Brake Pad Change (No Pics)
#61
one more thing - some people are saying that you dont need to take both bolts off the caliper - I would take both off so you dont have to pull on the brake line to get the pad off. ...thats just my 2c
#62
kinda hard to answer, but is there any method to tightening the bolts if you don't own a torque wrench...i hate to have to buy one for this...i might be able to borrow one.
i say this, because in the past i've heard people say to tighten then till snug, then turn it another half turn...
also, after driving on the freshly torqued bolts, should you retighten them?
maybe i'm just hearing old man suggestions
i say this, because in the past i've heard people say to tighten then till snug, then turn it another half turn...
also, after driving on the freshly torqued bolts, should you retighten them?
maybe i'm just hearing old man suggestions
#63
well - i used my torque wrench for my tires. ....thats why i broke the bolt. that wrench gives you so much leverage that it just snapped the bolt because it was just sooo easy to do. Im saying this because it would be a good idea for you to get a torque wrench for the future. You can use it on your struts, wheels, and now brakes.
And yes - wheels and struts its a good idea to retorque after a few days just to make sure things are ok. I got my wrench on sale at sears for $50 and I think the original price was $75. I wasnt about to spend 200 on something (like you) that im prob going to use very rarely.
And yes - wheels and struts its a good idea to retorque after a few days just to make sure things are ok. I got my wrench on sale at sears for $50 and I think the original price was $75. I wasnt about to spend 200 on something (like you) that im prob going to use very rarely.
#66
Quick question guys, I've been informed that putting the axxis ultimates (ceramic pads) on slotted rotors is not recommended as they are too rough on the slotted rotors surface.
Also, are there axxis ultimates for the rear? if not, can someone maybe give a recommendation for the rear?
For those of you who are just replacing the front brakes, I am assuming that you are not putting in new rotors or anything. I figure it'd look stupid to have two slotted rotors in the front and regular in the back lol.
Also, are there axxis ultimates for the rear? if not, can someone maybe give a recommendation for the rear?
For those of you who are just replacing the front brakes, I am assuming that you are not putting in new rotors or anything. I figure it'd look stupid to have two slotted rotors in the front and regular in the back lol.
#67
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I have the axxis ultimates on the front and rear... with slotted rotors... Yes, they make the rear pads for the tC too.
Who told you that it's not recommended? It's what StopTech gives you with the stage 2 brake upgrade kit.
Who told you that it's not recommended? It's what StopTech gives you with the stage 2 brake upgrade kit.
#68
ceramic is softer than any semi metallic pad...
just a note for the future... it is a good idea to have the brake system flushed everytime you do your brakes... not matter how careful you are moisture still gets in the fluid... it is a good idea to turn the rotors.. but if you can't use a pad and scuff it up... then go through the break in period again... ceramic and ceramic blend pad make the least amount of brake dust and noise.. remember to get some anti squeak gel or spray and get some lube for the bolts..
just a note for the future... it is a good idea to have the brake system flushed everytime you do your brakes... not matter how careful you are moisture still gets in the fluid... it is a good idea to turn the rotors.. but if you can't use a pad and scuff it up... then go through the break in period again... ceramic and ceramic blend pad make the least amount of brake dust and noise.. remember to get some anti squeak gel or spray and get some lube for the bolts..
#69
Originally Posted by krdshrk
I have the axxis ultimates on the front and rear... with slotted rotors... Yes, they make the rear pads for the tC too.
Who told you that it's not recommended? It's what StopTech gives you with the stage 2 brake upgrade kit.
Who told you that it's not recommended? It's what StopTech gives you with the stage 2 brake upgrade kit.
"Ceramics are really harsh and should only be used with blank rotors. However, to be honest with you, I do not recommend them at all. The thing with ceramics is that they wear down your rotors faster than normal and eventually cause warping. Sure they create less dust but I don't really think it's worth it, if they lessen the life of your rotors.
You want your rotors to wear down your pads not vice-versa. The Posi Quiet Extended wear is all you will need. We sell this set up for everything."
#72
Originally Posted by krdshrk
I trust stoptech's judgement on their brake kit.
#75
How relevant do you all think the brake fluid is performance-wise. Will putting in top quality fluid make a nice difference in braking power? What can you all tell me about the fluid?
#76
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The main difference with brake fluid is the boiling point. Higher performance brake fluid has a higher boiling point, which means less brake fade when the brakes are being used heavily and everything's getting very hot.
#78
Originally Posted by vaccaro
Originally Posted by roflitzjinno
definately wouldve been helpful with pictures.
#79
Thank you for the helpful post. I would like to ask the original poster to edit the first post to avoid problems. Without the changes, the procedure could cause damage and potential accidents.
#1 Add to list of tools a14mm open end wrench.
#2 Add instruction. While holding slider nut on inside of caliper with 14mm open end wrench, loosen caliper mounting bolts
#3 Add instruction. Tighten caliper mounting to 25 ft/lbs of torque.
The reason I suggest this is in case anyone just reads the first post.
Again, thanks for the helpful starting point. It is one of the easiest brake jobs I have ever done. Unless rotors need turning, it could easily be a ten minute job.
Oldman2
#1 Add to list of tools a14mm open end wrench.
#2 Add instruction. While holding slider nut on inside of caliper with 14mm open end wrench, loosen caliper mounting bolts
#3 Add instruction. Tighten caliper mounting to 25 ft/lbs of torque.
The reason I suggest this is in case anyone just reads the first post.
Again, thanks for the helpful starting point. It is one of the easiest brake jobs I have ever done. Unless rotors need turning, it could easily be a ten minute job.
Oldman2
#80
Originally Posted by oldman2
#3 Add instruction. Tighten caliper mounting to 25 ft/lbs of torque.