Clock LED Modification
I want to change my clock to white... Can someone that has done white please tell me where i cen get the leds... i have searched all of the sites listed in this forum and cannot find any white 1106 or 1206's
Originally Posted by superfreestyle
I want to change my clock to white... Can someone that has done white please tell me where i cen get the leds... i have searched all of the sites listed in this forum and cannot find any white 1106 or 1206's
Originally Posted by trndmnky
Originally Posted by superfreestyle
I want to change my clock to white... Can someone that has done white please tell me where i cen get the leds... i have searched all of the sites listed in this forum and cannot find any white 1106 or 1206's
Do you have any pics? Are the 1206 not too bright. I thought what I needed was the 1106
Originally Posted by 2k5 BOP xB
Thanks for the reply.
Do you have any pics? Are the 1206 not too bright. I thought what I needed was the 1106
Do you have any pics? Are the 1206 not too bright. I thought what I needed was the 1106
I don't have any pictures, but I can tell you that they are slightly brighter than the speedometer. But it still looks acceptable. I am still trying to find brighter LED's for the Speedometer so they match. I am sure Digi-key sells the 1106's. You just need to search for them on the website.
Hey Ultra101, care to post some pics of your finished speedo with the LED's changed? I haven't had a chance to look into mine because priority issues but I might still like to do this one day.
Honestly, I don't want to make it sound easier than it is but if you use common sense and the right tools, it should come off with very little difficulty. Basically you wouldn't want to use a soldering gun on something this delicate, nor would you want to leave your soldering iron sitting on the circuit board for too long. There's a soldering tech article in the tech section, that should be a good starting point. And if you have soldered something like xbox's and PS2's, it's similar to an xbox LPC points, but no where as difficult as the d0 or PS2 points. IM or PM me if you have any questions, I'll be glad to help.
whats the best prices you have found for the leds I have a local shop i can get blue (usually more expensive) for 50 cents a pop
is any one is intereted i can order a few. he's backordered ATM but Im gonna buy like 20 to test them and see if they work well its the 1210's BTW ill keep you posted
is any one is intereted i can order a few. he's backordered ATM but Im gonna buy like 20 to test them and see if they work well its the 1210's BTW ill keep you posted
I'm not sure what are the best prices for these as I haven't looked in a long while. I paid $0.95 per LED for mine which I thought was average. I used the 1210 PLCC LED's and they worked fine. The only thing that you might want to look out for is the brightness and viewing angle. I think the PLCC's had more of a 90 degree veiwing angle and therefore concentrated more of the light forward whereas a chip type has a 120 degree veiwing angle and I think it'll look more diffused and evenly distributed.
If you do not have experience soldering surface mount parts to a board, I recommend you practice a few times before you attempt. You do not want to lift a pad or do any other damage.
If using solder wick, use a no clean variety and also use a no clean solder. Using fluxes or solder other than no clean such as water soluble or rosin will require cleaning and will cause corrosion if not cleaned properly.
I did this at work with a Hakko hot air pen and a microscope but a standard Hakko iron with a medium sized tip should work just fine.
If using solder wick, use a no clean variety and also use a no clean solder. Using fluxes or solder other than no clean such as water soluble or rosin will require cleaning and will cause corrosion if not cleaned properly.
I did this at work with a Hakko hot air pen and a microscope but a standard Hakko iron with a medium sized tip should work just fine.
When I did mine I used a 15 watt soldering iron and solder sucker. Tweezers are a good idea as well if you have them because those LEDs are so small. A friend is also useful to hold the board still and level while you solder.
Whatever you do don't use one of those cold iron solder things from radio shack, we tried one and not only was it too much for the board (burned it a little but no permanent damage) but the stupid cold iron melted and burned up, what a piece of crap.
Make sure you get your polarity right, mine turned out great...
Whatever you do don't use one of those cold iron solder things from radio shack, we tried one and not only was it too much for the board (burned it a little but no permanent damage) but the stupid cold iron melted and burned up, what a piece of crap.
Make sure you get your polarity right, mine turned out great...
Here's mine in green.


Sorry for the pic quality, but camera with flash off in one hand, turning key with arm twisted through steering wheel to catch the warning lights is a little tough.
The A/C controls are actually very even, and the 4 bright spots behind the clock are almost nonexistent.


Sorry for the pic quality, but camera with flash off in one hand, turning key with arm twisted through steering wheel to catch the warning lights is a little tough.
The A/C controls are actually very even, and the 4 bright spots behind the clock are almost nonexistent.
It's really not too bad with tiny tweezers and a magnifying visor thingy. It didn't take nearly as long as I thought it would.
The bad part is I had to do it twice. The first LED's I bought were a yellowish green so I had to change them for true green.
The bad part is I had to do it twice. The first LED's I bought were a yellowish green so I had to change them for true green.







