Brake Pad Change (No Pics)
 

tC Brake Pad Change
Very easy, absolutely DIY, no special tools or skills required. Kudos to TOYOTA for making it so easy...
Remember that real car enthusiasts always change pads themselves to ensure on of the most critical components of your car operates properly....

Tools required:
14mm socket wrench(for front wheels)
17mm socket wrench (for rear wheels)
C-clamp or Caliper piston tool

Steps:
1. Remove the wheel completely (follow car's manual)
2. Locate two large bolts on the back of caliper
3. This step is different for the front and rear wheels:
FRONT wheels: Using 14mm socket remove ONLY the UPPER bolt
REAR wheels: Using the 17mm socket remove ONLY the LOWER bolt
4. Swing the inner part of the caliper out to expose the pads
5. Using a C-clamp SLOWLY (single turn every 15 secs) push the pad (and the piston underneath it) in until the piston is almost flush with its housing
6. Note the position of pads
7. Remove the pads (two per wheel)
8. Install new pads, make sure their friction surfaces face THE ROTOR
9. Swing the caliper back in
10. Reinstall the bolt removed in step 3, tighten by HAND
11. Reinstall the wheel (follow car's manual)
12. Follow the bedding/brake-in process as outlined by the manufacturer of the pads and/or avoid hard braking for the first 100 miles

NOTE: The front pads have the same exact specs as CELICA GT-S, the rear as LEXUS ES300 and COROLLA

Great instructions, didnt realize it was that easy.....Why not in the tech articles though????

I believe it's 25ft.lb. for those who have a torque wrench.

I would say do not over do it or the next brake change will be a real pain in the...

Now - you're doing this while the brake line is still connected, right?

hmm interesting....

Im actually gonna be changing my brakes soon and this will be handy!

Correct, you don't need to do this to change the pads. To rebuild or change a caliper, yes. Do not disconnect the brake lines unless you plan on bleeding the brakes afterwards...

I gotta change my brake lines too that's why I was wondering...

... now how hard is it to change the rotors?

Not hard at all.

All you have to do is:

1. Remove the other bolt on the caliper
2. Slide the caliper off
3. Suspend the the caliper with some wire and hang it on the springs up top. Don't let the brake line and caliper just dangle.
4. Remove the bolts from the caliper mount.
5. Slide off the mount.
6. Slide off the rotor, which might take a little bit of force due to rusting.

When changing brakes when is it necessary to change and/or cut your rotors?

I'm thinking about buying all 4 rotors from rotorpros.com

What brake pads do you recommend for low brake dust? Also can you tell me where I can get them and what model they are??

when you change pads, its NOT always necessary to change the rotor. u can usually change the rotor every other pad change. but it also depends on your preference. my two cents.

I have the Stoptech Stage II Kit - rotors and pads and brake lines.

I figure I can do the rotors and pads myself and then have my friend help me with the brake lines and bleeding.

Low dust pads? Go wtih Axxis Deluxe Plus. They're organic compound pads with very low dust and long life.

Where can I get a C-Clamp?

Nice writeup, very useful...but I too would like to know where to get a c clamp. Is this a common item that can be found in the local car parts place?

tried to change my pads.. but i couldn't.. the top bolt is way too tight...

If the top bolt is too tight slip a metal pole over the handle of the socket wrench and gently use it to apply more leverage to loosen the bolt. The C-clamp can be found at any store that sells tools like SEARS. I use to work there as a mechanic.

im just scared of stripping the bolt.. is there anything else i can use besides a pole?

Maybe a torque wrench in reverse? just a thought...

Never use a torque wrench as normal socket-wrench... they're precision pieces of equipment.

You won't strip the bolt if you apply more pressure. Just make sure the socket is seated properly.