mind the grounding bolt that comes from under the hood and comes out in the strut tower, did you grind it down? Might want to check the strut out to see if it was rubing on it.

 

My bet is your running a Cheapo Plexiglass switch box. I'll bet when you were playing around one of the switches got stuck in a down or dump postion. So when you hit a lift switch, the air just dumped right out the dump valve. When the you went back 10 mins later it had fliped back to normal like it should have to start with. So then it would work fine.

I had this happen a couple of time when I had one of those cheapo 35$ switch boxes.

 

Here's something else to consider:
I was messing around with my front air struts (easy streets) when I was changing out the stock top hats for the cusco camber plates. I inflated the front struts so I could get the jack under my car and loosen the threaded strut rod that attaches to the plates inside the engine compartment. But before I started cranking on the nut, I was jacking the car up and as I did so I heard the air from the strut on the side I was jacking up come rushing out. I thought I had screwed something up BIG time like blowing out or ripping the bag, so I got to looking around at the strut and there is some sort thin rubberized bushing on top of the strut that is held into place by a washer which is then held in place by something else (I can't remember now what it was). But basically it appears that the thin rubberized washer is some sort of pressure release system maybe that allows the air in the strut to release if the bag is extended too far. I extended the strut beyond it's capacity (or so it appears) and the pressure holding the rubber washer was lessened and the air came out of a hole underneath the washer.

To sum it up, I tested this theory again and had the same results. So, when I tightened things back up and did not raise the car with the bag fully inflated, I have not had the problem happen again and I've driven it over 8 hours since then with no problems or leaks.

 

spider13: yes I am running the plexi glass switch boxes and that sounds like thats what might have happened to me...lol...I almost had a HEART ATTACK....

 

Spider13 and Storm13 both made good observations. I would put my money on the switch box first. Those things are notorious for having bad wiring. And believe it or not, the quality control has improved. I remember when I first got into air suspension, there was no question what you did when you got the switchbox. Before even testing it you would just pull it apart and rewire the entire box.

As far as bleeding off excess air from the strut, I can't say for sure on Easystrteet's design. I haven't done enough research on their strut design and how it has been engineered. I know that with other air strut designs o-rings are used to create a seal between the strut shaft and the air bellows. O-rings are wonderful little creatures in that if properly engineered, the higher the pressure the better they seal. Until they rupture of course. Looking at some of the airlift struts though, I am not sure if that is how their struts are designed.

I suppose once I have the chance to get my hands on a set of the Airlift struts I could give a better answer.

 

My problem was never with the wiring. It was with the cheap little switches. The pole would stick in one postion. This was very true on switches I didn't use often, like side to side.

Beisdes that POS was heavy and scratched everything it touched. As well as really it started to wear my passenger seat where it layed all the time. I traded up to a little AVS box. and never looked back. I am should have spent the extra cash from the get go and would have been alot happier.

 

I bought the 7 switch AVS switchbox right off the bat and have had zero problems with it. It also fits nicely on the front of the upright of the armrest (with velcro of course) and stays hidden and out of the way down there as I can run the big wire from the switchbox underneath the seat, too.

 

Stupid me, I was so close to buying the 7 switch AVS but I bought the 10 switch plexiglass one just to save a couple of bucks....I would have had a problem free air suspension..lol...

I'll be taking pictures of my car today...I'll try to have em up tonight aroud 11pm...

 

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Easystreet's front struts use an O ring to seal the bag together. If you jack the car up there is a good chance it will lose pressure since there is no load place on the front when its lifted. EAI's air cylinders worked the same way on my car when I had them.

 

one photo above is of my XB at full drop...The front can got lower but the bumper and fender gets in the way..any sugestions other then getting new wheels or tires??

I want to be able to roll when the front is droped...

 

27300man: Your setup looks damn nice. What rear shocks are you running? Yours drops lower in the rear than mine and I'm running the stock shocks.

 

Thanks. I'm using Monroe 5870 rear shocks/ FBI brackets & Slam Specailties bags.
I like my rear setup alot, I'm just concerned about the front...
Do you have aproblem with the front not tucking?

 

That settles it then, looks like I'm picking up the 5870's. You and I are running the very same air ride setup in the back and yours looks awesome with the 5870's.

As for the front, I had serious problems with it not tucking until I put on the cusco camber plates and then had it aligned. Plus, I cut out just a little bit of the plastic inner fender lining, but there's one tiny spot that still hits a little bit when I slam the front. It's the point where the metal fender and the plastic front bumper/skirt come together in at the fenderwell: there's a square plastic joint that one of the bolts screws in to that I couldn't remove as it holds the pieces in place. Other than that, the front slams great and even with rubbing in that one spot, it's a slight rub only. Of course I can't drive with it slammed, but I can drive with it pretty damn low.