Hopefully this helps somebody out there. Once you get to the actual speaker your on your own.

Tools Needed:
1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
Flathead Scredriver
Your fingernail

Est Time:
10 Minutes at most

Step 1-- Start by prying off this door handle cover with your fingernail. Start at the top and work your way down. It does not take alot of force to get off.


Step 2-- Once you get the door handle off there are 2 Phillip screws holding the door handle in place.
One at the top


And one at the bottom.


Step 3 -- Move up to where the actual door lock is. With a flathead screwdriver pull the tab back. Once its pulled back unscrew with Phillips Screwdriver.


Step 4-- Thats all the screws now its time for the clips. Start at the far bottom of the front door. Just pull and work your way down. Theres probably about 15-20 clips. They pop out very easy and go back easy as well.


Step 5-- Disconnect the 2 power window/lock harnesses on backside of door.

What it looks like with the door panel off.


A look at the speaker.




Heres a look at all the clips.

 

Excellent.

 

Thanks so much, gonna be replacing my speakers sometime this week. Now I just need a write up on the back panels for the rear speakers

 

I probably will do the back sometime near the end of this month. I just have to see what i'm gonna do with the whole riveted speaker in the front. Probably gonna make an MDF plate.

 

Good job! I moved it into the FAQ area...it's even better than a sticky!

 

That's one nice looking Stocky. My tC's plans will be built towards SQ, so this post will definitely help for the replacement of the speakers.

 

You are a GANGSTER!!!! thank you so much for this as i am going to be amping aftermarrkets in the doors... help me out homie, let me know wuts up w the rear panels, cus i have to tap into the rear speakers for high level input to my amp for the subs, im keeping the factory deck thats why... also if you or anyone happens to run into the wiring diagrams.... again thank you , very good work..

 

thanks!

 

Hey, did anyone encounter some kind of safe mode when reconnecting the window and door lock switches? Both of my window switches blinked after I reconnected them and stayed that way until I played with them for a while, it wasn't like a loose wire it was a very consistent blink. And I guess this it is too late for me now, I had some major problems getting that little flip behind the latch off, I kinda ruined the plastic oh well, it's not that noticable. Got the speakers in, now I just gotta plug them in to see if they work wish me luck

 

it's a safety feature......to fix it......roll your window all the way up....and with the key on "on" hold the window switch to the up position for a few seconds.....

 

bump

 

What is the size of the front door speaker?? actually....what size speaker will fit in there???

 

5.25 in the front and the same in the back. I think you could also fit 6.5 in the back. I'm not too sure whats the monting debt is but the front is fairly small. Kinda hard to get any decent speakers to fit into the front.

 

The fronts are definitly not 5.25" I fit 6.5" Polks in it. I even made a cutout to bring them up to stock height, here's some pics.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/753640

 

I know this sounds like a stupid question, but how do you get
the speakers out?

 

I know this sounds like a stupid question, but how do you get
the speakers out?

 

how about help with removing a xB door panel

 

You have to use a drill to remove the rivets in the stock speakers. Attach the new speakers with nuts and bolts.

 

I have a few questions: What size are the speakers and where do you put the cross over? If i want to put dynomat on the doors I should remove all of that plastic right? ....then just dynomat the entire thing?

 

By the way.. to remove the door handle trim.. if you look carefully on the very bottom of the round thing, you will see an intentional little gap just big enough to fit like the blade of a knife in there and just gently pop it off it start it..


..and yes, to Dynomat, remove plastic barrier. Dynomat the whole thing after taking off wiring harness clips, then just poke holes in Dynomat to put clips back in. Just do it and you will see.. very easy.

Remember though, once you Dynomat the door, those foam blocks on the door panel won't go back in. The foam is very brittle and easy to cut.. I just took a kitchen knife and cut the blocks off where they were connected. The whole job really is not that hard to do.\

Also.. the BEST SPEAKER ADAPTORS in the world are from this guy:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=014

They are super high quality hybrid plastic type material, fit perfect, and are designed incredibly. Get a set and you will see.. I wouldn't even f with MDF..