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Transmission Assembly (Manual, 5spd)

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Transmission Assembly (Manual, 5spd)

Old 03-21-2010, 09:49 PM
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Default Transmission Assembly (Manual, 5spd)

Here is the follow up to my tC Manual Transmission Dis-assembly(https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=183344)...hopefully mod will move this to the tech section as well.

**First the transmission is a very complicated mechanical device, so working on it yourself is done at your own risk, there are precise tolerances that have to be kept or met when working on such a job**

I would say this is definitely a project for the very mechanically inclined, this also requires a few special tools to do this job right.

Tools Needed:
Inch Pound Dial Torque Wrench
10-120Ft lbs Torque Wrench
Gear Oil
Red Loctite
RTV Silcone Sealant/Gasket Maker
Bearing Grease
Rubber Hammer/Mallet
Punch or Flat Blade Screw Driver
12mm Socket
14mm Socket
24mm Socket
27mm Socket
30mm Socket
T45 Torx Bit
New output shaft rear nut

Optional Tools:
Snap Ring Pliers
Needle Nose Pliers
Vise Grips
Bench Grinder W/Wire Wheel
Die Grinder W/Wire Wheel
Harmonic Balancer Puller(Can be rented from Auto parts store)
34mm Socket

1) Clean the bell housing, and transmission case mating surfaces, I used my trusty die grinder w/wire wheel



Also would recommend cleaning up all the bolts, especially the thread surfaces...for this I used my bench grinder w/wire wheel

Before and after



2) Make sure everything inside is clean


3) First thing we need to do is to measure/adjust the preload on the output shaft bearing. To do this we install the output shaft in the transmission case



4) Then we install the bell housing, and the 14 12mm bolts on the outside and the 3 12mm bolts on the inside. Torque the 12mm bolts to 21 ft.lbs.





5)Time for parts bag No.1(Just like Legos)....lol


6) Install the output shaft rear bearing shim



7) Install the rear bearing retainer using the 7 T45 Torx screws, and torque them to 32 ft.lbs




Turn the output shaft and make sure it turns smoothly, then install the 30mm output shaft nut. Using your Inch Pound Dial Torque Wrench, and 30mm socket slowly turn the output shaft, when doing this also watch the dial on the torque wrench. What you are looking for is the force(torque) it takes for the output shaft to begin turning. The numbers should correspond with the followings specification:
New Bearing: 14.2 in.lbs
Used Bearing: 8.9 in.lbs

If the reading you get does not match very close to those numbers then you will need to change the output shaft rear bearing shim using the following guidelines:
If the value you got was less than the specification, then you need to add a thicker shim
If the value you got was more than the specification, then you need to add a thinner shim




The following are the part numbers for shims:
The preload of all the output shaft rear bearing shims varies in
torque from about 0.04 to 0.06 NVm (0.408 to 0.612 kgfVcm,
0.354 to 0.531 in.lbs).
Shim: mm (in.)
[table]Part No.|Thickness: mm (in.)| Mark
90564–59001|1.30 (0.0512)|0
90564–59002|1.35 (0.0531)|1
90564–59003|1.40 (0.0551)|2
90564–59004|1.45 (0.0571)|3
90564–59005|1.50 (0.0591)|4
90564–59006|1.55 (0.0610)|5
90564–59007|1.60 (0.0630)|6
90564–59008|1.65 (0.0650)|7
90564–59009|1.70 (0.0669)|8
90564–59010|1.75 (0.0689)|9
90564–59011|1.80 (0.0709)|A
90564–59012|1.85 (0.072|B
90564–59013|1.90 (0.074|C
90564–59014|1.95 (0.076|D
90564–59015|2.00 (0.0787)|E
90564–59016|2.05 (0.0807)|F
90564–59017|2.10 (0.0827)|G
90564–59018|2.15 (0.0846)|H
90564–59019|2.20 (0.0866)|J
90564–59020|2.25 (0.0886)|K
90564–59021|2.30 (0.0906)|L
90564–59022|2.35 (0.0925)|M
90564–59023|2.40 (0.0945)|N
90564–59024|2.45 (0.0965)|P
90564–59025|2.50 (0.0984)|Q
[/table]9) Remove the 30mm output shaft nut, 7 T45 Torx screws, rear bearing retainer, output shaft rear bearing shim, the 17 12mm bell housing bolts(14 on outside, 3 on inside), bell housing itself, and then the output shaft. This should leave you with an empty transmission case again

10) Its now time to adjust the differential preload.


11) Install the differential into the transmission case



12) Then we install the bell housing, and the 14 12mm bolts on the outside and the 3 12mm bolts on the inside. Torque the 12mm bolts to 21 ft.lbs





13) Using your Inch Pound Dial Torque Wrench, and the attachment used to turn the differential(either you can buy from Toyota, or make your own using an extension) slowly turn the differential, when doing this also watch the dial on the torque wrench. What you are looking for is the force(torque) it takes for the differential to begin turning. The numbers should correspond with the followings specification:
New Bearing: 14.2 in.lbs
Used Bearing: 8.9 in.lbs

If the reading you get does not match very close to those numbers then you will need to change the differential case rear shim using the following guidelines:
If the value you got was less than the specification, then you need to add a thicker shim
If the value you got was more than the specification, then you need to add a thinner shim, or you need to replace the differential bearing and race if no shim is already in place




The following are the part numbers for shims:
The preload of all the output shaft rear bearing shims varies in
torque from about 0.04 to 0.06 NVm (0.408 to 0.612 kgfVcm,
0.354 to 0.531 in.lbs).
Shim: mm (in.)[/b]
[table]Part No.|Thickness: mm (in.)| Mark
90564–56055|2.00 (0.0787)|0
90564–56056|2.05 (0.0807)|1
90564–56057|2.10 (0.0827)|2
90564–56058|2.15 (0.0846)|3
90564–56059|2.20 (0.0866)|4
90564–56060|2.25 (0.0886)|5
90564–56061|2.30 (0.0906)|6
90564–56062|2.35 (0.0925)|7
90564–56063|2.40 (0.0945)|8
90564–56064|2.45 (0.0965)|9
90564–56065|2.50 (0.0984)|A
90564–56066|2.55 (0.1004)|B
90564–56067|2.60 (0.1024)|C
90564–56068|2.65 (0.1043)|D
90564–56069|2.70 (0.1063)|E
90564–56070|2.75 (0.1083)|F
90564–56071|2.80 (0.1102)|G
90564–56072|2.85 (0.1122)|H
[/table]14) Remove the 17 12mm bell housing bolts(14 on outside, 3 on inside), bell housing itself, and then the differential. This should leave you with an empty transmission case again

15) Again make sure everything is clean, as its time to assemble


16) Make sure the transmission magnet is in place



17) Coat the differential bearing race with gear oil



1 Coat differential bearings, and mating surfaces with gear oil, and install differential



19) Apply gear oil to output shaft bearing race


20) Coat output shaft bearings and mating surfaces with gear oil



21) Install output shaft(you might have to lift up on the differential slightly to get the output shaft to fall into place)





22) Apply gear oil to input shaft bearing and mating surfaces



23) Install input shaft(you might have to tilt the output shaft slightly to get the input shaft to fall into place)



24) Make sure and coat slider surfaces with gear oil


25) Time for parts bag number 2!


26) Coat shift fork 2 sliding surfaces with gear oil



27) Install shift fork


2 Make sure the 2 snap rings, and reverse shift fork are now on shift fork shaft 3


29) Install shift fork shaft 3 into transmission(make sure all sliding surfaces are coated with gear oil)



30)Coat shift fork 1 sliding surfaces with gear oil



31) Install shift fork 1



32) Install shift fork shaft 2 into transmission(make sure all sliding surfaces are coated with gear oil)


**Make sure to install gear shift head after you pass shift fork shaft 2 through shift fork 2**


33) Install the 12mm bolts into shift fork 2, and gear shift head and torque to 18 ft.lbs





Here is where you should be at


34) Hopefully on dis-assembly you did not lose this next item(reverse shift fork roller), using a small magnet feed the reverse shift fork roller into the reverse shift fork




35) Make sure snap ring is on shift fork shaft 1, and coat all sliding surfaces with gear oil


36) Install shift fork shaft 1(you might have to pull up on shift fork shaft 3 to get this to fall into place)


37) Install 12mm bolt in shift fork 1 and torque to 18 ft.lbs



3 Time for parts bag 3, and reverse shift arm bracket



39) Install reverse shift arm bracket and the 2 12mm bolts, and torque to 13 ft.lbs





40) Coat reverse idler gear, and sliding surfaces with gear oil


41) Install reverse idler gear in transmission





42) Orient reverse idle gear as shown, that way when you put the idler gear shaft bolt in through the bell housing the holes will line up


Status Check here is what the transmission assembly should look like






43) Make sure transmission to bell housing mating surface is clean and free of gear oil as you will be apply a bead of RTV Silicon to it in the next step

44) Using RTV Silcone Sealant/Gasket Maker, apply a continuous bead around outside of transmission case the mates to bell housing



45) Carefully install bell housing, tapping it into place with rubber hammer/mallet



46) Install the 14 12mm bolts on the outside of bell housing and torque the 12mm bolts to 21 ft.lbs(you want to do this fairly quickly before the RTV has a chance to dry/cure)


47) Coat the 3 inside bell housing bolts with red loctite, install and torque to 21 ft.lbs





4 Install the 2 snap rings on the ends of shift fork shafts 1 & 2(the way I do this is I clamp the snap ring in my vise grips and then tap the end of the vise grips with hammer, that way the snap ring does not have a chance to fly away)





49) Apply red loctite to the 12mm reverse idler gear shaft bolt


50) Install 12mm reverse idler gear shaft bolt through bell housing hole and into reverse idler gear(this should screw in fairly easy, do not force it, take your time you do not want to strip this) Torque this bolt to 13 ft.lbs


51) Time to install rear bearing shaft snap ring. While you can use snap ring pliers for this...I found it just as easy to push the snap ring over the outside of the bearing, then lift up on the input shaft, and then using a small punch gentle tap the ring down, and it snaps right into place






52) Install the output shaft rear bearing shim



53) Put rear bearing retainer in place


54) Apply red loctite to the 7 T45 Torx screws, install these and torque them to 32 ft.lbs



55) Install driven 5th gear to the output shaft, I simply used a 34mm socket and using a rubber hammer/mallet tapped the gear into position





56) Coat the 5th gear caged needle bearings with gear oil and install on input shaft





57) Coat 5th gear with gear oil and install(this should slide into place and not require any tools)






5 Install transmission clutch hub(again you can use a harmonic balancer puller to do this but I used the 34mm socket and using a rubber hammer/mallet tapped the gear into position, when you do this make sure hold the assembly together or it will fall apart until it contacts 5th gear) Also make sure the fingers on the bottom of the synchronizer ring align to the holes in 5th gear






59) Install 5th gear shift fork and slider(make sure to coat shift fork slider surfaces, and slider itself with gear oil)




60) Apply red loctite to 5th gear shift fork 12mm bolt, install and torque to 18 ft.lbs




61) Install the clutch hub assembly snap ring






62) Now you need to lock the transmission so you can install/torque the output shaft nut, to do so use long pry bar and stick it into shifter opening and engage two gears(push up on the prong looking things) You will know if you have done this correct as you should not be able to turn the gears


63) Install new output shaft nut and torque to 90 ft.lbs



64) Using a punch stake(dent in) the output shaft rear nut at the cut out on the output shaft, this ensures the nut will not loosen




65) Clean the black transmission case cover, mating surface, and the mating surface on the transmission




66) Apply a continuous bead of RTV(I use the actual Toyota stuff FIPG 1281) to the transmission case cover mating surface




67) Install the case cover, and 10 12mm bolts case cover bolts. Torque the 10 12mm case cover bolts to 21ft.lbs(Install the case cover and torque the bolts within 10 minutes of applying the RTV)





6 Coat shift lever assembly with gear oil



69) Install shift lever assembly in transmission



70) Install the shift lever assembly cover



71) Apply red loctite to the 4 14mm shift lever assembly cover bolts, install them and torque to 15ft.lbs



72) Using 24mm socket install the transmission breather plug and torque to 36ft.lbs




73) Using 24mm socket install the lock ball assembly and torque to 21ft.lbs






74) Using 27mm socket install the backup light switch assembly and torque to 30ft.lbs





75) If you have had the transmission setting on its bell housing, it is best to now turn the transmission upright(like it would be setting in the car)

76) Time to install shift control lever


77) Install shift control lever, feed lock pin though the hole, install washer, and 12mm nut and torque to 57in.lbs(4.75ft.lbs)


7 Time to install selecting bell crank assembly



79) Apply red loctite to the 2 14mm bell crank assembly bolts, and loosely install one of them into bell crank assembly and transmission


80) Install the black bushing on bell crank assembly


81) Install the remaining 14mm bolt and torque both bolts to 15ft.lbs **make sure black bushing on bell crank assembly lines up with the shift control lever opening




82) Make sure the release fork support ball is clean, and lightly coat it with bearing grease




83) Time to install release fork assembly, throwout bearing, and fork boot



84) Install fork boot into transmission


85) Apply grease to input shaft throw out bearing retainer & inside of throw out bearing



86) Make sure shift fork is clean, and then assemble(if you took apart to clean). Apply small amount of grease to the area in the release lever where the release lever support ball will ride, then install release lever support ball retaining spring





87)
Install throw out bearing on release lever






8 Feed release lever through release fork boot, and align throwout bearing with input shaft



89) Slide throw out bearing over throwing bearing retainer and input shaft



90) Push hard on the bump on the release fork until you feel the release fork support ball retaining spring snap/push over the release fork support ball



91) The release shift fork should now slide smoothly over the throw out bearing retainer




Make sure the input shaft turns smoothly, and that you can shift through all the gears

And there you have it all done!!!

Last edited by j3st3r; 03-27-2010 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 03-21-2010, 11:34 PM
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Best write up ive seen on SL
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Old 03-22-2010, 12:56 AM
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Most detailed writeup online, better than the Toyota manual
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:10 PM
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Wow, thanks for taking the time to do this.
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Old 03-27-2010, 09:37 PM
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finished the install/DIY today!

Last edited by j3st3r; 03-27-2010 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 03-27-2010, 11:55 PM
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Very nice! I'll be keeping this in my favorites list for in the future, knowing how much transmission luck I have.
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Old 03-28-2010, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by juzlookzfazt View Post
Very nice! I'll be keeping this in my favorites list for in the future, knowing how much transmission luck I have.
This transmission is also for sale, original plan was to install the LSD in it...but I ended up finding a good deal on a trans that already had the LSD installed so don't really have a need for 2
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Old 03-30-2010, 07:01 PM
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awesome writeup man i will probably use this one day in the future, so thanks a ton. quick question, how much does the tranny weigh?
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Old 03-30-2010, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Laminate View Post
awesome writeup man i will probably use this one day in the future, so thanks a ton. quick question, how much does the tranny weigh?
Wet...trans is probably 90-100+lbs
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:03 AM
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wow thats hella work
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Old 05-27-2011, 02:54 AM
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J3st3r, first of all great write up, second, you have some big ones, i would never attempt to fully disassemble a transmission. and finally third, i have a clunking noise on my 5th gear and it only makes the noise when the gear spins, should the output shaft be this loose?

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=203515

Thanks.
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Old 05-27-2011, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by injector View Post
J3st3r, first of all great write up, second, you have some big ones, i would never attempt to fully disassemble a transmission. and finally third, i have a clunking noise on my 5th gear and it only makes the noise when the gear spins, should the output shaft be this loose?

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=203515

Thanks.
Thanks...I am actually now doing the LSD installs!!

I responded on the thread...That nut should absolutely not be loose, the gear is ok to spin but that nut should not be loose at all
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Old 11-17-2014, 01:36 AM
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This is an excellent writeup, and is a huge help for me.

One important note on the assembly, the factory service manual says to use Loctite 242 or equivalent. That is Blue loctite, not Red. I strongly recommend against using red, as is is intended for permanent installation and is very difficult to break loose later without using lots of heat. Unlike RTV, For Loctite red means high strength, not high temperature.
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Old 11-23-2014, 05:38 PM
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I replaced my clutch and now I have gear oil coming from the passenger side of the trans. I'm sure it's the seal buti can't find anything definitive part number wise. I'm going to call Toyota tomorrow. Any advice is appreciated.

Also, I have a small gap between the trans and the thin metal plate on the drive shafts on the passenger side. Should that be flush?
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:20 AM
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Fantastic wrote up! Keep up the good work
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:47 PM
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Just finished my LSD install into an E351, and this was immensely helpful. One point to note is on Step 58, it says to tap the Clutch hub assembly using a socket and a mallet. I would not recommend this. It is difficult to get on and the assembly falls apart so easily. Instead, go to an auto parts store and borrow a harmonic dampener installer tool. The M12 size adapter will thread right into the shaft, then you use a wrench in conjunction with the tools to press it onto the shaft. It's a little tough, but this is the proper method, and you don't risk trashing bearings with repeated impacts.

Can't wait to have this installed in a few weeks!
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Old 03-14-2016, 06:57 AM
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Is it just me or did all the photos disappear? They were here a few weeks ago ...I can also see pictures on other threads. /:
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Old 09-08-2016, 08:31 AM
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[Edit: So much for not botching my first post and looking like an idiot. bbsciontc saved the day and this great guide with a downloadable link to the guide WITH the images.(in the trans disassembly guide) Thank you!!]

Not just you, the photos show up as cute little kittens now. Which is really a bummer because this looks like a fantastic DIY guide and is just what I was looking for. Don't get me wrong, still has a lot of value even without the images.

Just lost use of 5th gear(pop out at any RPMs) and have been searching high and low for all information I could gather on this issue. Hoping to be able to do the repair myself and save $$$$.

Last edited by Shizzle; 09-08-2016 at 08:48 AM. Reason: Found da pix
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Old 12-07-2016, 03:21 AM
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is there a differential between spec and regular tc's? I recently blew a stock clutch and was having issues with synchros so i purchased a used, really low mileage trans. Now i am one wheel wonder..... any help would be awesome.
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Old 12-16-2016, 03:36 PM
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I'm not sure I understand your question. All tC's have open differentials. You have to take it apart to install an aftermarket limited slip differential like Quaife/TRD. Your stock one was the same, unless the previous owner installed one.
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