j3st3r

iTrader: (1)

**First the transmission is a very complicated mechanical device, so working on it yourself is done at your own risk, there are precise tolerances that have to be kept or met when working on such a job**

I would say this is definitely a project for the mechanically inclined, I did this by myself but would recommend having help......so here it goes

Tools Needed:
Harmonic Balancer Puller(Can be rented from Auto parts store)
Gear Puller(Can be rented from Auto parts store)
Rubber Hammer/Mallet
Regular Hammer
Punch or Flat Blade Screw Driver
1/2" Impact Gun
12mm Socket
14mm Socket
24mm Socket
27mm Socket
30mm Socket
12mm Wrench
T45 Torx Bit
Pry Bar(s)

Optional Tools:
Snap Ring Pliers
Needle Nose Pliers
Vise Grips
Zip Lock Bags

1) Drain the transmission....here is my make shift transmission crane for draining :-)



2) Remove the 10 12mm bolts that hold the black transmission case cover in place(removed in this picture, be careful to as there still may be fluid in there)


3) Remove the 2 14mm bolts that hold the selector bracket in place, and remove bracket



4) Remove the 12mm nut from the shift lever and tap the bolt out



5) Remove the 4 14mm bolts holding the shifter shaft cover in place


6) Remove cover and shifter






7) While it may not be entirely necessary I went ahead and removed the backup switch(27mm Socket), Breather(24mm Socket), and Lock Ball(24mm Socket)



Inside the opening that you just removed the shifter from you will see 2 forks, you will need push both of them up to lock the transmission(sorry I did not take a picture of this step but here is diagram). It should be easy to tell if you did this successfully as you should not be able to turn 5th gear when its locked(the only gears that should be visible at this point)



9) Using a punch or flat blade screw driver you will need to bend the crimped tab on the end of the 30mm nut on end of gear assembly


10) Once you have bent the tab out, now use your 1/2 impact gun and remove the 30mm nut


11) Tap out the snap ring holding the clutch hub assembly in place



12) Remove the 12mm bolt holding 5th gear shift fork in place


13) Attach the harmonic balancer puller(I rented mine from OReillys) to the gear assembly and carefully remove the clutch hub assembly on the top portion of the 5th gear assembly


***I CAN NOT EMPHASIZE THIS ENOUGH....Exercise EXTREME Caution When Removing the Gear Clutch Hub Assembly, It Will Disassemble EASILY and is a REAL PITA to Get Back Together, Especially by Yourself. If at All Possible Remove the Shift Fork and the Gear Clutch Hub Assembly Together***


14) You can then remove 5th gear shift fork(if you did not do it in step 13), and 5th gear with you hands, no pullers needed


15) On the input shaft(the shaft that held the gear you just removed in step 14) there will be a 2 piece caged needle bearing, remove it


16) What I did, to keep all the 5th gear assembly together was, I put the 2 piece caged needle bearing from step 15 in the bottom of 5th gear you removed from step 14, and then assembled the gear clutch hub assembly from step 13 the top of that same gear and taped it all together. This way it is all retained as it should be reinstalled


17) Using the gear puller remove 5th driven gear(the other gear that is still attached to trans)


1 Using a T45 Torx bit remove the 7 Torx screws holding the rear bearing retainer


19) Remove the rear bearing retainer, and bearing shim that is under it



20) Using snap ring pliers, or needle nose pliers remove the large retaining ring around the large bearing retainer



21) Remove the snap rings from the shift fork shafts, I attached a pair of vise grips to them, and then tapped the vise grips, that way the ring would not fly all over the place when it came loose



22) Remove the reverse idler gear shaft bolt from side of trans



23) Time to now remove the 12mm bell housing bolts, there are 14 on the outside and 3 on the inside of the bell housing



24) With the rubber mallet, and pry bars carefully remove the transmission case



25) Remove the reverse idler gear assembly



26) Using a 12mm open end wrench remove the 2 12mm bolts that hold the reverse shift arm bracket in place and remove bracket



27) Remove the 12mm bolt from 1st shift fork


2 Slide the longest shift fork shaft up, tap out the snap ring from the bottom of it, and then remove the shaft(Sorry again did not get a picture of this step)


29) Tap the snap ring back on to the shaft you just removed so it does not get lost


30) Remove the 12mm bolts from the other 2 shift forks


31) Remove the 2 remaining shift fork shafts(Would also recommend screwing the 12mm shift fork bolts back into the shafts again so they don't get lost




32) Remove shift forks



Status Check, this is what you should be looking at now


33) Time to remove the input shaft assembly, to do so tilt the shaft toward the differential and carefully remove



34) Remove the output shaft assembly pulling straight up



35) Remove the differential



36) Now if you were like me, you bagged/tagged and cleaned everything up so you are ready for assembly!

Some reasons why it costs so much to get transmissions worked on.....GOT PARTS!!








For those that have not seen a stock differential



Assembly Instructions Coming Next!!

yellowxhoodie

iTrader: (16)

awesome!

moved this to Tech and DIY.

Domo

iTrader: (3)

great read, cant wait to see the reassemble.

TCpete

looks like someones dif has seen its share of slamming into gears lol

mines looked exactly the same way... and yea this process is a ****... you followed toyos dis instructions pretty well sir... nice job!

im guessing your gona press in an LSD now?

have you ever thought about upgrading the final drive?

Thorium06

iTrader: (5)

this thread is full of win

j3st3r

iTrader: (1)

I have a whole new trans going in the car, and yes it has the LSD in it.

This trans I will be reassembling and then putting it up for sale, my plan was to disassemble this one and yes put the LSD in, but something came along I could not pass up.


This trans only has 9k miles on it...what are you seeing that that makes it looks like its been slammed into gear?

Koolguy

cant wait for the resemeble part. Then i can tackle putting LSD into my car.

Ace83

iTrader: (6)

nice DIY, one of the most complex there is..

Agent99

iTrader: (1)

Does the new trans your going to put in have a TRD LSD? Or another brand?

j3st3r

iTrader: (1)

It has TRD/Quaife

brett561tc

major props brian. huge diy!!!

j3st3r

iTrader: (1)

Thanks...just got done with the assembly, so should have that DIY posted tomorrow.

Joyride

i wish there was a assembly part =(

doh nvm https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=183553

j3st3r

iTrader: (1)

:-)

goukisama

What different would you have to to add the LSD?

j3st3r

iTrader: (1)

No difference

bbsciontc

Bringing this back from the dead, lol. I will shortly be tackling a Quaife LSD install and had a question about the disassembly. If all I'm doing is the LSD, can I stop at step 26 and the pull the input/output/shift fork assembly up and out as a whole? I understand that's how it works for Honda b series transmissions. Would like to avoid unnecessarily taking things apart. Thanks in advance.

bbsciontc

Crickets, huh? I guess all the OG's have moved on to bigger and better things. No problem, I'll post up on my experience in hopes that it will benefit someone in the future.

I'll be chipping away at this on a spare Camry E351 trans I picked up. So far I pulled the 5th gear clutch hub assembly. From my experience, I suggest the following:

-Remove the 5th gear shift fork and slider first. It just gets in the way
-Leave two gears in place from the 30mm nut removal step. You need some torque to get the hub off, and you'll never get there with the input shaft spinning.
-Use the residual oil on the gears/trans components to lubricate the threads of the puller. This will both make your life a bit easier, and protect the threads of the puller from galling. It took quite some effort (I used a cordless craftsman impact gun to slowly taking off by pulsing the trigger.
- What he says above about taking care to prevent the clutch hub assembly from disssassembling, is no joke. I wasn't quite sure how to do this, and by the time I got the hub halfway off, it was partially disassembled. In hindsight, my suggestion would be to hold the hub assembly together by pinching the lower brass ring and the top of the hub assembly as you slowly advance the puller (Looking at the image, there are 3 points where you can do this. With your free hand, make sure you support it at at least 2 of the points). The innards simply want to fall apart from gravity. Take your time and work slow. Since mine partially disassembled, I was able to compress the retaining spring on the lower brass ring by hand and squeeze it back into place. Please try to avoid having to do this!

More to come. Can't wait to get this together with my new Quaife LSD in the E351.

bbsciontc

Just cracked open the case this weekend. The snap rings on the shift fork shaft (Step 21) were a pain to remove. I couldn't find my vice grips anywhere! Tried the two screwdriver method suggested by the service manual, and that was terrible. Ended up using a snap ring expander to contact the two ends, then proceeded to hit with a rubber mallet. Finally got them off!

Case removal wasn't too bad, but there are not many good pry point on the case. Take your time hear, you don't want to mess up the seal. Once cracked open, it did not want to come up. I then noticed that the input shaft was trying to come up woth the case. Gently tapped the input shaft back down until it dropped back into place, and it came right off.

Coming next week: Input/output shaft removal, and Ring gear transfer to Quaife LSD!

zzz0ned

iTrader: (1)

Too bad that images are no longer available for this thread, would be very helpful for when I install my LSD.