After jacking & removing the wheel, take a large screwdriver & slowly pry between the caliper & the leading edge of the rotor. This will compress the piston all the way back into the caliper so you can remove the caliper & change the rotor/pads. This is a "full floating" caliper design so when you pry, the caliper moves along some guide pins.




As you compress the pistons be sure to keep an eye on your brake fluid level. You may need to take a turkey baster or something to remove some of the excess fluid as the level rises.



Once the piston is compressed, remove the two 17mm caliper retaining bolts.




With the bolts removed use a piece of wire or something to suspend the caliper from the spring. Just don't let the caliper hang by its own weight - you might damage the hose!


At this point the rotor will simply pull off by hand. This is a good time to clean up that backing plate and get rid of that yellow paint mark left by the factory. I used Prep All to clean it and VHT brake paint (black) to refinish.





Now just slap on the new rotor.



Then, bolt the caliper back on. I was unsure of the torque specs & they were not that tight to begin with, so I torqued them to 80ftlbs.



To finish off - three coats of G2 Caliper paint!



Ain't they purty!?



PS- There are plenty of aftermarket rotors out there, but these were from Race Concepts. They're slotted & dimpled. You can find Race Concepts on the web & Ebay. They work GREAT!

 

test successful

 

Looks great. Did you repaint the whole backing plate, or just the top part where that yellow paint was? I think I'm gonna do that to mine, I have some high-temp black paint just laying around here...

 

I just repainted the whole thing since the VHT paint was gloss and the factory was satin.

Thanks!

 

Good work! How much that set you back? Oh, and (you may not know this), but is there a way to put discs on the back?

 

Looks good! Added to the tech section. I'll add it to the FAQ forum in a few days.

 

nice ...

 

nice job..well detailed

 

Very nice!!

You made it look fairly simple too.

Good write up!

-THE DON

 

Looks really good! I love all the details you hit like painting
the caliper on the way out.

Now we just need good rear disc brake setups for our cars!!!

 

The rotors were about 125 & the G2 paint about 30. All in all, a pretty inexpensive and easy mod to do.

Thanks everyone!

David -

PS - Haven't seen any rear disc's worth installing yet.

 

To put discs in the rear, you need to get a "kit" that sells for around anywhere of $650 to $980....This will give you rear discs with rotors...I have to save up or wait till they come down in $...

 

bump for a good install w/ pictures.

 

Very nicely done, one of my future things to do in the off season

 

looks sexy..the fuji likes.

 

Hi,

Do the new rotors increase brakin efficieny at all?? Did you also slap some new brake pads in there ??

Dave

 

There was a definate increase in braking power. I noticed it right away. I only have about 475 miles on the car, so I did not bother with changing the pads. When I do change them, I'll go with Hawke.

Thanks,
David -

PS - There's another benefit aside from performance & looks to consider when changing the rotors. I noticed that the stock rotors will rust around the hub area and when they get wet, like from washing, sometimes rusty water will leak out from the center cap area on your wheels and get messy. These rotors are zinc plated and I have not had this problem since.

 

fuji not only does that look sexy, but he can brake even better now.

 

Did the same thing same co. works great and looks awsome.

 

i tried the same thing that you did but im still having a hard time pulling my rotors of do i have to take that nut in the midlle.please i hope some one can help me out thank you.