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Need some tips on how to get the factory steel wheels off!

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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 06:47 PM
  #1  
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Default Need some tips on how to get the factory steel wheels off!

All my wheels on my Xb are "frozen" to the hubs. Couple of tire shops tried to get them off but gave up. Perhaps it's due to the corrosion of the wheels and hubs. Any suggestions??
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 06:49 PM
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beat around the outside of the rim with a big hammer hit on opposite sides of the wheel shold eventually come off.. kinda like drum brakes after not being touched forever
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 07:03 PM
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You may also want to put some penetrating oil onthe base of the lugnuts and if possible around the rear edge of the rim where it contacts the hubs.
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 07:21 PM
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here is a last resort only option. loosen lugnuts so they arnt touching the rim but still threaded on. turn the wheel to full lock, rock back and forth drive-reverse IN YOUR DRIVEWAY until the wheel pops. You will have to rock it pretty hard, works real well on rwd, fwd takes a little more effort. Like i said, only do this as a last resort.
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 07:50 PM
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WD40 dowse the nuts in that stuff. I had rims on my 54 suburban that have been on there untouched for 30 years. bit of that, they came off with minimal after damage.
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 08:05 PM
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second the wd40
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 08:08 PM
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I say kick em!



~Stephanie
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 08:13 PM
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Thanks eveyone! I think I will have to use a combination of all... WD40, penetration oil, brute strength, and some hammering.
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 08:13 PM
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Thanks eveyone! I think I will have to use a combination of all... WD40, penetration oil, brute strength, and some hammering.
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 08:20 PM
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pb blaster is the best penetrant of all time. 10 times better then wd40. Get it at advanced auto, napa w/e. We buy it by the pallet where i work. If pb blaster doesnt remove it we hot wrench it off (cut it with the torch) When spraying on penetrants tap it with a hammer or something, the vibrations cause it to work into cracks better and let it sit overnight then try again.
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 09:09 PM
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X2 on PB Blaster.
The other thing I would recommend is having some spray parts cleaner around incase you get penetrating oil on the lugs.
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 10:48 PM
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PB blaster is good stuff. Once they're off, use spray solvent to get rid of the oil, wire brush the mating surfaces, use some spray anti-sieze on the mating surfaces before putting them back on... if you put anti-sieze on the stud threads, it won't hurt a thing...
Old Feb 26, 2007 | 03:05 PM
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WD40 and a BIG HAMMER
Old Feb 27, 2007 | 03:07 AM
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try using PB scrap some of the guck off and if that doesnt work then use a big rubber hammer haha
Old Feb 28, 2007 | 01:57 AM
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Everyone is right on here. Just make sure you have the vehicle properly supported before you starting whailing away at it with a big mallet. We don't want to loose a SL member.

Also, is anyone else somewhat puzzled that tire shops gave up? If the professionals won't touch it, they either suck or there is more to this story.
Old Feb 28, 2007 | 05:10 PM
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Pb and a BFH rubber mallett
Old Feb 28, 2007 | 05:54 PM
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pb blaster is the only real choice......if you think the wheels are bad, weight until you have to pull your rotors.
Old Mar 1, 2007 | 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by cyclman68

Also, is anyone else somewhat puzzled that tire shops gave up? If the professionals won't touch it, they either suck or there is more to this story.

A very good question. Are you running stock tires/wheels - aftermarket tires/wheels -
live in a very cold climate? Something does sound a little odd. Did you go to a Mom & Pop
shop or a reputable tire dealer?
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