good job..thanks
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my install was Piece of Cake. It was just putting the stock manifold back on and welding the o2 sensor in the bung (stripped threads) that was the PITA! ;}
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Originally Posted by Emo
just a question for you guys... if I decide to finally put my DC header in... and then to go my dealer.. will they freak out seeing it in there and possibly void my warranty?
-Emo |
Originally Posted by soGone
nice wrtie up. headers on... onto the cel problem....
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tHE 18MM SPRK PLG FOUL TRICK DOES NOT WORK AND I HAVE DC SPORT HEADERS, CEL STILL ONNNNNNNNNNN!
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USE THIS GUIDE FOR MMW HEADERS TOO
Just FYI for people that got the MMW header, this DIY guide works great for it too!! Only thing is that since the header must be broken apart in order to get the bottom part to the S-Pipe, it becomes a bit more difficult. Take the MMW header apart, follow this guide all the way through, then install the new S-pipe, put some exhaust paste between the header pieces (it's supposed to be a slip fit, snugs the metal in high heat, but it may still leak without it) and slide the bottom half of the header in place, then attach the bottom part of the header to the new S-Pipe. Unfortunately, the MMW headers didn't have directions and we just had to figure this out as we went. I actually have to take the bottom part apart to put the paste on it, so better you know now.
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WOW! this diy is very very good. props to kaeon*! nice
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well did my install over the weekend, did it to the last T and drove around about 120 miles and BAM CEL came on. just one thing i need to know. when i did everything i never disconnected the battary at all. could this be my problem.
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Originally Posted by acidnitr0
well did my install over the weekend, did it to the last T and drove around about 120 miles and BAM CEL came on. just one thing i need to know. when i did everything i never disconnected the battary at all. could this be my problem.
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Re: USE THIS GUIDE FOR MMW HEADERS TOO
Originally Posted by Rabid_Lemming
Just FYI for people that got the MMW header, this DIY guide works great for it too!! Only thing is that since the header must be broken apart in order to get the bottom part to the S-Pipe, it becomes a bit more difficult. Take the MMW header apart, follow this guide all the way through, then install the new S-pipe, put some exhaust paste between the header pieces (it's supposed to be a slip fit, snugs the metal in high heat, but it may still leak without it) and slide the bottom half of the header in place, then attach the bottom part of the header to the new S-Pipe. Unfortunately, the MMW headers didn't have directions and we just had to figure this out as we went. I actually have to take the bottom part apart to put the paste on it, so better you know now.
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Re: USE THIS GUIDE FOR MMW HEADERS TOO
Originally Posted by tC_skier
if your header slips on and off from each other this easily, then do it. when i did my mmw's though, they refused to come apart. called mmw and they said there's no need to take them apart, simply remove the radiator housing and if need be, pull back a few of the tranny fluid lines and you're good to go. worked for me.
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just went and had the code pull and it was BANK 1 below thresh hold
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o2 anit fouler theory
ok so we got some DC owners that say with the anitfouler that they get no cel light.
and we get some DC owners that DO GET the cel light.. after reading their cries for help it seems as if they all do the same work to fix the problem.. so here is my theory..and to make it valid it can only be applied to DC owners for accurate results... -how many DC owners using the anit fouler method have a cat back exhaust system... this is critical because obviously the cat back has less back pressure making for a less amount of volume of exhaust in the tubing. ...having no exhaust system and just having the header would have more compressed volume of gas in the tubing and there for the sensor sees more exhaust.... with this said....who with the DC header is getting the cel with and without and exhaust system...maybe that is a factor in the cel. |
megan header
umm... i just installed my megan 4-1 header and right away i didnt get a CEL... i went to work and exactly 30 miles into driving my CEL came on... i sorta expected this so i was ready with the anti-fouler thing... just put that on and its sitting with the battery cable disconnected to reset the ECU right now... mostly i am just crossing my fingers that this works... :nails: so yeah i'll let everyone know how it turns out.
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great post man thanx i just installed my DC Sport header and i drove around for a while and the CEL came on and i did this little anti fouler sim and it works great no CEL yet.
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drilling
Kaeon what drill bit did you use? the one i'm using is a pos. Never buy a blumol bit.
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posting to keep an eye on this. I just bought my dc headers and will be installing them soon. I have heard of people having a problem with removing the o2 but I have not read about that here... just the lower o2.
Ill have mine installed in a week, hopefully |
The last 12mm bolt (top left as looking at it) holding my stock header in refuses to move. The hammer 'trick' has resulted in a slightly rounder bolt and a lot of cursing. Any tips for getting this sucker off? Thanks.
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I just put in the antifouler today for my strup header (i had the same prob, drove approx 30 miles.. bam, CEL). I unplugged my batt for about 10 min (just cause i was doin other thigns) and now i dont have any CEL.. hopefully it sticks!!!
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Ya i did the Antifouler and there has been no CEL for about 500 miles great post man thanks.
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