I would desolder everything and solder it back

When you solder, just point the iron tip to the base, then put the solder in there and it will fill it up, I dont know how to explain it. But make sure you use thin solder

 

yea, when you are soldering pins, you want the "hershey kiss" look. Not the ball of solder, or glob of solder. Nice clean shiny hershey kiss...

 

^^ yep, perfect description. nice, concave solder joint.

 

yea, you can look at the stock solder connections to compare.

 

will these work?

http://www.eled.com/product.asp?cata...=EA3528RWC%2DJ

 

yeah, they look like the PLCC size LED

Actually, when I did mine, I bought the wrong LED, I used the 1206 instead of PLCC and it worked too

 

^^ yeah.. they look good to me.

 

yeah but are they too bright? 800 mcd too much?

 

hmm.. neah.

 

if they end up too bright, you can always crank down the intensity with the brightness adjustment dial thing in ur gauge. I think it's better to get the brightest LED u can get

 

Hey my girlfriend wants to do this to her car. Well she wants me to do it for her ha ha.

Anyway does anyone know a specific LED part # that would appear to be hot pink?

I know you can only order certain colors of the LED's but I was looking at a site that sold them with varying translucence on the actual LED "cover" creating a different color.

I just have no idea which will produce the most hot-pinkish color.

 

always with the pink..

you can try the pink leds available overseas... have seen them in and light up fine.. just not sure exactly how long the color's gonna last

 

My whites were 2000 mcd. You should be cool

 

Do you have any suggestions on how to desolder the LCD? I tried doing it one peg at a time but it did nothing. Is there a way to heat all the points up and slide the LCD out?

 

I didn't do it like that

it's very simple, just remove as much solder as you can, then wiggle each leg, they should be able to move around. If not, just take the desoldering braid, and cut it into a triagle tip like this ^ , then point the tip inside the hole of the leg and try to suck it up. If that still doesn't work, take the soldering iron and point to the leg and just push it lighty to one side

After I desolder the LCD, all I have to do is lift up the PCB board and the LCD screen fall right off, dont even have to apply any pressure at all to get it out.

 

Ok cool. Sounds like a plan for this weekend .. Thanks

 

Hmm, just make sure all the solder are clean, if you can desolder the LCD and solder all these LED and resistors and wire, I dont see how you can mess up the LCD. Use a magnifying glass and see if there's any solder touching both legs

I just hope that's the case, otherwise, it means that you f*cked up ur LCD while desoldering and soldering. Good luck

 

Yeah. I think there may be a small piece connecting 1-2 pegs b/c I tried to desolder a few pegs at a time by touching 2-3 of them with the iron trying to melt the solder but it didn't work. I think there may have been some solder stuck on the iron tip and I never noticed it contacting the two pegs. If it did end up messing up the LCD, oh well. I can still read it pretty good. If it gets to be a huge pain, I'll just go get another one from the factory. Is it the whole HVAC they sell or just the LCD and white mount?

 

If you desolder the first time, and it leaves solder down in the hole, it will be easier to add solder again, then desolder the leg. If you are really having problems using the wick, you can buy a heated desolder iron at radio shack for about $15 or so. That is an easy alternative as well. The trick is to take your time untill you can move all of the legs freely. You should be able to then let the LCD come out of the board without any force at all.

You have to buy the whole HVAC unit (about $500 from toyota) to replace the LCD. I reccomend finding one out of salvage (car-part.com) for $50 - $100 and taking the LCD from there if you damage yours.. much cheaper that way.

 

Sounds good. Thanks for the tips. I was just thinking of it and never used the wick on the reverse side of the board and desolder from the other side. I can't believe I never tried it. I'm a tard. If I desoler from the LCD side and suction from the reverse side, it will suck the solder out from the bottom leaving a clean hole. Damn.............gonna try maybe tonight now.........haha