DIY-04 xA /xB Front Wheel Bearings step by step
10-18-2011, 07:24 AM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 6
DIY-04 xA /xB Front Wheel Bearings step by step
Any interest on a photo step by step on this job? I am replacing both my front tomorrow morning. I know there isn't a write up here on this and it is quite costly if done at a dealer or shop.
Last edited by MR_LUV; 10-17-2017 at 02:35 PM.
10-27-2011, 08:26 AM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 6
DIY-04 xA Front Wheel Bearings step by step (Click on Link below for pics)
This job took me 2 ½ hours including the time to take pictures and to keep getting more tools. I had a lot of tools available to me that you may or may not have access to.
The auto shop on base had everything I needed so the majority of the work was done with air tools. So for starters lift the car in the air and remove the wheels.
Then remove the brake calipers, there are 2 bolts holding the piston part of the caliper. Remove those and set the pads aside. Remove the other 2 bolts holding the caliper to the spindle and secure the caliper out of the way.
Remove the rotor; you may need to smack it on the backside with a mallet to break it free. Mine was rusted on and I needed to thread 2 bolts into the small holes to break it free.
With the rotor off locate the outer tie rod and take the cotter pin off the bolt and remove the nut. This is a ball joint and will require you to either press it out or give it a good whack with a mallet to break it free.
On the bottom of the spindle, the lower control arm connects with a ball joint. Remove the cotter pin and nut and break the ball joint free.
Take the 2 nuts on the strut bolts off and leave the top bolt in until you are ready to remove the spindle.
VERY IMPORTANT take the ABS line off (this is a $200+ part to replace).
Remove the axle nut and hammer the axle through the spindle.
Now we can take the bolt out of the strut and pull the spindle off the car.
Remove the C clip from the bearing (needle nose pliers work well).
Position the spindle assembly on the press with the stud side down, use a socket to apply the pressure to the inner race of the bearing, and press the bearing out. This will separate the hub assembly from the spindle.
Place the hub assembly stud side down on the press and secure with a holding fixture. The fixture should fit snug around the bearing itself.
Use a socket to apply the pressure to the hub and press the hub out of the bearing.
Place the spindle on the press with the outboard side up. Put the inner race that was pressed off the hub over the exposed ball bearings. Then use a socket to apply pressure to the bearing and press the bearing out of the spindle.
You should be left with a bearing, hub, and spindle. Now it’s time to press in the new bearing. There is no need to grease the bearings at all and it will actually create problems if you grease them. Position the spindle on the press with the inboard side up.
Use a socket to apply the pressure to the outer rim on the bearing and press the bearing down until you feel it seat completely.
Install the C clip to the inboard side of the bearing.
Now place the hub, stud side down, onto the press. Set the spindle with bearing on top of the hub, inboard side up. Use a socket to apply the pressure to the inner race of the bearing and press the bearing and spindle onto the hub. Be careful not to go too far and blow the C clip out.
You should be left with a complete spindle/hub assembly. Use the same process for the other spindle/hub assembly. To re-install the spindle, seat the lower control arm stud and let the axle shaft slide into the hub. Use a pry bar if needed to apply downward force to the lower control arm to get the bolts through the strut. Be careful not to pull the inner axle shaft out of the inner CV joint. Secure the axle nut, lower control arm nut w/ cotter pin, and strut bolts. Seat the tie rod stud to the spindle and secure with the nut w/ cotter pin. Re-install the ABS line, rotor and brake caliper and pads. Put the wheels on and drop the car down. You shouldn’t need an alignment after this job.
Now take the car for a spin and enjoy the smooth quiet ride. I hope this will help anyone who attempts this job. Please use this as a guide and not a technical manual; every car will have its own slight differences.
*Link to Original Article w/ Photos HERE
This job took me 2 ½ hours including the time to take pictures and to keep getting more tools. I had a lot of tools available to me that you may or may not have access to.
The auto shop on base had everything I needed so the majority of the work was done with air tools. So for starters lift the car in the air and remove the wheels.
Then remove the brake calipers, there are 2 bolts holding the piston part of the caliper. Remove those and set the pads aside. Remove the other 2 bolts holding the caliper to the spindle and secure the caliper out of the way.
Remove the rotor; you may need to smack it on the backside with a mallet to break it free. Mine was rusted on and I needed to thread 2 bolts into the small holes to break it free.
With the rotor off locate the outer tie rod and take the cotter pin off the bolt and remove the nut. This is a ball joint and will require you to either press it out or give it a good whack with a mallet to break it free.
On the bottom of the spindle, the lower control arm connects with a ball joint. Remove the cotter pin and nut and break the ball joint free.
Take the 2 nuts on the strut bolts off and leave the top bolt in until you are ready to remove the spindle.
VERY IMPORTANT take the ABS line off (this is a $200+ part to replace).
Remove the axle nut and hammer the axle through the spindle.
Now we can take the bolt out of the strut and pull the spindle off the car.
Remove the C clip from the bearing (needle nose pliers work well).
Position the spindle assembly on the press with the stud side down, use a socket to apply the pressure to the inner race of the bearing, and press the bearing out. This will separate the hub assembly from the spindle.
Place the hub assembly stud side down on the press and secure with a holding fixture. The fixture should fit snug around the bearing itself.
Use a socket to apply the pressure to the hub and press the hub out of the bearing.
Place the spindle on the press with the outboard side up. Put the inner race that was pressed off the hub over the exposed ball bearings. Then use a socket to apply pressure to the bearing and press the bearing out of the spindle.
You should be left with a bearing, hub, and spindle. Now it’s time to press in the new bearing. There is no need to grease the bearings at all and it will actually create problems if you grease them. Position the spindle on the press with the inboard side up.
Use a socket to apply the pressure to the outer rim on the bearing and press the bearing down until you feel it seat completely.
Install the C clip to the inboard side of the bearing.
Now place the hub, stud side down, onto the press. Set the spindle with bearing on top of the hub, inboard side up. Use a socket to apply the pressure to the inner race of the bearing and press the bearing and spindle onto the hub. Be careful not to go too far and blow the C clip out.
You should be left with a complete spindle/hub assembly. Use the same process for the other spindle/hub assembly. To re-install the spindle, seat the lower control arm stud and let the axle shaft slide into the hub. Use a pry bar if needed to apply downward force to the lower control arm to get the bolts through the strut. Be careful not to pull the inner axle shaft out of the inner CV joint. Secure the axle nut, lower control arm nut w/ cotter pin, and strut bolts. Seat the tie rod stud to the spindle and secure with the nut w/ cotter pin. Re-install the ABS line, rotor and brake caliper and pads. Put the wheels on and drop the car down. You shouldn’t need an alignment after this job.
Now take the car for a spin and enjoy the smooth quiet ride. I hope this will help anyone who attempts this job. Please use this as a guide and not a technical manual; every car will have its own slight differences.
*Link to Original Article w/ Photos HERE
Last edited by MR_LUV; 10-17-2017 at 02:57 PM. Reason: *Link to Original Article w/ Photos
03-28-2014, 02:25 AM
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 33
I know it was a while ago, but thank you for the write-up. It's same as my Subaru. I've done that twice now and am looking to doing first on my xB (243,000 miles) front passenger side.
I do everything myself but press bearing out/in. I pay local shop $50 to do that. Also I break the axle nut loose before lifting wheel up all the way. that way no pressure on the axle into transmission. same when tightening to specs.
I do everything myself but press bearing out/in. I pay local shop $50 to do that. Also I break the axle nut loose before lifting wheel up all the way. that way no pressure on the axle into transmission. same when tightening to specs.
)
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